Tried adjusting the clutch pedal yet???

 

Please explain a little more on adjusting the clutch pedal and why this might be it, thanks.

 

Check the Factory Service manual for adjustments...

Your synchros are stopping the gears from engaging with the engine running.

 

try re-bleading your clutch. The test would be disable your neutral safety switch and with the car off put it into gear. Attempt to start, if it moves then all is good "Just have clutch issues. Is the throwout beating on the correct way ? {Tranny --> ) <--Engine}that is the way the bearing goes.

 

I put the throwout beaing on so that when it is up against the pressure plate the rotating half of the bearing is up against it. I just remembered something though. When you take of your shifter there is a spring in one of the holes. What is this spring for because I think I forgot to put it back in......

 

check your pedal geometry.

make sure it's installed properly, then adjust as needed.

 

Ok guys I talked with several auto techs and they all said the same thing, put the spring back in and it will shift just fine. Heres the new problem, I can't seem to find the spring I took out. So if anyone has an old beat up manual tranny that I could buy the spring under the shifter off of you that would be great. PM me if you can get me this spring. Thanks.

 

What spring are you talking about? I just had mine out, I don't recall any spring. Do you mean the big C-clip that holds the shifter ball in the trans?

 

Ok when looking down at the sifter there are 6 bolts holding it on. On the left hand side starting from the bottom to the top near the second hole counting from the bottom there is an extra hole that should have a compressed spring that when you take your shifter off that will be sticking out of that hole by about a 1/4in or so. That the the preload check ball spring. It applies pressure to the check ball to tell the syncros that the car can shift.

 

All that spring does is give the shifter the neutral feel, in the center of the shift pattern. It's about a foot away from the sychros.
There's a easier way to get the shifter off than taking that plate off. There's a single c-clip right above the shift ball, take it out and the shifter lifts right up.

 

the spring he's talking about doesn't even touch the shifter. it holds down a check ball.

 

The check ball touches the shift rod, that the shifter sets in, in the tailhousing. That spring along with the 2 on each side is what makes the shifter go to the center of the pattern when you put the car in neutral.

 

To get back to your real problem, I think like the others,your clutch isn't disengaging far enough. Either the linkage is out of adjustment, or the master cylinder or slave cylinder is bad, or all are a little off.
I've had the same problem, only when the car got hot though. Just changing fluid made it better, insulating the fluid lines helped a little more. But replacing the master cylinder cured it'

 

Ok thank you for clearing that up, so I could in fact measure the hole and get a replacement spring to go in there or buy the HKS shift return spring kit to fix that spring missing. And I'll adjust the clutch pedal and re bleed the clutch line on saturday to see if that works if not then I will replace the MC, becasue it was the only used part that I put on becides the trany.

 

is your clutch even completely installed? as in, is it hooked up? when the car is off you can move the car in and out of gear without the clutch pressed in...... (at least on my 240)

i think maybe its just out of adjustment and no engaging. i say put your car in gear, and keep the clutch pushed down to the floor, to press down the microswitch, and try to start your car. if it jumps, your clutch isnt hooked up or working.

my 2 cents

 

 

Thanks to everyone that helped out. The car is now running and shifting like a dream. I checked the pedal height and that all checked out so I re-bleed the clutch 3 more times. It looks like there must have been an air bubble still in the line. All in all the swap took 3 weeks to complete and the total came to around $800.
Below is a price list for what I put in...
Tranny-$20
Flywheel & Clutch-$200
Drive Shaft, Tranny Support, Clutch Pedal, Master Cylinder, Interior Trim-$200
Slave Cylinder-$40
Short Shifter-$70
Rear Main Seal and Fluids-$40
Speed Sensor for tranny-$70
Bolts and Nuts-$40
Throwout Bearing-$40
Throwout Bearing Houseing & Fork Arm Retaining Ring-$60