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Changing out suspension bushings

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13K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  carps13guy  
#1 ·
So, yeah, i just bought the car, a couple of weeks ago, and the feels pretty bad on bumps... especially the rear end... when the front goes over an uneven surface, its fine.. once the back goes over... all hell breaks loose. the car shakes side to side. I initially thought it was the shocks, so i replaced them, and i guess, with the added alignmnt issues from installing new shocks, which i have yet to send it in for.. it has become worst. So could it be my bushings? it just feels awful, almost feels like the car would just spin out if i was going fast enough. looked under the car, and i can't physically see anything not connected right. Car has got 170k on the chassis and suspension parts... any ideas?
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Nissan 240sx Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit

^ those.

My question is how do these install? ive never tackled bushings before.
you have to press out the old ones and press the new ones in. i did the entire front and rear suspension with energy suspension bushings and man, i love it! now, if i can get off my lazy ass and install my subframe collars, hrmmm...

btw op, my car did the same thing as yours. when the rear hit a man hole, the rear would just move side to side. after the bushing install, the car no longer did that.

another thing you can do is re torque all the suspension hardware.
 
#8 ·
yup. i burn all my bushings out. its far easier than pressing them out. and you dont risk bending your oe arms either. but i use a torch head on a propane bottle. nothing fancy. just get a knife and cut the bushing. so that when you torch the bushing it catches fire and you dont heat up your oe stock metal susp. components. should get something that looks like this:
Image
 
#10 ·
you dont necessarily need to remove the front lower control arm in order to replace the bushing. the energy suspension bushing for the FLCA is 3-piece so all you do is remove the bolt/nut from the front cross-member/subframe, remove tension rod from FLCA, twist the arm out, torch. then you just assemble the 3pc bushing together. same goes for the tension rod.

as for the rear lower control arm, its just two bolts/nuts and the ball joint also sway bar end link. if you dont plan on replacing the ball joint, i would recommend getting *this* tool to separate the joint and the upright. sorry, i dont remember the tool name. the early 90s sentra ball joins are interchangeable btw. i replaced mine with MOOG, it has a grease fitting so i can grease when need be.
 
#13 ·
#15 ·
ehhh isis... get PBM!!!! even peak performance is good. SPL/Battle Version too. ISIS, ehhh only if you on a budget. Nothing wrong with isis though, i like their other products. I personally run their short shifter and im satisfied with it. but as far as suspension... its cheap

Due to alignment issues with my ride height and stock arm allowances, i will be switching to PBM. For those of you that plan on running energy suspension bushings with coilovers, think again. Setting your alignment with a lowered car with stock control arms is next to impossible. I do my own alignments and the stock adjustment is just too little. My current camber in the rear is -3.5 and i can't get it any better. Ideally, i want to run at most -2, but impossible to get to with stock arms.
 
#16 ·
^ werd stinky. isis doesnt use quality spherical bearings. where as battle version & peak performance use aurora spherical bushings which are the metric industry standard for excellence. and spl uses qa1 spherical bushings, which are a equivalent standard grade to the metric aurora. pbm doesnt state what bearings they use. but they are quality non the less. & the pbm bushings come with sealed caps & their toe arms are a must have if you want to slam your ride.

from experience, i have peak performance arms & love the quality. i have friends who run pbm & spl and enjoy their adjustable suspension as well. so just dont cheap out on arms by megan racing, circuit sport, isis, godspeed ect. and you'll be good. you get what you pay for