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Cielo

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My car dies now every time I start it cold unless I step on the gas a little and adjust my foot as needed. Well lately it's been needing more and more gas. And today after I "saved" it once again at crank up, I slid it into reverse and it died. Basically the problem is getting worse and I want to do a full tune up before it gets beyond my control as this is my daily and only car again (which sucks ass).

I looked on nico for all the right parts to do a tune up then went to nissan. at Nissan and I asked to order An o2 sensor. They said there's 2 and they both cost over 150 bucks. So which one do I get ?? Also I want to get the part that fixes my car most likely first since it looks like a tune up will cost about a grand. So any ideas whAt that would be? I'm thinking fuel pump since it dies every start up and maybe the suction is weak so it needs a push to complete the flow??? I feel clueless as fuck right now.

Please help
 
Just buy a bosh o2 from any local parts store. Like $35. This I would get plugs wires and distributor cap and rotor. And just do a pressure test for the fuel pump. If its not within spec then good time to just get a walbro. Frsports sells everything you need for $100.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Just buy a bosh o2 from any local parts store. Like $35. This I would get plugs wires and distributor cap and rotor. And just do a pressure test for the fuel pump. If its not within spec then good time to just get a walbro. Frsports sells everything you need for $100.
idk about no $100. but yeah i do have a list of random parts everyone says to change for a tune up. i already have plugs and wires. i keep hearing walbro's suck ass from all my friends. including someone who's the only one out of 4 that have had success with a walbro (3+ years so far). but i say no success yet, the oem one lasted 14 years, so no =/=.

never touched the IACV. although my throttle cable from the butterfly valve isn't tight, its slightly loose but i didn't wanna fuck it up so i never touched it.

so currently a typical tune up in my mind is this so far:

cap
rotor
motor oil ***
trans fluid
cooling fluid
wheel bearings
cv boots
all suspension bushings
all rubber hoses
spark plugs ***
spark plug wires ***
battery terminals ***
fuel pump
fuel filter
brake pads ***
tires ***
brake rotors
air filter
maf
oil filter ***

everything with *** next to it i already did.
what am i missing. ? I need to get the car to a condition to last me another 50,000 miles until next tune up without fail.

im VERY sure this is all gonna cost over $100 ^. hell, idk how to replace a wheelbearing, so labor goes into that cost.

I also have a problem changing the intake filter, its the filter my car came with since 97,000 miles (it is now 115,000), the thing it it was just stuck onto the end of the oem plastic tube and ziptied to a City mill piece of square metal with hoes drilled in it between the maf and filter, and its a random cone with no name and i can't find a replacement for it. personally i'd rather have an airbox but people like being F&F so im stuck with this piece of trash.

idk why people think cone filters are better, they are actually way worse than oem air boxes since they have no ram-effect like the oem ones and they suck in air from all directions, including the hot engine. less horsepower on NA, harder to replace, retarded...
 
idk about no $100. but yeah i do have a list of random parts everyone says to change for a tune up. i already have plugs and wires. i keep hearing walbro's suck ass from all my friends. including someone who's the only one out of 4 that have had success with a walbro (3+ years so far). but i say no success yet, the oem one lasted 14 years, so no =/=.
I was saying $100 for the fuel pump not a complete tune up. And I have had the exact opposite experience with walbro. Used them myslelf on 2 car with no issues and a bunch of my friends have them with no problems. Also I was under the impression of a engine tune up not the entire car.
 
Walbors burn out frequently when idiots run their tanks dry and get air in the system.

If you're complaining about your intake, go get a generic MAF adapter for the KA and be done with it.

And you really can't find a generic cone of the right size?
 
so currently a typical tune up in my mind is this so far:

cap
rotor
motor oil ***
trans fluid
cooling fluid
wheel bearings
cv boots
all suspension bushings
all rubber hoses
spark plugs ***
spark plug wires ***
battery terminals ***
fuel pump
fuel filter
brake pads ***
tires ***
brake rotors
air filter
maf
oil filter ***

everything with *** next to it i already did.
what am i missing. ? I need to get the car to a condition to last me another 50,000 miles until next tune up without fail.

im VERY sure this is all gonna cost over $100 ^.
Your basic tune-up items consist of the following:

Plugs
Wires
Cap & rotor
Air Filter

-- Changing the fuel filter is one of the most overdone, usekless tune-up items around. If the filter on your fuel pump is in place, there will hardly be anything for the filter to filter out downstream... The fuel filter before the rail is more of a fail-safe than an actual filter. Don't get me wrong, they DO get clogged; but not to the degree where they need to be changed every tune up.

I see you did your plugs & wires, but not the cap & rotor... I am also going to assume you didn't gap your plugs before you dropped them in. If the cap & rotor are old, no sense in running new plugs & wires. Before you go apeshit buying stuff you don't need, start by replacing the cap and rotor- you might be surprised.

All the other things are great things to do, but they are not tune-up items... If you are on a budget, then don't go fixing shit that ain't broke i.e. rubber hoses, wheel bearings, bushings etc. Your CV boots cover the CV joints on your rear axles and they rarely crack/break... The ones in front are your steering boots and they usually break down & crack (just FYI). Never hurts to flush out your coolant. If you have never done it, then it is a good thing to do for the next 50-60K miles. Changing your trans and diff fluids will definitely help too.


i keep hearing walbro's suck ass from all my friends. including someone who's the only one out of 4 that have had success with a walbro (3+ years so far). but i say no success yet, the oem one lasted 14 years, so no =/=.

I also have a problem changing the intake filter, its the filter my car came with since 97,000 miles (it is now 115,000), the thing it it was just stuck onto the end of the oem plastic tube and ziptied to a City mill piece of square metal with hoes drilled in it between the maf and filter, and its a random cone with no name and i can't find a replacement for it. personally i'd rather have an airbox but people like being F&F so im stuck with this piece of trash.

idk why people think cone filters are better, they are actually way worse than oem air boxes since they have no ram-effect like the oem ones and they suck in air from all directions, including the hot engine. less horsepower on NA, harder to replace, retarded...
You don't need a high-flow fuel pump if you don't plan on making your engine perform beyond OEM. However, I will say like Boostin that Walbros are AWESOME- and I attribute your buddy's 1 out of 4 success to operator error.

If cone filters suck so bad, then why do so many people have them? F & F? Maybe... but there are performance gains in opening up the intake/exhaust system as well as gas mileage gains to boot. Measure out the tube or get a MAFS adapter and put a new filter on there. OR you can pop the one you have off & clean it. If you think the air box is so much better, I am sure you can get one off Ebay or out of a junkyard.

I think your 'experience' is a bit misguided.

Edit: By the way, if you decide to change out your O2 sensor, get the one that applies to your VIN#. The Nissan parts dept. should know which one to order based on that.
 
There's 2 O2 sensors on a KA iirc.

Typically the rear one is the one to replace. Auto parts store ftw.
 
In addition to what boost said

I agree. I did the front one right behind the heat shield. Didn't do shit.
Do the rear (underside of the car)

Go adjust the iiacv. It will take some fooling around because it is a bitch to get to. Ill show u pictures of mine since my ka is out f the car. Gimme a few hours


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
its that tiny screw underneath the tb right? i need to replace alot of the parts i mentioned though because (despite the backyard-mechanic attitude) it's preventative maint > fix everything when it breaks. sometimes letting something break = more things breaking.

also my car sounds like complete shit as it is, and i NEED it to last and start/run perfectly every time since its now my permanent daily. there is no drift/weekend car anymore.

my friend's IS300 literally had 100% positive camber because of not fixing it. he didn't beef up his rear end and after drifting a corner his joint snapped and his driver side rear wheel went completely face down, his frame is pretty fucked up too. I'd rather not have any of it. you know what i mean
 
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