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90 Rebuild/Build Thread (picture intensive)

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Discussion starter · #181 · (Edited)
Ordering my fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, AN fittings, tip-over valve/vent, braided brake lines, battery relocation kit, battery box, Mishimoto radiator with electric fans, and some other miscellaneous items this Friday.
 
Discussion starter · #183 ·
A little work today:
Bolted in the electrical boxes in the bay.
Re-ran the body harness and secured it all.
Put the rear calipers on and hooked up the e-brake cables.
Transferred the wingless wiper-less hatch from the parts car.
Swapped the hoods (parts car had no dents)




Question about the e-brake cables:

How do you adjust them?

When the e-brake is down, the wheels are locked. I loosened the nut on the end of the cable by the handle all the way. It still doesn't want to let go.

Did I do something backwards?
 
#184 ·
On each caliper, on the levers where the end of cable "knob" pulls on it, on that lever there are two perches, if the cable is on the very bottom or at the end of the lever, it will be tight.....intended for a stretched cable. If the cable is already at the position half way up the lever and the adjustment at the e-handle is loose and the brakes are still locked, might be the wrong cable......chime in guys if you got more......:serious:
 
Discussion starter · #185 ·
Bad Mammajamma said:
On each caliper, on the levers where the end of cable "knob" pulls on it, on that lever there are two perches, if the cable is on the very bottom or at the end of the lever, it will be tight.....intended for a stretched cable. If the cable is already at the position half way up the lever and the adjustment at the e-handle is loose and the brakes are still locked, might be the wrong cable......chime in guys if you got more......:serious:
Click to expand...
I guess I saw that second perch and didn't think anything of it. I'll move the cables this weekend and try it. Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #186 · (Edited)
So I ordered the fuel lines, fittings, and all that fun stuff. I'll be shipping it all back because noob. I ordered stuff that was the same size as the fittings on my fuel cell. It's all entirely too big. 8AN.... holy balls. A little more research would've been good. I'll just have to pick up fittings that'll reduce the 8AN to something smaller from the cell.

Anyway, zero progress on the car in the last 4 months. It's way too damn cold in my garage. One of these days i'll get back to it.
 
Discussion starter · #188 ·
Bad Mammajamma said:
On each caliper, on the levers where the end of cable "knob" pulls on it, on that lever there are two perches, if the cable is on the very bottom or at the end of the lever, it will be tight.....intended for a stretched cable. If the cable is already at the position half way up the lever and the adjustment at the e-handle is loose and the brakes are still locked, might be the wrong cable......chime in guys if you got more......:serious:
Click to expand...
I put new pads in the rear and my issue is no longer there. No idea.. lol
 
Discussion starter · #189 ·
Progress! This has been a helluva haul since it all started. In the last 4 months:

New fuel cell trunk floor is welded in and painted.

Fuel cell is mounted.

Installed some Agency Power stainless braided rear brake lines and ceramic pads.

Put in new struts with Tein springs(from the gray parts car)... these springs suck, monster truck ride height.

Couple things have changed since I last posted. No longer putting my SOHC back in it. Swapping the DOHC from the gray car. That's out and nearly ready to go in. I'm waiting on egr block off and vacuum lines. Lines are very brittle so i'm just going to get it taken care of now. Also, in an effort to reduce cost a little(for now to get it running) I went with an OEM replacement radiator and sticking with the clutch fan. Intended driving won't be terribly vigorous this year, so it should hold up.

Parts on order currently:

Optima battery box
Battery relocation wiring kit
Header for the DOHC
EGR plate
Vacuum lines
Strut braces(Yes cheap ebay, something is better than nothing from what i've read. Seam welded front end should help with flex too)

Next items on the to do list:

Vacuum Lines
EGR block off
Drop in motor and trans
Run the engine harness into the car
Custom stainless front brake lines
Battery relocation
Fuel system

Went with a 255lph external pump. I need to make all of my AN lines and whatnot for the fuel system. I had originally intended to make braided lines to run all the way to the engine compartment. The cost savings by still utilizing the factory hard lines is tremendous with the cost of fittings and braided hose in mind.



Question for guys who have done DOHC swaps. I know I read it somewhere, but I can't remember where. What dash functions do you lose when you swap? How do I get around it/fix it?? Anything helps!
 
Discussion starter · #190 ·
Pictures!! :big_grin:



^^^^^Painted



^^^^^Cell installed



^^^^^Another install pic

That's all I really have for pictures at the moment. Who cares about struts and brake lines right? I will be getting photos of the front lines. They are going to be nice!


Don't mind the unpainted areas, I needed to get the bare steel painted to minimize the rust. Everything will be completely painted in the future. Just working on getting her running. I'm coming up on 3 years(2yrs 9mos now) since I've driven her. Shooting for the end of July!! We'll see what happens!


Side note: garage roof needs replacing, so no work for a couple weeks again. :frown:
 
Discussion starter · #192 ·
ou811 said:
dang that fuel cell setup is looking clean!!
Click to expand...
Thank you! Finished up my garage roof today, so I should have more updates next weekend.

All the parts I had on order are in. I think i need to order one more egr plug though.

If everything goes as planned(and the nickel and dime crap stops for a little bit) all I need to purchase is my optima yellow top and a windhsield. Very soon i hope!
 
Discussion starter · #193 ·
So work has been holding me back. Traveling sucks so weekends become relaxation time.

I was able to button up the front brakes and the braided lines in the bay. My lines run directly from the master to caliper, no more hardlines!

I also got the flywheel and clutch/pressure plate torqued on. Was going to bolt the transmission on, but decided to just go ahead and replace the throw out bearing while they're apart. I'll be putting that on order tomorrow.

It's exciting having almost everything on hand i need to finish this thing mechanically. I just need to get it done.

I sold my pickup recently, so I should be able to start my other build once i have this one running. That's a whole new monster!

Only one picture, and don't mind the filthy brake master.

 
Discussion starter · #194 ·
Bearing has arrived! This weekend is jammed full of crap to do OTHER than the 240 unfortunately. Going to try to get the motor and trans mated, vacuum lines replaced and EGR delete done so it's ready to go back in.

My last 2 fittings for the fuel system finally came in after about a month and a half on back order.

More items to order now:
Starter/switch panel because racecar
Relay for the new fuel pump
Fuel line/clamps
AN assembly lube and thread sealant

Question: I have an OBX header to put on. Put it on before or after motor and trans are installed? That's not something I want to remove again if I can help it.
 
#195 ·
I'm diggin' it, Big Daddy! Not sure about before or after eng. install, but if you do it after, you'll have to remove your steering shaft from the rack, OR remove the master cyl.,....I got mine in there after I removed the master and gently leaned it out of the way and didn't have to remove the steering rack....Anyhoo, good to see some progress, with the busy summer and all! I'm thinking your house is a little less quiet these days!:wink:
 
Discussion starter · #196 ·
Yes, it will be louder very soon! 3 weeks to my wife's due date. That's putting a hold on the car too. Wrapping up last minute projects before our little girl arrives.
 
Discussion starter · #197 ·
No work, but more parts on order! :devil:

-Fuel pump relay w/ harness
-Push button 5 switch ignition panel
-Master disconnect for power
-some assembly lube and thread sealant for AN lines
-nylon vise jaw protectors so I don't jack up my pretty fittings assembling the lines.

Still need:
-test pipe - no need for a cat in MN
-catback of some sort
-windshield
-optima battery
-exhaust studs

I thought the buying was done... until i looked at my parts list! :crying:
 
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