Wonderful! Thank you, it's very basic knowledge, but a very much needed addition. Thanks bro. :thumbsup

 

just trying to help out... if anybody has good tips on how to use bondo then please add them.

thanks again...let me know if this anformation helped anybody

 

wow thanks for info i no i will eventually need this lol

 

when using bondo, don't apply it over 1/4" thick, it will crack.
you want to use a flexible putty knife, and remember, this stuff is evil, a little bit goes a LONG way. you want to sand down the contact surface first, and hit it with alcohol to clean it too.
don't let water hit it.
prime it as soon as it dries.

that's my basic knowledge, it's really easy to use bondo, but a lot of people don't know how.

 

please people ITS NOT BONDO its called body filler... bondo is a brand name that has made the public think that all bodyman are drywallers..im a bodyman and i hate BONDO anyway if anyone has any ?? about bodyfiller plz pm me and i will be happy to help

 

alex: At this point it doesn't matter. what do you call a tissue? A tissue or a kleenex.

 

alex: At this point it doesn't matter. what do you call a tissue? A tissue or a kleenex.

Agreed.

 

bondo brand is SHIT and its like comparring 99cent walmart motor oil to mobil 1 syn.BONDO sinks real bad and also pinholes and just flakes off after time i guesss i was trying to say is dont use bondo brand spend a little extra $$ and get a better product it will save you time and money and will make for a better finished product ...and for small dents just use a spot putty not filler.......... much less work

 

dont put too much or too little hardener. I see too many people with gray or dark red body filler. Mix it up all the way so that it is one color.
To tell how much hardener u need, just go across the filler with the hardener in a straight line (Like putting a straight line in the middle of a circle)

 

i use regular bondo and my work always comes out nice

 

use the fibersand, that shit is rock hard i've popped it with a hammer and it didnt crack. holds up pretty well to weather too, the bit i did has been sitting out unpainted for almost 3 months and still looks like the day i put it on.

 

u dont sand in circular motions, u sand in criss-cross motions.

 

you sand in tha way the panels are goin is what i was always told. an after ive sanded down the filer i use this dolphin top coat stuff. it just makes for a smoother finish

 

in my auto body class weve been told for every 1 inch of "bondo" use 1/4 to 1/2 of hardner. and u sand criss cross so u dont have grooves in the bondo

 

forgot to add, do not add filler on the car while the car is cold.(filler gets warm when it dry's so it would pop off or it would not stick to the car if the car is cold and the filler is hot.) the filler gets to about 130 degrees so you should apply your filler in warm weather.

if you want to cover up rust holes:
1. prep the area your going to fill.
2. use a pick hammer and hammer down the rust area lightly.
3. use fiberglass filler first, sand(grit to go by... 180, 240, 360) smooth then add your normal filler over that.
4. add more filler if needed to get the panel straight/smooth.
5. after its all straight and smooth, you can start spraying your primer over the sanded area.

ill add some more stuff later.

 

ok..here goes.

Get the better filler, Bondo makes it, but it comes in a goldish can instead of the red kind, much harder and better quality. You can tell in the sanding process.
1. Sand down the area/s to BARE METAL before doing ANYTHING with the filler.
2. wipe clean the are with mineral spirits or any other cleaning agent.
3. mix filler with hardening agent. (its better to put less than you think so you have more time to work with it)
4. Let it dry, don't jump the gun and sand too quickly.
5. Get a block(something to mold to the cars shape) and wrap the sandpaper around it(I use 180grit).
6. Once I get the desired shape, I use 320grit(wetsand)
7. wipe down again with cleaning agent and spray with epoxy primer.
8. fin

 

so is it bad to leave the bondo in the rain before its painted? i just bondoed over some rust under the drivers side mirror and left it for the night and the next day it poured all day. will it still be fine or do i have to do it over?

 

depends on what filler you used.

if you used fiberglass filler then you dont have to worry, if you used normal filler then you might have to remove it and start over.(normal filler is very porous, it absorbs in moisture) if it hasnt lifted or started to pin hole(you would see holes in the filler like if someone poked it with a needle)then you should be fine.

just move the car somewhere like the garage or something where water wont get into it.

 

you filled over rust...:nono:

 

If Anyone is going to try it can you please post pictures?

 

When using your standard filler, after it starts to harden but still a little soft, you can use a tool that looks like a chesse grater (hell, I think thats what they call them). It'll take out the lumps and smooth it down faster. After you get most of the excess off, let it harden and sand in a criss-cross fashen. Using the cheese grater tool makes final sanding much faster.

 

Sandpaper info-

Lower number = rougher. 220 grit can sand off your skin.

Higher number, finer. we use 1100 grit for wetsanding.

There isn't a single bit of body filler on my car. nor is there a single ding in the bodywork. :-D

 

wow... i thought just about everybody knew how to use bondo.. now i see i might be wrong.. STICKY!!!

 

For small dents or waves in body you can use a 2 part polyester filler right over 180 grit sanded paint. Don't need to go to bare metal. It's called Glaze Coat by Evercoat. I use it all the time.

 

so i wanna take off the stock spoiler from my 93 se i was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to fill the holes to make the rear hatch flush and smooth