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Looking good! My RB was over boosting a little when I first swapped it causing it to cut out. Do you have a boost controller installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
No boost controller. Got the interior 90% back together, pulled out the sunroof and replaced the seal. I tried a 3M spray on adhesive along the edge of the glass and I'm thinking I should have probably used something else. It's like a spray on rubber cement. I might have to clean it all off and try again with something else.



The lifters aren't ticking any more. Seems pretty solid, I haven't noticed any smoke on startup or when driving it.

https://youtu.be/F6xdZI4UDPs
 

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Just get a manual boost controller and it should clear up your over boost. I bought one off eBay for $15 and works just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
In this situation where the turbo is too free flowing on the intake and exhaust side I don't believe a boost controller can lower my boost. I'm going to install a nipple into the turbo compressor outlet and plumb it straight to the WG. A manual boost controller basically restricts the boost pressure allowing the wastegate to stay closed longer/more. I need the opposite and hopefully a larger, more direct, wastegate boost reference line does the trick.

Lesson Learned: Don't use spray on adhesive for rubber seals on glass windows. Now I need to spend an hr or two removing all the 'glue' with acetone.

Sunday, I will be replacing the lug nuts and adjusting the coil overs for height and spring pre-load, it seems really bouncy.

I also found that the kouki tail light bulb sockets were drilled and the bulbs are held in place by duct tape. The e-brake cable seems stretched, maybe it can be adjusted. The hatch release/open lever feels worn out. I need a shift boot with the thing on the bottom. The ECU needs to be mounted. The front drivers headlight seems wobbly/flappy and needs adjustment. The drivers fender needs to be aligned and bolted on. Lots to do but I'm going to start daily driving it next week. Hopefully the weather starts getting better.
 

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^^this. Thank you!

Closed it to .028 cleared it up a lot! Could this be indication of weak coils?

Might try .025 and see if it completely clears it up.
If coils are functioning to spec and still having issues with spark, then it's just a matter of closing the gap. You're good to go

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Closed it in to .024 seemed just as bad. Checked timing it was at about 5deg. Put it up to 14, all good now. Should have checked the timing, but figured it should have been set since I hadn't touched it. Wrong. Should I run 16-17 with 93 octane?

Headed to DEQ tomorrow, wish me luck! I still got more shit to fix and clean up but it's driveable. Will post up some videos and pictures here soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
It passed! Now I got to get back to the damn DMV for tags..



Running pretty good for the most part, some weird issues with the idle at times, might have something to do with the low temp or? Also noticed some vibration around 60mph, going to double check the driveline, axles and wheels.

Already feels faster than my old KA single cam 240. Lots more to do and I need to sell a bunch of shit and clean my garage..
 

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NIce. Just curious...what do they check for for visual? As for vibrations, Wheels probably need to get rebalanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
They used a mirror to look under the car for a catalytic converter.. that was it.

It does need new tires so that could be it..
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Replaced all the lug nuts, raised up about an inch all the way around and got the fender mounted. Pop ups need some adjusting.



Still rides pretty rough and looks like the bushings might be shot on the bottom rear of the stance shocks. Might raise it another 1/2" and see if I can soften up the damping a little more. I'm not a fan of black rims, so I'll be doing something about that here soon. It idles at 2000rpm when its cold, and it takes forever to warm up. I'm assuming it doesn't have a thermostat and my fans kick on when it's barely warmed up, I have a higher temp thermoswitch to put in.

Sold a few things over the weekend and will be getting a nismotronic and wideband in the next month. Then probably get an LSD because this 1 tire fryer, peg leg shit is no fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
ECU out for Nismotronic install (damn shipping!) and AEM WB getting installed soon. Any concerns running a WB in the stock location? Considering a heat shield/sink?

Going to do some more shock adjustments, add some grounding and a few other cleanup/fixes. My gopro broke, but I'll get some vids up soon..
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Found a few issues yesterday.

The O2 Sensor wire has a wire that broke off. Surprised it passed emissions like that. It's being replaced by the wideband here soon anyhow.



This ground braid from the head to the firewall wasn't hooked up which might explain some the missing and cutting out. I'll probably add a few more grounds for good measure.



Still waiting for the ECU to be shipped back, but I've been reading the users guide in the meantime, lots of cool features and logging capabilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Got the Nismotronic and wow, there's a lot there. Was having troubles with the ECU after installing only to realize I hadn't tightened the ECU harness all the way in. Dumb. Car is running pretty solid now even w/o the stock 02 sensor but I'll be installing the WB this weekend, most likely, and I can use that for closed loop operation. The temp gauge on the cluster seems to read a little low compared to the ECU, might try 1 step higher temp (200-190) for the switch or wire the fan relay into the ECU (not sure how that works but I think it's possible). I need to find me a boost controller to crank it up to around 12psi on the stocker and see what it'll do. Going to rig up a camera mount and then start running some logs along with some video.

I set the rear coil overs up nearly the same but for some reason the drivers side sits about 3/4-1" lower? Suspension looks good, not bent or anything so I'm not sure why. Wish I had some corner scales handy.

Once I'm happy with the tune and everything else, I'll convert it to a MAP based tune and ditch the MAF, and once I'm happy with that, upgrade the turbo, injectors, and fuel pump, then I'll take it to the dyno (probably next year).

Lots to do and clean up still but it's going pretty good and I'm pretty happy with it at the moment. I'll be daily driving it for the summer and might try to get it out to Portland International Raceway(PIR) and do a little drag racing eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Still don't have the damn O2 sensor installed. It's got a skinny O2 sensor and the WB is a fat O2 sensor and I couldn't get the damn adapter out, not enough room to get torque on it. I've started poking into the Nismotronic and setup the launch control which is pretty neat, but with an open diff I can't set it too high anyway. I tried to setup the flat shift but realized I forgot to check a box and shifted around 7k. Didn't break anything. I'm learning though, but don't want to make too many changes w/o knowing all the effects, so I'll proceed cautiously and take it step by step.





 

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Discussion Starter #56
So, I got out the skinny O2 sensor adapter, but it was larger than the WBO2 sensor, so I drilled and tapped the damn thing to fit the WBO2 sensor. I got the cable routed and pulled, but didn't quite finish wiring it up because my kids wanted to play hide and seek. I got a cheap 3d printed center vent gauge holder for $13 bux off ebay, I sanded it down and painted it because it looked like shit.

I did get my door holder thing fixed, it was completely busted. Sometimes, it's the small things..

From Japan to my door for $47.

Busted.


Fixed.


I'll get a few more pictures of the WB install when I finish it up on Sunday. Also trying to figure out how to use the ecu to control the fans, and how to hook up a boost solenoid and use the ecu to control boost. Later this summer I'll get an AIT and MAP sensor installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Figured out how to wire the fans up to the ECU and will be wiring that up in the next few weeks. I also figured out how to view the maps in 3d and did some smoothing and other adjustments.


I came up with an interesting idea. Instead of running an actual map sensor, I can run an AEM boost gauge (-1bar to 2.5bar) that has a 0-5V analog output and use that as the map sensor. And that means I will be able to log and control boost (already got the MAC boost control solenoid) through the ecu. And all I would need is an IAT sensor and I could convert over to a MAP based tune and ditch the MAF. I think it will work...
 

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Discussion Starter #58
My new AEM WBO2 gauge just randomly stopped working. Now it just reads full lean. Tried Free air test, failed twice, then passed, tried moving the ground wire, tried wiring it straight to the battery per the tech guy's recommendation. No luck. Now I've got to send it to AEM. Really pissed me off, but I suppose it'll give me time to fix and wire up a few things/issues.
 

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I've been using an older PLX m400 wideband, hasn't failed me. Wish the display was OLED because it's hard to read in the daylight. Hopefully your gauge is fixed this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I had a PLX on my Rx7 and didn't have a problem with it ever, well 2-3 years or so. In an effort to have this back up asap I decided I'd buy another sensor and, what do you know, it's working again. Maybe it was a bum sensor, maybe it was cause I didn't let it warm up all the way once, maybe it was because it's too close to the turbo.. IDK. This one does seem to be reacting faster?? who knows. I did get it mounted this time and will probably fill up those other gauge holes with some more AEM things and crank up the boost soon.

I did get a new GoPro for Father's Day so I'll be getting some good videos here soon. Not boring shit like this - v - (shot with my cellphone)

 
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