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dawhiz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a similiar problem w/ a rb25? VVT seems to click when ever I slightly move the throttle and then clicks back off when I let off.. symptoms are also idling problems, stalling, etc. Anyone have a similar problem and/or know how to fix it? Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
btw, it does it when I adjust the tps too.. so i just made it look centered which was past the click and that stopped it from doing it when I rev, but is that how its supposed to be?
 
Read the FSM and see how it suggests you adjust/calibrate the TPS...I know you have that book and just hate to read it. It has a whole trouble shooting guide in the back to check alot of the systems. Try using the tools you already have.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I remember reading the skylinesdownunder forums about vvt. They are disconnecting the vvt saying they get better top end performance. Also the lowend doesn't suffer much since (actually helps out) they say it helps reduce wheel spin.

I myself have not tried it. But I thought that the vvt gives the car extra umph at higher RPMs. So I am confused at what those Aussie guys are doing. But they seem to agree with each other.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I don't think it's true though.. even with the way it is right now, unsure of it being correct, I can pull past 5000rpm. When it wasnt wired at all, 5000rpm just seemed like it stopped dead powerwise. Of course, right now it sounds funny past 5,000rpm.. as if it's being overrev'd or something weird. Have any of you tried adjusting the tps and noticed a clicking sound? I just need to know if that's normal, then I can assume the VVT is working as it should.
 
I had the same issues before. Feels like a "soft rev limiter. I could rev pass 5500rpm but only when I don't have it WOT. If I do WOT, then it does it. I haven't messed with the tps or vvt yet but I relieved it somewhat. I tried to get my car dynoed and the guy said the spark was being blown out. He told me to get rid of the iridiums that I installed and get some cheap autolights (copper) and gap them to .028". The stock plugs that were in my car were gapped considerably more so I was hesitant to gapping them that close. So I gapped them to .030" and been running with it for a few weeks. Seems to be running better and the hesitation at WOT is 95% gone.

That helped out the problem I had. Don't know if it's the same you're having. Next time I get the plugs out I will gap them closer and see if it will cure it 100%.
 
Bad things happen when you dont have air flowing as the computer is expecting, whether its a boost leak, or a different airflow at higher RPMs...disconnecting the solenoid without the computer compensating isnt gonna work right...

Dawhiz, seriously....get your car back to the condition it was running best and alter ONE THING AT A TIME...then you will know if that thing fixed your problem and if it didnt...did it make things better or worse?

I am sorry I havent had alot of time to go over this with you this weekend, but you gotta think about this a little differently. If it WAS your TPS, it would do it even when the motor isnt running....if the TPS is the culprit, whenever you move your throttle it will cause the VVT to click....that isnt happening from what you told me, right?

Think it through. there was a situation where everything worked correctly...you altered something....it no longer works correctly....what changed.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
New spark plugs so i'm hoping they aren't the problem.. NGK's. Jon, right now I have the AACV working so it's idling at about 1000 where the TPS is set.. reason it never did the clicking before is because before the VVT didn't have power. So basically, as stands.. idles at 1000.. TPS is turned past the click so it doesnt click. Is that how its supposed to be? Unsure. Can't seem to get it to idle at 650ish. I guess when we talk we'll figure it out, I hope.
 
Set the TPS following the instructions in the FSM, not according to the VVT solenoid.

Adjust the screw on the IAC to lower idle to 650 with TPS unplugged.

If it doesnt work, check and see if the FICD is opening when it shouldnt....
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
jon, you can't be like that and not let me finish my 2nd line.. all i found was checking with consult, still looking for how to do it without.. screw nissan and their consult.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Jon, high five. I'll see you in the morning but I figure i'd tell you this now so you can think about it before we talk. How close does the TPS have to be? its set at like .512v or maybe a little less.. if I have to, i'll try to set it dead on .5v but its hard.. spent a long time just to get it that close.. when you tighten it is when it turns a little and makes it hard. Didn't seem to be clicking when I gave it throttle.. when I started it though (cold), it wouldn't idle at all.. i'd rev it up and it'd drop in sections.. maybe 200rpm apart. Bad temperature sensor possibly? Once it warmed up it was fine, idled at like 1000 (so yeah, might have to clean my aacv again better, been reading a long post on skylinesdownunder and it seems to be the problem for idling/stalling).. Also, it didn't stall until I opened it up. Friend came over so we headed over to a parking lot.. Way nice burnout in the rain (I feel I can do better when its not wet).. but uh, after pushing it hard.. dropping it around 4500 and running high in 1st down then shifting, etc.. pulling it back up past 5000.. it'll die if I come to a sudden slow down.. Other than that, no stalling. Anyways, I still have a lot to check tomorrow and setting of stuff probably. Going to check the o2 sensor as well and see if its still working or dead. I'll talk to you in the morning. It seems to run better now though other than cold.. we'll see once the ecu learns a little bit too.. maybe it'll run better tomorrow morning.

By the way, I think it pulled better after 5 than it did before. And that clicking is normal when leaving idle I guess.. even though I don't hear it now. Anyways, see ya in the morning.
 
Dont confuse this poor kid, he still needs to check and make sure all of his sensors are working right, and check the IAC, FICD, and air regulator....plus all of the intake pipes for boost leaks...plus plus plus....last hting he needs is to be thinking of installing an EGT gauge now....
 
Ok, and it will show him that he is running rich...then what?
Will it show which, if any of his intake pipes is leaking?
Will it show if his IAC, FICD or Air regulator are functioningproperly...if at all?
Will it show if he is getting a proper signal from his MAF or O2?

Not trying to be an ass, but its not something that is used for diagnosing problems, more for monitoring and fine tuning after everything is running right. The EGT has its uses and troubleshooting isnt really one of them.
 
an EGT will help because it will give him a baseline with which to compare tweaks he is making. If his problems are cause by only one thing, then, fine an egt would be unuseful, because once he found it, everything would be tip-top. However if several things are wrong, an egt gauge will show improvements before he may be able to detect them.
 
EGT is for tweaking and monitoring, not diagnosing. He cant even get off his ass to do what the FSM suggests, he shouldnt be installing an EGT to find the problems.

Sorry, I cant get onboard for this method of diagnosing problems....seems like a little halfassed attempt at real mechanics. A bandaid approach if you will...instead of findiing the real problem, you just fuck with shit until you get it closer to running right....half ass. Sure its closer to perfect, but still not right.

EGT is GREAT, if used for its intended purpose....monitoring, not troubleshooting.

There are 1000 potential problems, I say you start ruling them out one by one until you can get the problem fixed, not just compensate for it.
 
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