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Discussion starter · #21 ·
head work... s13 / s14

thanx 4 the linx and help, i'm starting to piece things together in my mind, i'm just trying to figure out a few things so i can know what i have available to use


i was wondering what the difference in the head from and s13 to an s14 is. is there a difference, or not, and can i use the s14 head without problems and is there any benefit with one over the other...

i've been doing pricing at junkyards and on the net, and i keep seeing the model year being a different p/n between the two, any info even a link would be helpful, i've tried to use the forum search but found nothing, although i do think i remember seeing a 92 or 93 with a listing of work done that included 98 head???


i hope that i don't sound stupid, i have been in the world of carbed mazda b-series trucks for a few years... sold it bought a 240, one of my alltime favorite cars, done honda, done mazda, now i'm a nissan man... i have a 91 240sx fastback black, and a 95 altima silver, i've done some work to the altima and then i sold my 99 accord and my 87 truck and got MY project... so i know a little bit about the ka, but i haven't tore into it very deep, b/c my wife held me back on the altima, but the 240 is all me, but i don't know how much goes between the two, FR and FF.. for some reason the intake and exhaust seemed to make more of an impact on the altima than the 240, and i even ran a larger pipe and cat on the 240 and all i did to the altima was a damn muffler and remove the silencer.
 
#22 ·
GunMedalGleam said:
SOHC piston raise the compression to 11.6 With that alone you'd make atleast 180 hp.
Click to expand...

i've been thinking about doing that mod, but would it really be ok to do this for the fact that those pistons were not designed for that level of compression? how long would they go until you start having trouble with them? Could you adjust your timing and fuel to go with the new compression?
 
#23 ·
240SXAddict said:
ok, that'd be cool if they added that much power... i think that would be the most bang for your buck i've seen on a 240
QUOTE]
I dont think it would be the most bang for you buck, I mean you could get the pistons themselve for no more then 2 bills, but its ganna cost oyu atleast 500 to get um put in, + whatever the shop charges to cut in releifs. But you going to rebuild then engine anyway then thats deffernt. To the other guy, how long the piston would hold up to higher compression im not sure. But im sure if you use good oil like royal purple, and use no shitty gas you have 0 problems.
Click to expand...
 
#24 ·
haha, pay people to put stuff on my own car? you're a comedian... i'll only pay people for work i dont have access to the tools needed to do it(i.e. boring crank journals or stuff like that) and if you were seriously building an all motor KA and really wanted to get the most power out of it you'd be dumb not to use forged pistons, cutting corners means cutting the life of your engine.
 
#25 ·
forged, new, ka-e pistons, that is... unless you bored out and did vg pistons, which ive heard from a guy who says he measured em, is possible, with a different crank, somen im gonna look into, iLike displacement and torque more than high end hp, if anybody didnt know

ed: yeah, er, ka-e<i>sized</i>, iDon think ive ever heard of forged genuine ka pistons
 
#27 ·
tryiian said:
forged, new, ka-e pistons, that is... unless you bored out and did vg pistons, which ive heard from a guy who says he measured em, is possible, with a different crank, somen im gonna look into, iLike displacement and torque more than high end hp, if anybody didnt know

ed: yeah, er, ka-e<i>sized</i>, iDon think ive ever heard of forged genuine ka pistons
Click to expand...
what do higher comp. pistons have to do with displacement+torque being better than high end hp. more displacement increase torque and hp. higher comp. pistons just put more squeeze on the air and increase hp and torque.

oh and KA24E forged pistons can be found here http://www.courtesyparts.com/nms/s13/s13_1.html and other places
KA24DE pistons can be found here http://www.ka24det.com and other places
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
anyone done any dremel work on the intake manifold, i just wondered what people were doing since there is no aftermarket intake mani available...

btw i have found a head and intake mani together, i can start on the small stuff after i pick em up...

also are there any trottlbodies i can swap easily or mafs that don't require ecu reprogramming, not ready for that yet??
 
#30 ·
best thing to do when goign n'a is leaving the motor as is and dont waste your time and money. your going to dump ashit load of money into soemthing that will still run 15's- be under 200hp.
 
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#33 ·
wow sorry insanity, i hit edit on your post instead of quote. Lemme see if there's a way to get it back
 
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#34 ·
the jwt ecu is key. they also have a good flywheel (11 lbs, like fidanza, i have one), and a clutch kit to go with it that is also good (have that too).
make sure you get your manifolds matched to the p&p's head.
b
 
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#36 ·
it does have ITB's, but longer ones than you'd expect (because it only revs to 8200). It's a KA24DE, however, it's still FI.

The reason why people don't think you can gain power N/A is that they don't understand the fundamental idea of what horsepower is. Horsepower is torque over time. The higher your torque, the higher your horsepower. Also, the higher your RPMs, the higher your horsepower. The exact equation is HP = (TQ*rpm)/5252, which is why the torque and horsepower curves will always cross at 5252. If you make stock torque (about 150 rwtq) at 7000 rpms (instead of the stock torque peak that's around 4500), then you have a new peak of 199.9 horsepower (at the wheels). But yeah, there's no way you could ever possibly peak 200whp with N/A.
 
#37 ·
Also, more is probably possible from a KA, because I'm almost certain that particular engine was for a truck-based KA running in some kind of offroad race, considering the torque peak was comparitively low from the horsepower peak.
 
#40 ·
drudogg said:
about the flywheel, i heard that it makes the car lose torque, and hard to drive around hills, this doesn't make sense to me, but the guy i talked to had helped build a few 240's a ka42e, was the one that he said he was dissapointed in the results
Click to expand...
"Good for handling , good for acceleration (tiny bit) , makes starting from a dead stop harder.....why because you need weight to move you...a flywheel basically has to be spun faster to make that same weight move....(more clutch slipping and wear)

So youll notice youll also be revving higher and harder to get going from a dead stop.....also making 1/4 mile launch consistency harder.....and on top of that the revs drop and raise quicker = harder to maintain traction again..

Good for the course/race-track/auto-x....bad for the strip and street (stop and go situations) in my opinion.

Ive had 2 , clutchmasters and act's. I prefer the heavier one....ACT's , it was like 19lbs from 22. While cm's was like 14lbs....or 55% reduction....

Also going uphill you will loose speed....while going downhill you will go faster.....

Yeah I know its a toss-up. In other words....I would waste money elsewhere on mods that will gain you power. T/B , Header , Exhaust , HF Cat , Cold-Air Intake and the such." - mike_sho @ superhonda.com
 
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