[coilision]

coilison

 

[coilision]

stelet

 

[coilision]

reply

 

[coilision]

stelet

 

[sxshep]

I'll definitely try some of these out, specifically the MAF, plugs and timing ... as far as sea foam goes, has anyone run it in the oil just before changing it? I've heard of it being done but don't really wanna risk anything ... I've ran it through gas before though

Also, would bad compression also lead to a stuttering problem? And by bad, I mean 180-178-145-140 .. I should probably just say screw it and look around for a new(er) engine

 

[skell116]

my car pulls hard till about 4k then falls flat untill redline. its almost like it just revs, but its not the clutch slippin. i mean i had an integra ls and that pulled way harder. somethings not right here although the engine sounds fine

 

[danielson]

my car pulls hard till about 4k then falls flat untill redline. its almost like it just revs, but its not the clutch slippin. i mean i had an integra ls and that pulled way harder. somethings not right here although the engine sounds fine

oh man i know what your talking about. i had a 90 integra ls, compared to my 240sx my integra is a beast. i have been driving my 240 with the same problem, i call it the nissan variable power system. :rotflmao sometimes it pulls hard and feels extremely nice but 90% it feels pretty slow. even after many hours following the fsm trouble shooting, checking every sensor and following every wire to the ecu i have no luck in finding any sensor that is out of range per fsm tests. but yeah the ka is more of a low end torque engine wich is great for drifting but not so sporty like a honda engine which is very rev happy and feels great all the way to redline.

 

[blackproject18]

Looks like you are runnin' a little lean. Maybe the wrong heat index on the plugs. Might want to change accordingly.

 

[blackproject18]

Well, here's my scenario,

My Ka has to crank over about 4 or 5 times before it will fire. When it does fire, it runs REALLY rough until you tweak the thorttle and it will smooth out and idle fine for about 2-3 min and then the idle will decay until the engine shuts itself off.

I've been experimenting with removing the carbon canister and that didn't help the situation much. Vacuum caps made the situation much worse. I'd really like to just remove it if possible to save me from relocating it somewhere dumb (long story). I had to relocate the battery to the back of the car due to other needs for the space where the factory battery box and carbon caniater were placed. I want to upgrade the maf (especially that I am thinking that is the root of my problem) with one from a Caprice especially considering it has three wire hookup just like the KA24DE and it will directly accept a 3" hose coupling on each end. Some porting will be required but it comes apart into two halves exposing just the aluminum housing and removing the sensor vanes out of harms way.

Anyone have any other ideas? I have good fuel pressure, timing is set a factory settings, plugs are right heat index, but she is running REALLY RICH. No vac leaks, new EGR AIR TUBE, cleaned the Agsuki idle air sensor and installed entire new manifold gasket set, Auxiliary air intake is properly hooked up, new cap, new rotor button, new racing wires with MSD ignition (coil and box) removed the EAI valve,and ran all new vac lines in intake mani. I have a new coolant temp sensor i have to install tomorrow. I don't think that that will help, but worth a shot since the engine does idle slightly better when it warms up. Next is a TPS.

Also, My ECU refuses to throw codes. :12dunno I can unhook anything I want and makes no diff. No Check engine light. Imma try to pull codes again tomorrow. Maybe it will yield something. I'll post my findings.

Help would greatly be appreciated.

 

[Cadishma]

Have you checked the MAF and the wires to make sure nothing is grounding. try blowing out any dirt and crap there and the TPS sensor located on the throttle body. I would probably guess it is the MAF though if it is bogging. also check the fuel pump to make sure everything there is working.

I would first go to LKQ part company (a national company) pick up a MAF from there for 65 bucks or something and see if that fixes the problem.

 

[Cadishma]

a fuel cleaning wouldn't hurt either, i am sure you have done that, but after 60k on her, she starts to bog down. I notice when I get my friend to clean her up. she runs a whole lot smoother.

I agree with the guy below about the Integra's, they are nice, but the Nissan's always seem to take better liking to any tuning people give them. Where as the Acura motors other than the new block in the RSX's and civics, they seem to be a nightmare after turboing.

 

[danielson]

this is how mine runs. if i apply throttle evenly and smoothly it feels fine. i take it up to 5k rpms smoothly then hammer it and it just falls flat on its face. it still picks up speed but after it hesitates. my fuel pump is starting to whine a little on start up so i thinks crapping out on me.

 

[skell116]

this is how mine runs. if i apply throttle evenly and smoothly it feels fine. i take it up to 5k rpms smoothly then hammer it and it just falls flat on its face. it still picks up speed but after it hesitates. my fuel pump is starting to whine a little on start up so i thinks crapping out on me.

i have the exact same problem...it just totally flattens and sometimes i can hear my exhaust popping...these are pretty pathetic motors from the factory. but i mean she does have 120k on her :12dunno

 

[shiftngears]

thank you guys for having a thread like this :1bowdown . i have a 1990 with a header and just the cat with no exhaust lol. and im having a hesitation issue and i know that not having a full exhaust system on it makes a difference but would it make the car hesitate?

 

[xru5tyx]

thanks for the info guys...this really helps..gives me some ideason where to go for my issues. after i sea foamed my car it took away most of the idle issues...but still after i run it a little while it will hesitate alot when i put my foot on the gas the rpm drops below five hundred then kinda shoots up

my car has done that a few times, once because i put bad gas in it, so i just put more to dilute it, the other time was with my 280zx and it just fixed itself after it ran so idk what was wrong with it, but if you open the throttle you get more air, but if you dont get enough gas its gonna do that

 

[LEEBOB]

Seafoam= Auto Zone, in the Fuel additive section.

 

[ou811]

Theres been some useful information in here. Mayhaps someone could possibly help me out as well?
The issue with my car (When it was running) was that when you step on the gas the RPM's drop for a second before shooting up, idling a little rough between 1100-1500 even after adjusting the throttle, lots of backfire/smoke etc.

My mechanic and I have replaced:
Fuel filter: looked like it was 20 years old
In tank filter (sock): it had a hole in it and was also extremely old/dirty
Throttle position sensor
Fuel pressure regulator
Spark plugs: super fouled tips (car started, but wouldnt run after the spark plugs)

We sprayed carb cleaner on all the important lines to see if we could find a vacuum leak but it turned up nothing. However we did find a hose that had a clamp with no screw in it...once we got a screw and tightened it up the car ran a little better but that was back when she was still running. We also found that the wire running into the o2 sensor looks mad burnt, I just picked up some wire to rewire it but havent gotten to it yet, that wouldnt keep the car from running though would it?

At this point Ive also replaced all the fusible links in the passenger side fusebox in the engine bay
because they were blown, as well as the Acc. relay in the drivers side relay box. It has come to our attention that none of the relays in the drivers side pop/click anymore when the ignition is 'on'. So our next thoughts are an electrical problem...

 

[RFJCo]

Very comprehensive. Thanks for taking the time to figure all this out and post it.

 

[turismothomas]

i have that dreaded ebrake light on along with the buzzing noise. when i get on the gas the light sometimes goes off and the buz turns on. also my car has a lot of low hesitation and doesnt like to idle for the 1st couple seconds after start up. i checked fuses and found the engine cont fuse 10a is blown so i replaced it and it blew again right away. ill replace it and the problem goes away and everything is fine until i rev it up a tiny bit and the fuse blows. anyone know why the fuse keeps blowing? thanks

I have an 89 that the e brake light did that. if you remove the center console / armrest you will see the little sensor that triggers the light they somtimes bend from hard e braking or wear and tear, most of the time like mine you can bend the metal back that preeses the sensor or tighten a loose conection if not get a sensor from a junk 240. hope this helps it wont do anything for the hesitation that sounds like a short in the wire harnes, you might of melted two wires near the motor or exhaust manifold and now they make contact.

 

[JDM_Love]

my 91 240sx has a wineing nose behind the engine, it goes away after 3k rpm, my car seems 2sec laggy when i shift gear and feels really slow and it just dies right before i come to a complete stop (dies right under 2k rpm) any suggestion? i know 1 it could be vaculm leak, but also timing? i checked my ground but seems clean idk anything else?