it's easy, get a new shell, you can find a clean one for $2000, done....

 

I am doing this same thing tomorrow, i have heard that nissan will give you replacment rails but what i am doing is cutting out the rusted rail(which is in the same spot as yours) then i am using an angle grinder to get it all smooth and then use 1/16 sheet metal and tig weld it in.

 

Three options:

1) Find a donor car and cut and weld in the new parts.
2) If you're lucky, Nissan can get you new parts. Since S13s are quickly approaching 20, the supply of OEM parts is way down. Believe me, I know.
3) Fab up your own "framerail." I wouldn't reccomend this, since you really want the metal to be uniform (if it's too stiff, the rest of the frame will bend around the welds and weaken the frame, and if it's too weak, then the patch itself will just bend).

Removing the engine will make it a lot easier. Most people who do frame work are muscle car guys and they usually ave the car totally stripped to nothing. If the rust is more than 3 inches long, you may need to tack in a few braces to prevent the frame from warping (which can easily happen, espeically since Japanese cars use relatively thin sheetmetal).

 

thanks for the replies.

I did not even think about how thicker metal would make the frame too stiff and thus affect the rest of the car. Thank you so much for that info.

think ill start looking for some replacment parts or doner cars now

Thank you all

 

so then what would be cheaper if i have 2 running engines<1 in a rusted 240, what would be cheaper find a shell or get all the rust fixed?

 

Sleeve the rail. Pop rivet the sleeve on. It's the cheapest and most effective. Nissan couldn't find me rails and good luck to you if thats what you'd like to do. I say hit the rusty rails with rust converter of some sort then treat your sleeves and pop them on.

Good rails from a clean chassis is a great idea if you can make sure the chassis doesn't flex while you remove the old ones and put the new ones on. and even if you could do that your going to have a mess of drilled out spot welds to clean up on your chassis and the donor rails.

Don't bother pulling the motor unless your rust has spread to the engine bay. Just pull your exhaust/dp and heat shields. While your down there fix your floor board as it will be rusting at the joint with the firewall.

If you can't find someone to make you sleeves I can try to find my contact for the guy who offered to make me some for my hatchbacks.

 

thanks bb4 so it is worth it to get a friend to weld a brace and cut out the old rusted metal and treat it?

 

Not neccessarily a brace. Just fab up a good gauge sheetmetal "cover"(sleeve). Do a google search for Z31 frame sleeves. Thats where i got the concept from. Treat the rusty crap and don't even bother cutting it out. because if you cut some you might as well cut all and if you cut all then order some new rails and wait for nissan to grace us.

 

haha true so use something like rust bullet or something first then get someone to fab a sleeve on it becuase im worried about maryland inspetion haha

 

Here dude. Bad Dog Parts -- Datsun Z Car Parts and Accessories

 

Wow.. that looks like it will fit right on..

Has anyone contacted them to see if they had experiences with s13 fitment?

 

I know nothing about Maryland inspection. I'd ask someone at an inspection place about this first and try to get something in writing then pull the trigger.

 

true i hear ya i guess i should take pics and go to the mva or tis place we got up the road in easton

 

Well if the rusted area is long, then you risk warping the chassis, especially with the weight of the engine and everything. And make sure you empty the fuel tank and lines. You will be welding nearby them.

 

well mine and his rust spots are all up towards the engine bay, where the rail makes its bend upward, mineis worst on one side then itis on the other haha but i understand what yoursaying i will probably end up doing that anyways (firefighter intentions) haha!:rotflmao

 

It may be a pain in the assto empty the fuel, but it's a shit load better than stop drop and roll!

 

thats super true haha

 

Wait a few more years. Someone will have the same kind of site, except for S13s.

 

yeah my only concern about all this is cost for fixing the frame haha i might be able to get away with my buddy getting them to ever look it for now till i get it fixed and i have no idea how the last guy i bought it from got it inspected unless the rust magicly appeared haha

 

I dunno why the rust is a big deal for inspections anyway. Where I live they don't even check for it. The inspection is basically look at the VIN on the dash and check the odometer and that's it. LOL

 

well arent you lucky haha hang on i will post what my fing rails look like there nasty

 

ok so heres what im dealing with it sucks

that was the passenger side front fender
THESE are the frame rails i have to deal with haha

so what you guys think?

 

The rocker/rear fender area will need to be sourced from another car but you can prolly still sleeve the frame rail. Gas lines are on the pass side. I would remove them altogether.

 

yewah im just worried about cost haha

 

Just had mine done up here in Canada 3months ago at a body shop and it cost me $2K. Body shop welded three spots in the Frame rails and rocker panels that were rusted almost through. We also welded the floor that had rusted through and had to re-build the front wheel wells. If you can do it with a friend and get te right tickness in metal than do it. Before investing any money - here's what to look for:

1. Complete inspection of the underbody including the driver/passenger floors. Remove the carpet if you have to. At first I didn't feel good about it, but now glad I did.
2. Remove wheels inspect all areas of the wheel wells
3. From the pictures you posted, you'll need to check the frame rails also.

Try to do all this witout jacking the car or at least take it some place where you can drive the car over a pit or on rails. My mechanic was great about it. He insisted on not raising by the frame since the car was weak.

Good luck

 

Did you get any work done on the unibody? One of my rear quarter panels has a tear in it (how that happened I don't know. It was there when I bought the car), and I'd like to get it fixed before it causes any major rust.

FYI, the states that check for rust are smart. You ever look at some of the heaps some people drive?

 

FYI, the states that check for rust are smart. You ever look at some of the heaps some people drive?

Hey! You're getting awfully close to the mark there. J/K But seriously the rust on my 89 is so bad I had to buy another shell to put the car into. Getting ready to start on that as soon as I get some sort of beater truck.:thumbsup

 

If you're looking for some "how to.." on the rust repair and welding then there's also some pretty good stuff on nicoclub. Go to forums.nicoclub.com and use their google search engine to type frame rail repair and you'll see alot of info.
Here's something to get you started: Sock's Big 240sx Project Thread: 240SX Forum / 180SX Forum / Silvia Forum: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub

I hate directing you to another site but there's alot of good info all over the internet.