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Discussion starter · #482 ·
maybe he just doesn't post every little thing to the car he does.
This man speaks the TRUTH! I've been super busy with school and havent had much time to work on my car. But I'll try and hammer out as much of an update as I can give tonight! So stay tuned.
 
Discussion starter · #483 ·
Off-Season III

Well November marked the second anniversary of this build, and it was quite a bitter sweet milestone. Its been such a great adventure so far, but its about god damn time that this thing finally saw some miles! So I'll start by giving you guys a general status of the car!

Upgrades Completed

1. Cleaned the rust in the trunk (gonna need some touch up)
2. Pulled out that baby sr and made way for the new heart
3. Fixed rusted frame rails
4. Tein Flex Coilovers
5. Major engine bay clean up
6. Painted calipers
7. Brembo Discs
8. Bolted up rb26
9. Rewired Car
10. Mckinney mounts
11. Momo Sterring Wheel
12. FP gauge
13. Tomei 600cc Injectors
14. Tomei fuel rail
15. Greddy Pulleys
16. Tomei AFPR
17. Circuit Sports Coolant Reservoir
18. Koyo Rad
19. Flex-i-lite Pusher fans
20. New PS pump
21. Steel Braided Fuel Lines
22. Walboro Fuel Pump
23. Intercooler Piping
24. Greddy Intercooler
25. HKS BOV
26. Apexi CAI Filters
27. Grex Filter Relocator
28. Oil cooler
29. Mckinney Driveshaft
30. Front Crash Brace
31. Megan Racing Exhaust
32. Megan Racing Cat Delete
33. Cusco Oil Catch Can
34. Greddy Front/Rear Crash brace
35. Innovative A/F Gauge/controller
36. Vi-pec Plugnplay Ecu
37. Steel Braided PS lines

I'm sure i've missed some stuff but thats a decent list for now!

Okay so On to the Stuff that really matters!

2013 To Do List
1. T2860-5's
2. Tomei exhaust manifolds
3. Tomei Dump Pipes
4. Steel Braided Turbo lines
5. Steel Braided Blow By lines
6. Boost Solenoid
7. Paint Valve Covers
8. Fix Alternator
9. Turbo Timer
10. EDFC
11. Fix Horns
12. Electronic mounting solution
13. Wire Deck
14. Wire subs/Make Enclosure
15. Racing Seats (finally chosen)
16. New interior fabric
17. WS washer Fluid Reservoir
18. Roll Cage
19. Fix E-brake
20. Retap Tranny hole
21. Build Battery Bracket
22. Alignment
23. Racing harnesses
24. Hood Fitment
25. Body panel Fittment

Thats all i can think of for now and again I'm sure there is more to do!

So hopefully well have a drifting car by the end of winter

And just so this update doesn't suck entirely....which is kinda does because I haven't done much on the car recently. Here is which seats I've picked!

Bride Zeta III type-L in blue
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ALSO

Bought a car hauler so I could stop renting a trailer! pretty happy with it considering it was only 2250!

kijiji pics
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My pics (sorry bout the poor quality)

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Discussion starter · #484 ·
Alright hopefully I can get a good start on the turbo swap today! Ill be sure to take lots of pics because recently my posts have been lacking! Any ideas on where I should order turbo lines from? (Gonna go steel braided). As always feedback is encouraged!


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 
hey just like to start by saying this is an awesome build man, can tell youve put alot of time into this 240..i just had a couple questions because im planning in doing an rb26 swap myself next year after my deployment. first, can you use the rb26 oil pan or did you us an rb25? ive heard there might be clearance issues without using the skyline crossmember.

secondly when going with nistune or any standalone system how are you going from maf to map sensor? do you have to wire in a new sensor or is it monitored thru the standalone..might be a stupid question but its a little confusing to me.. any help would be awesome!!
 
Discussion starter · #486 ·
The rb26 oil pan needs to be modified for sway bar clearance and crossmember Clearance.

The vi-pec ecu I'm using has a built in map sensor so all you need to do is run a vacuum line from the back of the balance tube to the ecu. You can also buy a separate sensor unit for ecu's without built in sensors.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
Discussion starter · #489 ·
It has been far too long since I've updated this thread or made any huge progress on my car!

So, since I'm starting fresh here's the plan!

Right now the engine is sitting in the shop waiting to be finished before going back in the car.
Here is whats going onL

Where we left off the new turbo parts had come in and it was time to pull the engine! Just so that you guys can get an idea of what it takes to pull an rb26 out of a 240...here's a time lapse!
ENGINE PULL TIMELAPSE

This summer I got an engineering internship in Estevan, SK. Next step was to load everything into the trailer. The car, engine, and tool box fit like a glove!

The trailer:
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New equalizer hitch
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What needed to be packed.
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Took until 3am but we got the car all loaded up!
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Next morning it was time to load the engine
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Now time for all the parts!
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Now tools
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Empty Garage
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I need to get back to work. I'll post another update later today!
 
Discussion starter · #490 ·
Once the car made it to Estevan we got it unloaded and started getting into it.

The first thing that needed sorting was I needed to order lines (water feed and return, oil feed) for the turbos.

I talked to RightDrive and short of me sending them my hardlines they couldn't do too much for me. The reson I went there first is my Bride seats are going to be shipped from there sometime soon. Next I went to the guys at Lightspeed because worst came to worst I could get them my lines. I shipped them my lines but after a week of waiting for them to pick up the hard lines I sent them to be picked up from the post office I got impatient and told them that when they do get around to picking them up just to send them back. I decided although kind of pricey, I would make them up myself instead of ordering ebay lines. In hind sight it would have probably been far easier to order ebay lines.

I found all my fitting sizes and line sizes and ordered the bulk of the fittings from Summit. Here's what showed up.
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Due to some tight fitment I needed to order some other fittings but all in all 95% of the fittings would work. I also took this opportunity to order oil restrictors and to order lines for the blow-by system.

Coolant return fitment
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Then I moved on to getting the other parts of the turbo's ready. First I tried to pull the intakes. Got 3/4 of the allen key bolts out nicely, the third one is pretty severly rounded and is gonna need to be replaced. Here's what it looks like:

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I then ordered new oil drain gaskets.

Now on to pulling the manifolds.
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Nuts came off nicely
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Pretty black in the manifolds, I haven't had a lot of oppurtunities to get into engine building much and hope this isn't unusual considering it is the exhaust side!
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The Head outlets have quite a bit of build up as well. Can someone please let me know if this is an issue or can it be expected from years of abuse?

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Finally a happy ending, mocking up the new manifolds!
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Discussion starter · #492 ·
Awesome pics/update. It's been a while since we got one!
Thanks, Once the fittings arrive I will get everything put back together and should have the engine back in the car by the 17th of August!
 
Discussion starter · #493 ·
Finally got all the fittings I need to finish the turbos, only waiting on the gaskets for the oil return and then I'm good to put the turbos together.

Here is a picture of the work area for the summer

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In the mean time I got busy transferring all the hardware to the new turbos, things are starting to shape up.

New vs. Old
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Finished mounting up the new manifolds
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New Fittings arrived and Now I'm finally able to start getting things all ready to go.
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Installed the water feed
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Started figuring out the lengths I needed to make the steel braided water lines and how everything was going to fit together.
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It was tight to say the least!

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Clearance for water feed

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Turbo #2

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First line done
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Got the front turbo water lines done!
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If all goes well should have the engine in by the end of next week!

PS:

Here is the difference between $2 and $10 fittings. Both work but there is definitely a huge difference in quality and the way they seal the hose is much different.

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Discussion starter · #495 ·
Back At It!

So its been a few months since I've updated. I've been really busy with work and school. All my free time from that has been to devoted to my car. I left off with the turbos about to be installed. So lets jump back into it!

Here are the turbos will all the lines ready to be bolted up.

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It was all starting to shape up which was very promising!

Bolted up with the lines connected. I have to say that this was one of the coolest things I'd ever seen and probably the best this engine has looked up to this point.

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It was quite a relief to finally after all this work see everything coming together. The summer was winding to a close, with it my summer internship position in southern Saskatchewan was about to end. This meant packing everything up and bringing it back to Alberta. As moving the engine and car separately was a huge pain, I was determined to get the engine in before it was time to head home.

I had a 2 week span to get the engine in. My days consisted of work often 6-6 then car work 7-12 or 1. Not a lot of sleep went on... however great progress was made! So now it was time to toss the motor back in. Luckily its getting easier and easier the more times I do it, and having a forklift to do it with helped too. This process has been described in detail quite a bit in this thread so I'll just show you some pictures of the process!

Before

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Downpipe On!
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Car hoisted up

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Chained up to the engine.

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Here is the clearances on each side.

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And then 5 hours after we started the engine is in!

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Now that the engine was in its was time to bolt, attach, clip and fill everything! After a few hours of work here's what we ended up with.

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With everything ready to go it was time to try to fire it up.

Click Here!

and go for a quick little test drive!

Click Here!

The tune was pretty rough and the engine was running super rich but let me tell you there was nothing more satisfying than driving the car onto the trailer at the end of the summer!

I packed things up and was headed on the long haul back to Edmonton!

Meanwhile..... Back in Edmonton!
A nice little package had arrived for me from Daryl @ RightDrive. Thanks Daryl.
Sorry about the bad photo quality, I haven't had a chance to take some good pictures of the seats yet.

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Thats all for now, I will try to finish updating the thread by the end of the week. Next update will include new issues, fixes, work and will conclude with Dyno Results! Stay Tuned!
 
Discussion starter · #496 ·
Dyno Time

With the engine running and the car somewhat drivable it was now time to finally get a proper tune and see if all this hard work had paid off. The dyno appointment was booked for early september and I had a few weeks to prepare.

I started the prep with a fluid swap, Engine oil, tranny fluid, and diff fluid.

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Next was to swap out the engine bay fuel pressure gauge with the sensor so that I can monitor fuel pressure from the driver's seat.

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Finally I decided to do a compression test because it would be a waste to show up to a dyno with poor compression. This had been passed a few times in this build and should have been done long ago.

Upon removing the valve cover and coil packs I noticed that there was some very unwanted corrosion around the spark plugs.

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This would need to be cleaned eventually, but for the time being I just did a basic wipe and got rid of all the loose grit/grime.

Next pulling the plugs we saw they were fouled which isn't a huge surprise considering how rich the vehicle was running.

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Just for good measure I would pick up a set for the dyno.

Now it was test time

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Results were acceptable

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Now with all this done there were a few issues to address. The threadsealer I used on the coolant fitting to the block and the turbos didn't seem to be doing its job.

Also there was a small leak coming from the oil filter relocator sandwich plate. Not a major issue because it was a very minor leak. I didn't know how strict the pre-dyno inspection would be so I assumed it would need to be fixed.

The PS rack was slightly leaking but it turned out to be simply a loose fitting.

Also I would need to have a boost solenoid installed in the car before the dyno.

This was going to prove to be quite the task however since school was starting and I was no longer going to have time to work on the car I decided it would be best to take it to the guys at Lightspeed and let them get the car dyno ready.

Lightspeed fixed the coolant leak and oil leak within a week or two of me dropping it off and soon enough I was headed to red deer to go participate in the dyno session.

Upon arrival in red deer I was a little disappointed to hear that the boost solenoid had not been installed like I asked. Therefore a manual boost controller was thrown in just so that the day wasn't a complete failure.

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So after getting the car set up on the dyno we started to just put a base tune on the car. We soon noticed that the car would benefit from some copper spark plugs so we tossed some in.

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Running at about 13.5PSI here's what we got:

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These results were pretty disappointing to be completely honest but at least they could be explained.

First of all, its a completely stock head that hasn't been touched in 20 years. This engine in begging for some head work but I wanted a baseline before doing too much with it.

Second, thats a pretty big intercooler up in front and the piping isn't small either, this was causing a bit of extra turbo lag which was hurting us seeing as we were only revving to 7000rpm.

Finally there is a massive restriction in the downpipe because it is a LHD vehicle cause a pretty big air restriction. It sucks but its something you just have to live with to stay twin and swap.

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Also this build is now nicknamed the DRAGON LADY because she sure likes to breath fire!

Here's a little video I tossed together of the event.

CLICK HERE!


Thats all for now, I'll finish updating the thread tomorrow. This will include a revisit to the dyno, a boost increase, and a game plan for what comes next! Stay Tuned!
 
Discussion starter · #497 ·
So after the first dyno appointment my tuner and I had a long discussion about where the car was now and where I wanted it to be. Seeing as we were limited by exhaust air flow and head flow really our only options short of building the head was to throw in a set of splitfire coil packs, a proper boost solenoid wired to the ecu, and turn up the boost. Now I'm not to worried about longevity because I'll be slowly working on building a new engine while I enjoy this one.

Anyways back to the story. After everything was installed it was time to hit the dyno again. After getting all set up we were ready for a few high boost passes.

Here was our starting point at 13.5 PSI

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After a couple hours of tweaking and pushing we ended up at 17.5 PSI. We were starting to see bigger gains as we were now getting into the efficiency range of the turbos. Without any head work and the exhaust flow restrictions I found the -5's to be a bit oversized for my application. However they are going to be perfect once we get a build head on the engine. Nonetheless, here are the final numbers we ended up with. (Please ignore the 20PSI on the screen, the gauge is not properly calibrated)

CLICK HERE


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353 HP & 314 lbft TQ @17.5 PSI

After all was said and done we dialed it down to 16.5 PSI for that extra degree of safety leaving the car at 340HP and 300 TQ. Overall I'm pretty happy with the result and would like to thank the guys at Lightspeed Innovations, especially Cam.

On another note, Santa was very kind this year!

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Thanks Daryl for hooking me up with these! RightDrive was very prompt in getting these to me.

Now here is the plan for what needs to be done next before it is ready to go for an inspection and get registered/insured.

To Do List:
1. Fix horns (wiring issue)
2. Wire in EDFC
3. Wire in Turbo Timer
4. Install Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor
5. Fix E-Brake (The torsion springs on the rear brake callipers are seized I believe)
6. Get basic 6-point Roll Cage installed
7. Install racing seats
8. Install Takata Harnesses
9. Build mounting bracket for battery
10. Build small mount for coolant return line (the coolant return line falls dangerously close to the exhaust manifolds)
11. Install water temp sensor
12. Re-tap shift knob (shift knob not proper size from sr20 transmission)
13. Install hood/aero
14. Get Alignment



Overall this is about all its going to take to get the car ready for some daily driving and fun!

Thats all for now, thanks for reading. More updates to come soon. Stay Tuned!
 
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