Well, I finally get my engine back together and in the car and now when I went to go break it in it started smoking oil out the exhaust. It doesn't do this that much when I'm giving it gas but when I let off the throttle the car gives off quite a bit of oil, it also smokes quite a bit when idling. Heres my build up list, JE pistons and rings, cometic headgasket, arp headstuds, nismo main bolts, eagle rods with arp bolts, new oem bearings, new oil pump/front cover, new rear main seal, etc... also the block was honed and was milled with the head. Now I didn't touch the head as far as replacing parts, though it ran fine before with that head on it. Well, after I noticed it was burning oil I took it back to my house and took out the plugs, and sure enough there was a good sized puddle of oil in each cylinder. Now the car still had decent power, its not like it didn't have compression. Needless to say I'm extremely pissed off right now, I put a ton of money and work into this engine and now this... If anyone has any ideas of what could be causing the oil to get into the cylinders on this fresh rebuild id appreciate any ideas before I haul it outa state and dish out even more money have a pro fix it. So far I think its either the rings or valve seals, but I'm sure there are other things that might cause it that I am unaware of. Thanks in advance... Oh and I'm running 10w30 mobil drive clean 5000, which is a non synthetic oil as far as I know.
Fresh rebuild, burning tons of oil!!! HELP!!!!
FC3SDrifter
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71 Posts
Well, I finally get my engine back together and in the car and now when I went to go break it in it started smoking oil out the exhaust. It doesn't do this that much when I'm giving it gas but when I let off the throttle the car gives off quite a bit of oil, it also smokes quite a bit when idling. Heres my build up list, JE pistons and rings, cometic headgasket, arp headstuds, nismo main bolts, eagle rods with arp bolts, new oem bearings, new oil pump/front cover, new rear main seal, etc... also the block was honed and was milled with the head. Now I didn't touch the head as far as replacing parts, though it ran fine before with that head on it. Well, after I noticed it was burning oil I took it back to my house and took out the plugs, and sure enough there was a good sized puddle of oil in each cylinder. Now the car still had decent power, its not like it didn't have compression. Needless to say I'm extremely pissed off right now, I put a ton of money and work into this engine and now this... If anyone has any ideas of what could be causing the oil to get into the cylinders on this fresh rebuild id appreciate any ideas before I haul it outa state and dish out even more money have a pro fix it. So far I think its either the rings or valve seals, but I'm sure there are other things that might cause it that I am unaware of. Thanks in advance... Oh and I'm running 10w30 mobil drive clean 5000, which is a non synthetic oil as far as I know.
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202 Posts
valve guides did you replace them??? could be a broken oil control ring or bad valve guides
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485 Posts
when i built my old ka i didnt line up the rings rite and it blew oil to... you might want to check your rings or valve guides
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278 Posts
did you put the rings and pistons in your self
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71 Posts
Yeah the whole build up was done by me and a friend that has built many engines in the past. I'm thinking we might have installed the oil rings the wrong way, though at the time everything seemed right. I'm thinking about just tearing it apart again and having a shop build it back up so I know its right.
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485 Posts
no dont tear it all apart this is what you do ---
1st pull all your spark plugs
2nd drop your oil pan
3rd unbolt all your crank shaft caps
4th unbolt all your conecting rods from your crank
5th pull your crank shaft out
6th pull all your pistons out
7th replace all the rings with new ones
THIS IS HOW I DID MINE you dont need to pull the whole thing apart i did it in one day
i put the ring gaps 1/4 apart from eachother making shure none of them lined up
to finish up just reverse steps 7-1
1st pull all your spark plugs
2nd drop your oil pan
3rd unbolt all your crank shaft caps
4th unbolt all your conecting rods from your crank
5th pull your crank shaft out
6th pull all your pistons out
7th replace all the rings with new ones
THIS IS HOW I DID MINE you dont need to pull the whole thing apart i did it in one day
i put the ring gaps 1/4 apart from eachother making shure none of them lined up
to finish up just reverse steps 7-1
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71 Posts
I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for the help so far guys.
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87 Posts
I think it is either the valve guides or the seals, cuz it only burns oil when vacuum is high, when the car is idling and right when you let off the throttle there is a lot of vacuum, pull the head and make sure that the valve seals are installed correctly.
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71 Posts
Most of my friends are thinking the same thing but I duno why the valve guides or seals would have went bad considering I didn't touch the head and it was in perfect shape before. Only thing I can think of is since the engine is new it has higher compression than my old one, and that may have caused the valve seals to go if they weren't in the greatest shape before. I'm leaning towards me installing the oil control ring the wrong way though. I've decided to just tear it apart and take it to my local machine shop and have them build it, I'm also going to have them take a look at the valve seals and guides while I'm at it. Thanks for the responses guys.
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278 Posts
you could have put the piston in backwards was the arrows on the piston heads facing the front of the car when you put them in?
if you put the pistons in backwards it would smash the piston squirters and break them... Ive been through that.
On my second build I had the machine shop hone/bore and do the bearings. After I put it all together and primed the oil pump it started up on the first crank and ran perfect. Im sure that any engine should start the same way if built properly.
My first engine was similar to yours. It blew alot of smoke under boost, but was fine when idling. The I thought it could have been bad valve seals so I replaced the head and it didnt make a diffrence. I had alot of blowby and that motor later had a bearing fail...
On my second build I had the machine shop hone/bore and do the bearings. After I put it all together and primed the oil pump it started up on the first crank and ran perfect. Im sure that any engine should start the same way if built properly.
My first engine was similar to yours. It blew alot of smoke under boost, but was fine when idling. The I thought it could have been bad valve seals so I replaced the head and it didnt make a diffrence. I had alot of blowby and that motor later had a bearing fail...
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71 Posts
The JE pistons don't have an arrow, they are placed in based on the cut outs for the valves, both intake and exhaust, and I'm 100% sure I did that correct. I think right now that its the oil control rings, ill figure it out and post what the machine shop tells me either tomorrow or wednesday when I take it down there. Thanks again guys
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5,148 Posts
isnt there a possibility it could just be a turbo? my friend's SR turbo had alot of shftplay so he swapped it with a "rebuilt" one. tons of blowyby. swapped to another turbo, problem solved. I'd just hate to see you do all this and it just be a turbo.
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I'm not 100% sure its not the turbo but I'm pretty sure it isn't. I had this turbo on the engine before I spun a bearing and decided to rebuild, and it didn't burn any oil or have oil in the combustion chamber then. The only chance it was the turbo is if somehow something happened to the turbo when I had it off, which I'm pretty sure nothing did.
What kind of crack are you smoking?
The pistons cannot come out the bottom...much less go back in. Dont make shit up and cause somebody a lot of extra work and heartache.
Even if they could it would take much longer than just pulling the motor.
It tried this theory to check my bearings because i spun one. Well it took like 8 hours just to get the upper oil pan off, and that is only possible by loosening the mounts and raising the motor anyway.
The motor only takes a few hours to pull, and a few hours to put back in and things are much easier to work on outside of the car.
Back to the main point
You might want to give it some time anyway, and let the rings seat and wear the crosshatch down. My friend new motor was burning oil and seems to have stopped or slowed.
As long as you keep your car full of oil it shouldnt do any real damage. So just give it some time and see what happens.
Also pull your plugs and see if any are oil coated, and if any are worse than the others.
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