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DIY 90-95 3.8l Taurus Elec Rad Fan Install/Mech Fan Repl for S14 using stock relays

30058 Views 113 Replies 39 Participants Last post by  Ralliart4
Ok guys, this is for all of you who didn't help me out when I needed some sort of reference guide to installing my Taurus Fan in my S14. This can also be used to install other electric fans using the stock relays by changing the fuse to fit according to the fan amp usage. It's also possible that this will work with an S13 that has a KA24DE in it.

Got a pic of the fan now, just so you guys don't get confused:

This is the fan from the 90-95 3.8l Taurus. It is a single fan with dual speeds of up to 3800cfm.

First of all, installing the fan this way will allow you to use the stock Hi and Low Relays and not have to use a rigged switch to turn your fans on and off. Also, installing the fan using this method will completely replace the stock A/C fan as well as the pulley fan. Using this installation will also turn the fan on when you switch the A/C on and will also allow the fan to kick on using the stock temperature sensor. Basically, once you install this fan you don't need to worry about anything more than the relays or fuses to keep your fans running.

I'm going to cut and paste some instructions from other websites to simplify things. There are also some pics I have added at the end of the post of the final installation I did on a Koyo Radiator.

To start things off here is a list of tools and parts you will need:

1 90-95 3.8l Taurus Radiator fan w/complete factory wires and connectors
10mm Wrench or 10mm Socket & Ratchet
1 Regular sized Flathead screwdriver
1 Small Flathead screwdriver
1 50 Gauge JCAS Type Fuse
8 Feet of 10 Gauge Wire
1 Small Box of 10 Gauge Female Quick Connects
1 Small Box of 10 Gauge Butt Connectors
1 Small Box of 10mm Washers
1 10 Gauge Eyehole Connector
1 Hack Saw
1 Pair of Needle Nose Pliers
1 Box of Wire Loom
1 Wirestripping/Crimping Tool
1 Set of Radiator Zip Ties
Possibly other tools depending on your car year...

1. Take off the stock radiator clutch fan and fan shroud as follows (this is from

This is perhaps the most difficult step in the process, but you’ll be surprised how your engine will look afterward. Take your air intake off (just enough to free up the radiator shroud) and pull off your top radiator hose (do it fast enough and point it up and you shouldn’t lose that much coolant. Once those are free and the shroud is more or less bare you have two options: first, on the bottom of your fan shroud Nissan has a cut away section that will allow you to remove the shroud while the mechanical fan is still attached, or drop the fan (6 10mm nuts, and yeah, they are in there so be ready to spend a little time on them.) and then undo the shroud bolts, and pull out the shroud.
Once the shroud and fan are out it’s a matter of clean up. Put the 10 mm nuts back on the water pump pulley and put a few small washers on the plastic screws that hold the electric fan to the radiator.

After this, top off your radiator fluid.

2. Put the Taurus fan up to your radiator for a test fit. Get a good feel of the location where you will put it. You shouldn't have to disconnect the radiator hose again since the Taurus fan is not as long as the stock shroud. Set the bottom of the Taurus fan on the radiator directly where the fins end at the bottom. You should notice that the fan matches exactly heightwise to the stock radiator, but in order to get the Taurus fan to fit in the long notch located at the base of the radiator fins you will need to make some notches in the base of the Taurus fan shroud.

3. Pull the Fan out and inspect the lower portion of the shroud. You should notice that for the most part there is a nice straight edge and only about 4 places where notches need to be cut in order to clear that lower radiator lip. These places are:

The 2 lower round edges of the fan shroud
The far end of the fan shroud where it bends at a 90 degree angle
The spot where the bottom of the shroud doesn't fit into the radiator notch

Sorry I can't get more descriptive, but when you look at the fan and the lower area of the radiator you should understand.

Cut the notches out with the hack saw and pry off the plastic with the needle nose pliers. Test fit the fan back against the radiator and check that it fits in the notch.

Now look at the top of the fan and see where the original fan shroud bolt holes line up to the new fan. Mark and cut small notches in the fan to clear the original bolt threads. Put about 2 or 3 10mm washers on the bolts to fill up the gap left from removing the original fan shroud. Line up and attach the new fan using the original bolts and washers.

4. Separate the stock Taurus Fan wiring connectors so that you can connect the wiring while keeping the fan installed. (This is why I said to make sure you have the entire Taurus fan wiring with connectors.) You will notice that there are 3 wires from the fan to the female connector and 5 wires from the male connector to wherever it connected to. These wires are as follows:

1 Brown Wire w/ Yellow Stripe
1 Brown Wire w/ Orange Stripe
1 Solid Black Wire
2 Other black wires that won't be used. (Clip these off short and tape it up.)

The Brown Wire w/ Yellow Stripe is the high speed wire and the one with the orange stripe is the low speed wire. The black wire is for ground.

Cut off about 8 inches of the 10 gauge wire and strip both ends. On one end hook up the eyehole connector using the crimp tool, and on the other end hook up a butt connector. Then strip the end of the black wire and attach the butt connector to it. You will need to find a good grounding location for the eyehole connector. I used the bolt where the passenger side radiator fan bracket sits.

Fold the remaining 10 gauge wire in half against itself and then make one side around 4-6 inches longer. Cut the wire at the bend so that you have 2 unequal length pieces and strip both ends of each wire. At one end of each of the wires crimp on a butt connector, strip the ends of the brown wires, and crimp the longer wire to the Brown Wire w/ Orange stripe while crimping the other wire to the Brown Wire w/ Yellow stripe. At the other end of the now extended wires crimp on a female quick disconnect. **Make sure that the connectors do not have any plastic insulation on them as this will get in the way of the next step.**

5. At this point you can plug the Taurus fan connectors together and route the wires around the battery and into the stock fuse box. Open the fuse box by removing the cover. Start by taking out the fuse/relay trays (Make sure that you properly pop out the fuse/relay trays using the flathead screwdriver.) There are little tabs along the edges of the trays that can be moved with a smaller flathead to release them. Once freed, locate the radiator Hi and Lo relays. **Be real gentle here because these tabs can break easily.** Remove the relays using the flathead screwdriver to move the tab. Set the relays aside, pick a socket, and use the flathead screwdriver to release the relay socket. The socket should then slide out through the bottom of the tray. Now you will need to remove the white plastic piece at the bottom of the socket using the flathead screwdriver to pry the tabs. Once the tabs have been released the white plastic guard should slide out from the socket, move it a few inches down the wires so that you can access the inside of the socket. Now you will need to locate the #3 connector of the socket by looking at the prong side of the relay. Once identifying the #3 connector, use the small flathead screwdriver to pop the connector out of the socket. Pull the old connector wire out of the white plastic guard. Set that old connector under the wires in the original fuse box as it won't be used anymore and won't have any current running through it. Now route the new wire through the white plastic guard and plug the female quick connector in the place where the original one was (Make sure the connector goes in as far as possible.) Reconnect the white plastic guard and test fit the relay in to make sure the new connector doesn't come out. Once that's done, take out the relay and replace the socket in the tray. Plug the relay in, and repeat the same thing for the other relay socket. With those done, you will need to locate the stock 30 amp rad fan fuse and replace it with the 50 amp one (All 240's that I've seen come with the JSRC type fuses. Make sure the 50 amp one you have is the same type as the one in your car.) You may have to bend the prongs a little bit to get the new fuse in, do it and pop that sucker in there.

With all that done, you should be ready to test out your new fan. Just go back and make sure all the wires and connectors have been attached and connected before starting your engine. If all has been done correctly, the fan should come on low when the A/C is turned on and also when the engine gets to a certain temp. Hi only comes on when the engine gets hot, and with this new fan you shouldn't ever get there.

Hopefully others find this guide helpful and try to help out other 240sx enthusiasts. Sorry about not having many pictures, but I don't have any webspace. - Ball Boy Gordon

Radiator Zip Ties

Fan Preliminary Fitment

Clearance Comparison

Drill Holes for Radiator Zip Ties

Verify Hole Alignment

Line Up Zip Ties

Zip Tie Inserted

All Ties Inserted, Ready To Complete Zip Tie Fastening

Mount the Zip Tie Pads, then the Fasteners

Trim the Extra Part of the Zip Ties and Mount the Radiator. Ignore the lame fiberglass covered intake and wire up the fan.
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yea, i helped him install it, The wiring was quite interesting, Once we got the relays out, everything cleared up, and installation was a breeze.. installation of the fan itself was pretty easy, some small trimming of the bottom was needed to fit the lip of the bottom of the radiator.. we had the OEM pig tail wiring from the ford, as well as wiring on the fan, so we have a complete OEM look to our install, and let me tell you, this thing moves air..
any idea wat differences there would be for the s13(besides the obvious)
The fuse box is pretty much the same from what I understand, and almost everything else from what I understand. I'm just not completely sure about the placement of the relays and such. The way I wrote this, it should be able to work for any KA24DE though. Anyone who feels capable enough to do this should be able to do the minor modifications necessary to fit it on the S13. So far, I haven't found a better and more "stock" way to install aftermarket electric fans.
why not just install an temp sensor that completes the circut when to hot, and get power from the ignition so that it cant stay on when the cars off? seams easy to me tho i havent done it like you have.
The temp sensors run separately from your ECU, and aren't as accurate as the one in your engine. I may have done what you are suggesting but I could not find a power source from the ignition. Additionally, running from an ignition power source could overload another circuit and cause problems. The way that I've run it there is a fuse in between, and the stock ECU tells the fans when to come on. You don't have to worry about the temp sensor falling off or kicking on too often. Plus it gives a nice stock look.
It doesnt have to be from a sho taurus. its any taurus from 90-95 that has the 3.8engine. Not just the sho. The models with the 3.0 had dual fans but the 3.8L models had the fan pictured above.
You're right, but from what I understand a Taurus with a 3.8l engine is usually an SHO.
oddly enough i have the exact same fan.. but i found it in an escort (modded escort?)
fan cost me 20$ and 10$ for all othe other parts
(1 50 Gauge JCAS Type Fuse
8 Feet of 10 Gauge Wire
1 Small Box of 10 Gauge Female Quick Connects
1 Small Box of 10 Gauge Butt Connectors
1 Small Box of 10mm Washers
1 10 Gauge Eyehole Connector)

anyway.. the biggest problem i have is finding the fan relays.. where in the motherf***er are they...
any help would well.. help..
i have a 1990 sohc and the fusebox by the battery has only one thing that looks like a high/low controller.. but im not even sure its for the fans,,,
it says this on the top "h/l ret cont" and anyone who says the one im looking for is to the right of the one i just mentioned.. the cover says "n&p" and the space under it is empty..
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There is a sticker on the lid of the fuse box that should let you know which is which. Let me do some searching though.
Oh sweet! You guys are figuring this out for sohc s13? When you get all the kinks out be sure to post back here and clue the rest of us in. That'd be awesome!
It should be almost exactly the same thing. All you need to do is identify which relays are the Hi and Lo for the radiator fan, and which Fuse you need to replace with a 50 amp.
I have looked all over the factory service manual and have had no luck finding an A/C fan relay or radiator fan relay. The only thing I can suggest is downloading the manual at: and try and find that relay. What you need to do is just identify which relay is sent the signal from the ECU at a certain temp to turn on the fan. This manual is for all KA24E models so it should have the information from the stanzas and stuff. You might need to take some of the relays and wiring from the Stanza in order to get it to work.
Found the relay, It is combined with the A/C relay. It looks like it might be more difficult to get this to work for the KA24E.
^^^Wow this guy is really helpful. I love the sense of community in these forums.

So the relay is combined with the A/C relay....wouldn't that just mean that the fan turns on when the air conditioning is turned on? Isn't that what its supposed to do?

What about a manual switch. Would there be any harm in running the fan full blast the entire time the car is running whether it hit its critical temperature or not?

The only draw back I can think of is that you would need to keep your fan running for a while after the car is turned off. Maybe a 15 min timer could be hooked up?
Yeah, you could actually hook up the low fan speed to be turned on by a switch and then have the hi fan speed to come on when the A/C comes on. YOu will need to make sure that you put that 50 amp fuse in the right place though and also make sure that the existing wiring can support that kind of amperage. If you want to hook up a switch for the radiator for on low you will need to get more of the 10 gauge wire and make sure the switch can support 50amps of power as well.
fan temp

Very good write up thank you, I have seen many of these fans at junkyards and thought that they would be a good one to use.
I do have a question, do you know at what temp the ecu would turn on the fan Lo speed and high speed? and will the charging system keep up with that much draw?
Thanks again!
Charging system has been fine since the fan doesnt run all the time, and I haven't had any die outs. The Lo speed kicks on just a little bit above the C on the temp gauge. As for the Hi I have no idea. It's never needed to use Hi before.
Im a lil confused when you said that the lo speed kicks on with the ac, does that mean i have to turn the ac on for it to work? or it turns on some how by it self.... thanks
Drift_Stylez said:
Im a lil confused when you said that the lo speed kicks on with the ac, does that mean i have to turn the ac on for it to work? or it turns on some how by it self.... thanks
Both. When the A/C kicks on, the lo fan speed turns on, and also when the temp gets to a certain level the lo fan will turn on.
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