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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Well.. I busted my azz today and got as much done as I could but did not get a chance to start it... The most time consuming portion today was looming the wire harness and removing excess wires and plugs... I set all the components into place and ran the wires to all the sensors, etc trying to keep as much of the harness hidden as possible... After figuring routing out and marking the harness, I took everything off and loomed up the harness... I think it came out nice... I still have some to go but when its done, you wont see many wires at all in the engine compartment... I got the radiator and associated parts all hooked up and then worked on the intake manifold and components... then installed the liquid IC and lines... I got the PS delete lines installed... made an intake tube and mounted a HUGE K&N 5" ID filter...

I have to finish the alternator bracket I am machining so I can get that installed...I still need to hook up 5 transmission wires.. I am going to run a couple extra ground cables around the engine compartment to insure good circuits... I still need to run vac distribution and havent decided if I am going to do that in braided steel lines or silicone yet... I need to wire up the fans and run the wires to the sending units for the gauges... After I double check that every bolt, nut, and clamp is tight, I can fill it full of fluids and start her up...

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
240-kid said:
Whats the specs on the V3's?

Whats the expected power output?

Nice manifold :D Both Intake & Exhaust
Advertised lift and duration is .401" / 286 both intake and exhaust. Lobe seperation is 114 degrees. Actual duration is 226 @ .050"

I am shooting for 800 WHP thru an AT trans... About 1000 crank HP...

Thank you...
 
NICE!

seeing work, creativeness, and execution like this makes me have faith in the roots of the 240sx community, esp. since most of it has been taken over by bandwagon morons who know nothing and just want a "drifter" stance.

beautiful work

nuff said.
 
9sec240 said:
Advertised lift and duration is .401" / 286 both intake and exhaust. Lobe seperation is 114 degrees. Actual duration is 226 @ .050"

I am shooting for 800 WHP thru an AT trans... About 1000 crank HP...

Thank you...
:1bowdown :1bowdown :1bowdown WOW!! Very nice, can't wait to it making some passes down the strip.:eek3dance
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
mrbojangles said:
I've wet myself over your work so many times. I just have a quick question. I see your using a CAS and a coil ignition system. Can you breifly explain how you went about converting from the distributor the KA orginally had to this?

Thanks :)
Matt
The stock dizzy provides cam and crank signals to the ECU... The only thing I need from the dizzy is the cam / crank signals which are in the base of the dizzy... Basically I swapped the S14 dizzy (internal coil) for an S13 dizzy to get rid of the extra bulk... I just removed the cap and rotor to make room for the turbo.. I am working on machining a cover for it so it looks better...

Cam and crank signals is all the AEM needs to be able to fire a coil (or multiple coils in my case)... The AEM needed to be opened up and jumpers changed to allow for firing four coils.. I decided against waste spark to allow the coils to charge longer between firing and hooked the AEM triggers to an MSD DIS4 PLUS... I am using CBR 600 F4i coils... I have to run plugs with screw on tips so the motorcycle coils make contact correctly... I also had to machine the valve cover to allow the coils to sit down far enough...

Over all I think it really cleans up the engine compartment... The spark is rediculously hot too... The AEM drag CIVIC with the NSX motor runs the same setup....
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Well.. my hard work is paying off... I got to work this morning at 5:45 am and worked on compleating the trans wiring and buttoning up a few other details... Once I got everything together enough to start it, I filled it full of oil, disconnected the dizzy plug and pulled the fuel pump fuse... It took 25 seconds of cranking to prime the oiling system enough to turn the oil pressure light off.... I let the starter motor cool down while I checked for any leaks under the car... everything looked good... I cranked the motor again for about 15 seconds making sure that oil was flowing thru the whole motor.... I reconnected the dizzy plug and put the fuel pump fuse back in and jumped in the drivers seat and turned the key and she fired right up on the first try.... She settled down into a nice idle as I checked under the car for any leaks... I could hear a noise that didnt sound right that I suspected was the alternator bearings.... everything else looked perfect.... I jumped in the drivers seat, put it in reverse and backed it out of the shop to park it ouside because unfortunatly it was time for me to work on customer cars....

At lunch I went out to investigate what I suspected was an issue with the alternator bearings.... I took the alt belt off and sure enough the noise was gone..... The motor sounds absolutly amazing... actually frighteningly quiet... no lumpy idle... no obnoxiously loud exahust... just a purrrrr... no... more of a growl with the soft whine of a turbo spinning.....

Tomorrow I should be recieving the new fogger nossels from NX (the ones I got in the kit wouldnt clear my fuel rail) and I can get the Nitrous install complete... I am going in to work early again tomorrow to finish machining my alternator relocation bracket so I can tension the water pump and she will be 97% finished... I have small things to take care of like finishing the gauge installs, installing the boost controller, wiring for the IC pump, wiring the fans, etc etc etc.....

I am hoping that late wed night I should have the car on the dyno for drivability tuning...
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Another busy day... Got to work just before 6am and headed right into the machine shop...

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Here is a large block of aluminum that I started with....

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Here the bracket is about half way done... I made a LOT of chips... I actually filled a 5 gallon bucket with aluminum chips...

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Here is the bracket in place with an alternator mounted to it..

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Another view of the alternator position.. Notice how the alternator now tensions the water pump...

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In this view you can see the workings of the bracket and also see the spacers I made for positioning the tensioner bracket forward...

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You can see in this picture why I needed to lower the alternator in addition to bringing it forward... Even with it dropped down, the belt still comes VERY close to the water neck...

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After making sure it fit correctly, I decided to remove some more metal to lighten it and make it look better...

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Another view....

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And yet another...

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Oops.... how did this picture get here??????
 
nice... too bad you can't climb mill on a bridgeport, would have made your bracket fab go quite a bit quicker, and easier.. :)

but it looks good!! I need to get my ass into a shop and start fabricating some brackets for my sled.. it's too bad I can't incorporate my car into my work like you can..
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Here is the latest on my car....

I installed the Alternator relocation bracket on my motor so I could finally get a belt around the water pump and fill the coolant system and get it burped... I filled the coolant system up with straight water with a bottle of Water Wetter added for heat transfer, lubrication and corosion resistance... During thermal cycling, I figured out the wiring for the dual pusher fans and got the AEM to control them...

Now that I could run the motor for an extended period of time, I was able to top off the trans fluid and run it thru the gears... The AEM AT trans control is set up for an MKIV Supra and the shift solenoid A/B pattern is different from the Nissan AT trans.. I changed the table to correct the shift order and got that working right... The AEM uses TPS versus wheel speed to control shifts... I have a 300ZX TT vehicle speed sensor and 28" tall tires so the signal getting to the AEM is not correct... This throws off the shifts... Temporarily I changed the VSS correction table to get things close but this doesnt change the reading on the speedo... I picked up a Dakota Digital vehicle speed signal modifier that I am going to install tomorrow to alter the signal so the AEM and speedo get the right signal for my specific setup of tires, gears and VSS...

Yesterday I worked on getting my car closer to being finished... I firmed up the mounting of the S15 headlights and front bumper... The front end is all solid now... I just need to aim the headlights after I finalize the ride height... I got the Auto Meter NEXUS gauges installed in the dash and wired up the sending units, control box and remote... I am running a boost, fuel pressure and oil pressure gauge.. I mounted the AEM UEGO gauge in an AM carbon fiber cup and installed it on the steering column... I installed the Greddy Profec B Spec II in the ashtray.... During some laps around the shop, I found the rear tires were rubbing slightly in a couple places... I adjusted the rear coil overs to bring the back end of the car up about an inch and used a mallet to roll the fender lips over where there was tire contact... The new ride height is pretty sweet... My car has a nice muscle car rake to it now... While on the lift for the suspension changes, I decided to throw the corner scales under the tires to get a weight on the car... Unfortunatly its heavier than I expected... It ended up weighing just under 2600 lbs... Almost everything is installed on the car that it will have when I race it... I am predicting a 2800 lb race weight with me in the drivers seat...

Right now the car starts very quickly with just a blip on the throttle... It settles into a nice idle and doesnt lope at all... although it has not been tuned yet, throttle response is good and it drives around the parking lot just fine... Next on the list is an alignment and then hopefully onto the dyno rollers... There are many other small things that need to be finished like IC pump wiring, mounting the solenoids and switches for the nitrous, mounting the boost control solenoid, finish looming the engine bay wire harness, mounting the AEM EMS, AEM injector driver, AEM UEGO controller, MSD DIS 4, etc....

I am getting really close to a finished project :)
 
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