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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Pulled out the old pads and shims from the R33 GTST to get the shims checked out. A few of them are coated in a black substance, like one shim per caliper. But the shims' coating is bubbled and coming off in some spots. Scrape it off gently and lightly sand it checking for burrs or other fouling and call it good or continue the search in Aussieland for a shim kit for them?
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Was cleaning all the junk out of the car from it being used to move and I found a receipt from the shop dad took it to for an out of curiosity once over. Says they found a valve cover leak (which I confirmed, it's not major but gives me an excuse to take the valve cover off and paint it), an oil pan gasket leak and one of my power steering hoses is leaking. Joyous occasion. Now to get some gasket maker, a valve cover gasket and to crawl under there and figure out where my power steering is leaking from. Just says "power steering line" on the receipt so that leaves a few different options.
 
Lookin good dude!

For the LED dash lites, just disconnect the dimmer completely... The JDM S-chassis cars don't have dimmers for the dash lites even with regular bulbs installed.

The rear speakers can bolt directly to the spots where the original plastic mounts were. Makes for much cleaner install; and everything will clear nicely!


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Keep it up~
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Speaking of power steering, anybody running the Chase Bays line kit and reservoir? I'm all for shiny AN fittings and stainless lines and Chase Bays puts out good stuff but I'm always up for opinions.
 
Speaking of power steering, anybody running the Chase Bays line kit and reservoir? I'm all for shiny AN fittings and stainless lines and Chase Bays puts out good stuff but I'm always up for opinions.
I run the line, but not the reservoir:

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I already had an aftermarket reservoir (Billion).... I heard that the CB reservoir is not properly baffled and spews fluid under pressure; but they may have fixed that issue in later iterations.

I recommend the Billion reservoir- it fits just like OEM, and looks awesome- especially with your car being blue!
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the Chase Bays reservoir. They advertised on Zilvia and a few other forums and the baffling issue had come up from other forum users. They did more R&D on it and the most current iteration of it has both outlets on the bottom of the tank so the issues of the baffles have supposedly been resolved. I'll give them a shot.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
I'm still using my USDM cluster. Just swapped 194 mini wedges into the plugs. Dimmer works... kind of. I can see it on the redline indication and on the needles. When it's really dark out I see the whole cluster dim and get brighter. Also, ordered the Chase Bays power steering kit and some new headlight mount brackets, adjustment screws and seal rings. My passenger side light points a few inches skyward and the adjustment screws just bend the tabs on the mounts instead of aim the lights.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
So it begins. Pricing rebuild parts to forge my internals, and a machine shop to do the machining and disassemble/reassemble dance. I'd do it myself for the learning experience but the labor cost and cost of stuff/space it'd take to have my car gutted and put back together about break even. I did make the power steering kit jump but the new idiot proof reservoir put the kit on a 3 week back order. That'll leave me time to finish the hand work on the brakes and 5 lug swap, and get the wheels tired and in my location.
 
So it begins. Pricing rebuild parts to forge my internals, and a machine shop to do the machining and disassemble/reassemble dance. I'd do it myself for the learning experience but the labor cost and cost of stuff/space it'd take to have my car gutted and put back together about break even. I did make the power steering kit jump but the new idiot proof reservoir put the kit on a 3 week back order. That'll leave me time to finish the hand work on the brakes and 5 lug swap, and get the wheels tired and in my location.
Did you end up going with the Chase Bays reservoir and lines? I was looking into getting that set-up as well, let me know what you think about it when you get it in! (if thats what you got that is)
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
I got the Chase Bays kit. Guys called me and told me that their new reservoir is still coming in so I'm on a 3 week back order. I get to pretend to be a stock car driver on longer drives until I get to my ATF fluid and top my res back off but yeah... keep the seals lubed enough and hope for the best in the meantime.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
KA24DE idle adjustment

Wrapped e-tape around the little bit of bare wire on the battery ground and it brought my idle up a bit from where I had adjusted it while dealing with that misfire last year. Googled the adjustment screw location to refresh my mind of which one to monkey with and found a KA powered Mikester post from 2009 on another forum. PS: idles at 1000 in neutral no load. Was sitting at 700 where it belongs prior to dealing with the bare wire.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Real update. Dropped the hammer on the tires for the wheels. Mom and dad are bringing them up when they come up to visit since I haven't seen them since I got back. Kumho Ecsta ASTs in 215/45R17 91H...

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Square Wheels G33's. 17x9.

Still working on the calipers. Some of the pistons are ridiculously stuck so I'm gonna pick up some c clamps and a grease gun to ******* the stuck ones out. Gonna sand the caliper shells down and give them a few coats of red caliper paint, grind off the Nissan text for the super sexy shiny... then Saturday-ish on the long weekend it's 5 lug time. Hawk HPS pads, DBA slotted rotors.
 
Once the calipers are painted, be VERY careful when bleeding the brakes... Unlike powder coating, brake fluid will eat it QUICK... My calipers are only painted atm... The backs look pretty rough lol.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Looks like due to time constraints, they're going to go on JDM Junkyard Gray but I'm gonna at least bust rust and grime off them and get new seals and boots in along with the Z32 BMC. The Import Nut walkthrough for the swap suggests using the automatic S13 booster and either of the bigger Z32 master cylinders for the swap for the best pedal feel, and I already have the auto S13 booster becauseautofromthefactory. Might attempt to get the calipers painted if time allows but it's my daily so I can't start the swap and only get half done when I have to go back to work Tuesday. #projectdailyproblems
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Who gets to either attempt to re tap the threads on one of his brake calipers or helicoil the input port for the lines? This guy. M10x1 is the size for the Z32 and R33, yeah?

Bright side is the threading isn't as warped as believed last night so a tap should do the trick. To the Batcave!
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Front is done. Well... the wheels are on and on the ground. Got a little heavy handed with the Tien inners and outers on my passenger side so it's toed in a bit but it won't be moving so I'll fix that during the double/triple check of everything.. Also need moar low and to dial in the camber a bit to get it "good enough" for a little jaunt to the alignment shop. Pics will follow Tuesday. I'm tired and have to finish cleaning up the parking spot beside where I am working in the apartment complex. Gonna get the SPL tension rods on at my earliest convenience prior to the alignment run too, but they're fairly easy to properly adjust... just kinda concerned with the camber. My steering rack *was* properly aligned so I just need to tweak that right front a bit.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Nabco BM50 is installed. S13 BMC is shredded. Needed the phantom 3rd fitting. So for those keeping score, the car is a TK3 1993 S13 SE with no ABS or HICAS. The BM50 is the 1 inch Z32 BMC. Car is still auto for now.
 
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