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TheStartingLine

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Dynoed my car the other day for the first time ever. Did 4 pulls, 2 on pump gas, and 2 on race gas. It was a mustang dyno, the guy didnt hook up rpm's, just went off roll speed.I wish he would have hooked up rpm, because i think it would make it easier to read. I was having some back firing at higher boost. Could that be because of a boost of vacuum leak? Here are 3 graphs of my runs. Do these numbers sound about right for my mods? I am also at 4500 feet elevation. Also He was doing pulls in 5th Gear... I was thinking 3rd or 4th gear would be better...



RUN 1 Pump Gas 18psi. 317whp 319wtq
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RUN 3 110 octane 23psi. 339whp 332wtq
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RUN 4 110 octane 20psi. 322whp 312wtq
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Here is my mod list.

*Garrett GT2871R .86ar 56trim

*DeatschWerks 650cc injectors

*Z32 TT MAF

*Greddy Outlet pipe

*Drft stainless turbo lines

*RS-Enthalpy ecu retune

*Cometic Metal headgasket

*ARP Head Studs

*s15 silvia hlsd

*S13 SR20DET Redtop

*3" Motoria Cat Back

*Motoria Test Pipe

*Megan Racing Downpipe

*SSAC Turbo Dump

*Megan Racing Exhaust Manifold

*XS Front Mount Intercooler

*Greddy Type RS BOV

*Greddy Knock off Oil Pan

*Koyo Aluminum Radiator

*Nismo Radiator Cap

*Permacool 14" electric fan

*Nismo Motor & Tranny Mounts

*Aeromotive Adjustable FPR

*Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

*Excedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit

*Turbo XS MBC

*Z32 Fuel Filter
 
Whats your AFR reading through out the RPMs? I used to get popping at high rpm when i was running too high of fuel pressure and found my AFR was down at 9.5 Those are some pretty nice numbers on a Mustang Dyno. Some cams and intake manifold will help out alot. Im anxious to get my setup dynoed after i put on a new intake manifold.
 
Looks pretty nice.
Although I dont think he was in 5th gear. 5th runs to about 160ish @ 7000rpm and the dyno says it only ran to 125mph...

Anyway I would be kinda mad also if they didnt hook up the rpm. You kinda need that to tune it. Wideband is also good, but that often costs extra.
 
On the first dyno, it looks like it was detonating on the top end. The huge dips could also be detonation. The second graph looks like a lot of detonation, maybe the race gas was not mixed in the tank yet? The last dyno looks smooth, I am willing to be that there was no detonation.
 
its a mustang dyno and your at a moderatly high elevation id say your getting around 365hp or more and with a better tune you should see improvement without adding anything on your setup because what u have right now is efficent for around 380 might need new clutch tho i suggest rps max series also watch your injectors
 
At every dyno ive been to they use an exhaust pipe wideband O2 meter. Not as accurate as a dump pipe meter but better than nothing
You better not have a wideband in the dump pipe unless you plan on replacing the sensor every month, it needs to be at least 30 inchs from the exhaust outlets....

you should be able to hit 340-360ish with just the smaller a/r housing...
so 400= + shouldn't be a problem...

and mustang dyno's blow ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Dynoed my car the other day for the first time ever. Did 4 pulls, 2 on pump gas, and 2 on race gas. It was a mustang dyno, the guy didnt hook up rpm's, just went off roll speed.I wish he would have hooked up rpm, because i think it would make it easier to read. I was having some back firing at higher boost. Could that be because of a boost of vacuum leak? Here are 3 graphs of my runs. Do these numbers sound about right for my mods? I am also at 4500 feet elevation. Also He was doing pulls in 5th Gear... I was thinking 3rd or 4th gear would be better...
Which 2871 do you have? There are 3 different versions. One is rated at 400hp, one at 460 and one at 475. Do you know the model # on your turbo?
 
You better not have a wideband in the dump pipe unless you plan on replacing the sensor every month, it needs to be at least 30 inchs from the exhaust outlets....
This is absolutely false. You do not need to put the sensor 30" from the outlet. We run sensors in the dump pipes on all of the SRs, RBs and KAs that we have built, including my RB25 S13 with great results. The things that kill sensors are (1) moisture, (2) extremely high EGTs (pre-turbo) and (3) not letting the sensor warm up when you start the car. The sensors need to warm up completely before you start the car. Usually, this takes 10-15 seconds, depending upon which wide band unit you are using.

..you should be able to hit 340-360ish with just the smaller a/r housing...
so 400= + shouldn't be a problem...
It will spool faster with the smaller A/R exhaust housing, but will make less power. With cams, the power will pick up dramatically.

and mustang dyno's blow ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The ones that work properly are absolutely awesome. Mustang dynos more accurately show the power of the engine than do the Dyno Jets, since Mustang dynos actually load the car, Dyno Jets just spins a drum.
 
This is absolutely false. You do not need to put the sensor 30" from the outlet. We run sensors in the dump pipes on all of the SRs, RBs and KAs that we have built, including my RB25 S13 with great results. The things that kill sensors are (1) moisture, (2) extremely high EGTs (pre-turbo) and (3) not letting the sensor warm up when you start the car. The sensors need to warm up completely before you start the car. Usually, this takes 10-15 seconds, depending upon which wide band unit you are using.


I think this depends on which model wideband you are using. I have the aem wbo2 setup on my car and in the manual it says you need to place the sensor at a certain angle (i think between 45 and 135 degrees) and it also says that you need to put it at least 18(? not sure) inches after the turbo for it to work properly. Maybe thats just the aem though.

Anyway, looks like up top youre breaking up becasue of too much fuel or too much timing. Too much fuel could be because of a boost leak or just becasue of too much fuel. Get a wideband and something to tune with and your numbers will jump a nice amount.
 
This is absolutely false. You do not need to put the sensor 30" from the outlet. We run sensors in the dump pipes on all of the SRs, RBs and KAs that we have built, including my RB25 S13 with great results. The things that kill sensors are (1) moisture, (2) extremely high EGTs (pre-turbo) and (3) not letting the sensor warm up when you start the car. The sensors need to warm up completely before you start the car. Usually, this takes 10-15 seconds, depending upon which wide band unit you are using.

---HMMM, i have the aem ugeo and it states in the instruction manual that it needs to be at least 30 inchs from the turbo. Maybe you know more than the company that makes them????


It will spool faster with the smaller A/R exhaust housing, but will make less power. With cams, the power will pick up dramatically.

----NO SHIT.
 
You better not have a wideband in the dump pipe unless you plan on replacing the sensor every month, it needs to be at least 30 inchs from the exhaust outlets....
Not true, I have seen many stock mitsubishi setups where the o2 sensor is way less than 30 inches from the exhaust runners, if the 02 sensor has a heating circuit it should be fine as long as it is metering all the cylinders exhaust.
 
HMMM, i have the aem ugeo and it states in the instruction manual that it needs to be at least 30 inchs from the turbo. Maybe you know more than the company that makes them????[/quote]

I am not arguing with AEM on where they want you to install there o2 sensor but like I said many stock Mitsubishi setups (inculding the eclipse and evo) have the o2 sensor in the downpipe right after the turbo WAY less than 30 inches away. so is there 02 sensor more pussy than a stock mitsu?
 
My Innovate LM1 says to place the sensor like 2ft downstream but if you cant, they make an attachment like a heatsink to use for the heat. Theres really no sense to argue over an 02 sensor. Turbo hes using is the GT2871R .86 56trim. Using the mustang dyno, his numbers arent really that low since he still needs proper tuning. If he was on a dynojet, his numbers would probably be almost to 370whp.
 
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