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90 Rebuild/Build Thread (picture intensive)

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Discussion starter · #422 ·
Decided to take a look at my fuel leak. We changed out the worm gear clamps for actual EFI hose clamps.

Yea, it wasn't the clamps. The hard line is rusted through. Now the question is...

1 make/rig a new hard line
-or-
2 replace both the feed and return lines with stainless braided like the rest of my lines.

Option #1 is probably pretty cheap, but at what point could/would there be more issues?

Option #2 would include a new fuel filter that goes with AN fittings etc. The cost is approximately $190 and getting stabbed when making the lines again. Lol
 
#423 ·
Good to see you got the tires and wheels mounted! I'm going to be in the same boat next month, but I'm still trying to decide tire sizes. I kind of want to run a 275/255 set up (I'm not into stretching tires at all), but I'm pretty sure I'll have to also run an overfender in the rear with the wheels I want. I guess that's one way to cut the rust out of my quarters, lol.
 
Discussion starter · #424 ·
warningx said:
Good to see you got the tires and wheels mounted! I'm going to be in the same boat next month, but I'm still trying to decide tire sizes. I kind of want to run a 275/255 set up (I'm not into stretching tires at all), but I'm pretty sure I'll have to also run an overfender in the rear with the wheels I want. I guess that's one way to cut the rust out of my quarters, lol.
Click to expand...
Yep, I'm glad that's over with too. I'm also not a fan of stretch. I understand why a little is good, but excessive just looks stupid. Mine are pretty square.


A 275/255 setup will definitely require some wide wheels which in turn will require over fenders. A 9"width +25 offset wheel requires approximately 20-30mm over to be flush. If you want to tuck them in the fender, probably 50mm. I'm not a low low guy, and I HATE anything more than functional camber. I was shooting for flush and with the spacers I will have very minimal poke. I went with 5mm spacers in front and 3mm in the rear. Wasn't a fan of going with 12mm. That would give me more poke than I want.
 
#425 ·
Yeah, I understand that completely. I want to get the wheels and then get a junk 275 tire to get mounted and see how it looks on the car before pulling the trigger on buying a pair. The wheels I want only come in a +40 offset which sucks, but I'll definitely be running some spacers to push it out. I want it to be flush and functional, just not -736382 degrees of camber to get them to work. Lol
 
Discussion starter · #426 ·
warningx said:
Yeah, I understand that completely. I want to get the wheels and then get a junk 275 tire to get mounted and see how it looks on the car before pulling the trigger on buying a pair. The wheels I want only come in a +40 offset which sucks, but I'll definitely be running some spacers to push it out. I want it to be flush and functional, just not -736382 degrees of camber to get them to work. Lol
Click to expand...
Which wheels are you looking at? A +40 is going to require a fairly large spacer on a 9" or 10" wheel. My car right now is 17x8 +35 and it's flush and I'm running 235s. I'll go take a few pictures. My spacers will be here today to give me a little more clearace.

I was going to need a lot of roll and pull to try to clear meats like what you want. I didn't want to pull at all. Trying to stay in stock sheet metal. I'll go wider with over fenders when I actually have the power to need it! Lol
 
Discussion starter · #428 ·
So, an update on the fuel system. This was my first time actually "building" my own system. Turns out, with a fuel cell, it's highly recommended to run a large particle filter between the tank and pump, and then a smaller particle filter somewhere between pump and rail.

I currently only run the stock fuel filter. Since that line rusted and cracked, I decided to go ahead and purchase the bulk fuel line and AN fittings required to replace the hard lines. With the new developments in "proper" fuel filtration, it's going to run a bit more than originally expected.

The total was about $317 for:

30ft - Pro-flow 200 -6AN fuel line
2 - straight female fittings
2 - 90° swivel female fittings
1 - 100 micron fuel filter(prefilter)
1 - 10 micron fuel filter(post filter)
1 - 45° female to female fitting
2 - male to male connections
20 - cushion clamps to attach the lines to the car.

I just realized I need 2 more female straights. So I have to order those as well(another $11).

Trying to figure out how to avoid going from -6AN(3/8 ID) to 5/16 rubber line at the fuel rail. Less rubber and hard line sounds better to me.


EDIT: OBX makes a top mount fuel rail for the DE. This will require new injectors. I may make a few changes to my plan and get rid of the factory fuel rail. Depends on cost. This may be something for next year.
 
#429 ·
I'm going to be running Enkei NT03+M's. I'm still throwing around ideas for the offsets. They come in

18x8.5 +38
18x9.5 +40
18x9.5 +27
18x10.5 +30

I have considered running the 10.5 and 9.5's, but don't want to go too wide and regret it. So now I'm either considering running a full set of 18x9.5 +27's and just stretching the 255 on the fronts and running the 275's square on the rear or going with the 9.5 +27 on the rear and the 8.5 +38 on the fronts, since I'm going to want more poke in the rear than the front.

This guy has the 9.5 +40 and 10.5 +30 on his and I think it looks good, but definitely too much stretch and camber than I want to do.

Image




and then there is this guy that is running an 18x9.5 +22 set up all the way around on his car with 255's. I think it looks perfect in the front and the rear could use more tire (275). The question is, do I want to stretch a 255 over a 9.5 or just go with the 8.5's with some 15mm spacers to get to +23

Image


Image
 
Discussion starter · #431 ·
A little more into the research on the top feed setup. The sohc motor has 260cc top feed injectors. I happen to have one sitting in my garage right now. Still questionable if the 10cc drop over the dohc injectors will matter. Need more research.

Would likely require a new adjustable fpr and all that jazz.

Spacers are here.

 
Discussion starter · #432 ·
Decided to order a few more fittings so I can have a disconnect point for the return line. If I ever swap, the way I was designing the new lines might not carry over. By doing this and replacing 2ft of hose will be cheaper than running a whole new line in the future.


Total for this round of unexpected issues is around $388 :-(
 
#433 ·
I know that feel!!! The fuel system that is.. I didn't know about the 2 filter part. So that is good to know I just bought the aeromotive filter to use, which I thought would be good enough. I also read the Teflon coated lines are better and won't break down as fast as rubber lines.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #434 ·
Yea, they end up having a large OD than the rubber though. Using looms and clamps becomes difficult.

I was going to get aeromotive 100 and 10 micron filters. The 2 of them is close to $300. Something I'm not willing to spend just yet.
 
Discussion starter · #436 ·
I only read one source and took it from there. I could very well be wrong!

The Pro-Flo 200 is a seamless nitrile hose. Supposedly works very well and lasts. We'll see! Lol
 
Discussion starter · #438 ·
Been a below zero the last 2 days. My heater has a hard time keeping up with that. Hopefully today sometime. It's 10° now.

Looking at the pictures, 9.5 would be my choice since you can comfortably fit 255s on them. I wish I could fit 255s without a bunch of metal work.
 
#439 ·
Sounds good, man. I appreciate the input. I know what you mean. It's 20 here and has been snowing. Supposed to snow for the next 3 days. I just want it to be warm, but for me I'm in the "saving money" process right now anyways, so I guess it's worse on you, lol. I know how much it sucks to want to work on your car and things get in your way, especially mother nature.
 
Discussion starter · #440 ·
Update:

May be putting in a surge tank. My cell has no baffling or foam in it. While I don't expect I'll be running with low fuel, I also don't know what to expect for fuel mileage either. Rather not mess with fuel cut if I can help it. Roughly $200 for the whole setup. We'll see what happens before spring. It's kind of on the back burner for now.

Spacers are not on yet. Probably do that this weekend. Fuel stuff should be here by the weekend, not getting my hopes up after the last fiasco.

Still need to get fuel pressure gauge, oil pressure gauge, and fuel level gauge.
 
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collegekid
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