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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
All ready to go just waiting on taillight harnesses and reinstating insurance!!


EDIT: Got the harnesses, no rewiring, no cutting, no splicing, just plug and play.


Will finish breaking in the diff today, drain and refill, and do a little tuning and driving.

I also picked up a vibrant ultra quiet resonator that I plan to have welded up in the next few weeks/months, just to quiet it up a little more.

EDIT2: Finished 'breaking in' the differential, basically went to a parking lot and did figure 8's and circles? and then changed out the stinky ass gear oil.

Daily driving it now and tuning as I go along.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I put the stripe back on one side to see if I liked it. Yea, it's electrical tape. I like it. What do you think?



Next up is brakes and suspension/bushings and fixing little things, but mostly, I just want to drive it.

Aaaannd, Just for Fun Here is my Old RX-7.


And here's the car my SR20 came out of.
 

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240-kid
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2863, Good choice. What size turbine housing?

I like the OEM Black stripe, but I'm a queer for all things OEM lol.

Also if you need help with your calibration send me an email @ [email protected] if not you can hit me up on IG @ ScootTuned or ScootScootScootScoot
 

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Where'd you get your center panel and lower trim from? Did you get them as a set? I only have the taillights.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #85
.63 ar on the exhaust housing. I'm hoping it doesn't choke it out too much up top, but I'm looking for a good usable midrange anyway and so far I'm liking it.

The center panel and lower trim piece was on the shell when I bought it..

This dealership on ebay has 'decent' prices, but shit ain't cheap.
 

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240-kid
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2863 should be good for quick spool but power will probably be falling off by 7ish I would say.

2867/71 are supposed to be well matched as far as Comp/Turbine wheel relation.

If you find the urge for more later try looking into a TR3030R in a .63 T3
Things a responsive monster. B18C's are seeing 20lbs by 3500 with a proper setup (10.0:1 C/R and a Good Sized Turbo Cam) and still holds power just shy of 9K.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I'm totally fine with it falling off at 7k as long as it has good midrange punch. Currently running 14psi for initial tuning and it 'feels' way faster than it did with the stocker at 11 (obviously) and spool seems comparable. I heavily considered a 2867/2871 but I wanted to try the 2863 and considering I'm on a unknown mileage stock SR20 I didn't want to rebuild/upgrade the engine. I think it will suit my needs and once I want a little more I'll throw in some cams and/or crank up the boost and run aux injection, but I just want to drive it and enjoy it and try not to blow it up or crash it. Just want a fun car, not a race car.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
Well, Good and Bad.
The Good. Got some Apexi N1 ExV shocks for $575 NIB.


Got a new shift boot.


The Bad. Apparently, I didn't tighten down the turbo to the manifold enough and after a few heat cycles, it's leaking. I cannot get at the lock tabs to tighten it on the car and I think the turbo needs to come back off. Fuck me. It's literally only 2 loose nuts. I've tried to get at the locking tabs, but just can't get enough leverage to bend them. Lame. Currently, I'm in denial, but will eventually have to accept that it has to be pulled.

4-15-19 Edit: Got the turbo off and tightened up and back on. My 5 y/o daughter even helped me put it back together. Unfortunately, I've realized I may have a small fuel leak at the #4 injector. Lucky it's not hard to get to and I'm glad I caught it. It's not the injector, but where the rail meets the manifold. Driving it today, but will probably park it until I can get that fixed because if fuel pressure isn't 100% there's no reason to try and tune it.

Edit 2: Some weird shit going on. When it's cold it seems to run fine at ~14afr, when warm it runs ~12afr and if I try to lean it out it runs like shit. I have a feeling it could be the 02 sensor going out and giving false readings because it's like 5" from the turbo, which again, not good for tuning. Or it's because the fuel pressure is dropping off from the small leak and getting poor atomizing from the injector. Back in the garage till I can fix the fuel leak. Other wise fun as shit, no problem getting sideways, but I kind of drive like an old man.

Going to fix the injector rail seats and put a heatsink on the 02 sensor and get the shocks on. Considering some Z32 brakes, but need to do some research for 4 lug. Sentra SER disks?

Edit 3: Injector rail seats are good to go. Here's a picture of the one that was leaking.
 

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I use Nordlock washers on my turbo. I didn't even bother using the locking tabs. Hard to break off the Nordlock washers once they've been tightened.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
There's 0 correction at any ECT above 160. Could have something to do with my idle timing.



Edit: Timing at Idle was a little retarded in that image, but it was fine later when I got home at 15deg but still 12afr. It idles good though but need to look into it a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Just an updated picture. Running pretty good at 16psi. Freaking window regulator broke on my way to work. The cable snapped. I threw it in the trash and ordered another new one. Freaking $222 though..



Edit: Brand New Window Regulator.
 

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240-kid
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Ouch.
Yeah buying parts for a an almost 30yo car gets expensive at times lol.

You ever figure out your rich idle issue?
Just did a friend's SD Conversion on his SR with Nismotronic.
Tune went real quick and runs like butter.
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
Not really. The gauge reads like high 11 to 12 at idle after its all warmed up. However, it idles perfectly and if I try to lean up to 13.5 it starts missing and shit. I should probably check compression and maybe try a new sensor.

I've been dicking around with the lean issue at light throttle as well, messing with the dmapAccel settings. Seems like it gets better, then I make a few changes and it's worse. I did start a nismotronic thread over on zilvia, but haven't had much time to update it recently. If I had access to a dyno I could probably make a lot more progress than logging my commute each day, then reviewing and making changes, then logging, reviewing..

Edit: I'm going to replace the 02 sensor soon, and probably get a bung welded in a little farther away from the turbo on the DP. I think it's getting cooked in the stock location. Today w/o any changes it was idling at about 11afr, well, that's what the gauge said..
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Scoot, Hey so I got this Nismotronic thread going over on Zilvia.

I've uploaded a map and log here.

It'd be great to get any input on my map/tune. It does rip pretty good so I'm fairly happy with it right now, but I know there are improvements that can be made.

AFRs under boost are at ~11 or a little less. I've reviewed a few dyno logs and it looks like most are running around ~12?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Tuning is coming along, still have 12.5AFR idling after it's all warmed up. I just realized I never adjusted my FPR after putting in the 740cc injectors? I'm going to check that.. BKR7EIX iridiums are in now, I thought it might help with the rich idle, but no luck. Old plugs looked perfect when I pulled them out. Running about 18psi in the cool mornings and 16.5-17psi in the afternoon. Working on adjusting the IAT duty cycle trim to keep boost about the same at different air temps. Hoping to get it to 20psi (about 30lbs/min, similar to a gt2871r at 17psi) by the end of the summer, but I'm taking it slow and hoping I don't get any bad detonation and blow it up. So far I've put more than 2500 miles on it since I got it registered.

Recently decided to get some Z32 brakes since the stock ones suck ass. Acquiring all the necessary bits to do the fronts and might end up doing to rears later.

Could really use some better seats, but that's well over $1k for a set of 2 with all the brackets and sliders. Maybe a Christmas Present..

I also got a shitty little stereo I'm going to throw in along with an amp and 12" sub that I have sitting around. I'll make it easy to remove for racing or whatever but a good sounding radio would be nice. I'm going to smash the shit out of the one that's in it now because it beeps like 4 times every time I turn off the car.

I ordered a stock cat because the one I 'welded' up I don't think has the right angle on it and causes the exhaust to hang really low and it always scrapes on shit. I've also got another silencer to have welded in and I'll have a O2 sensor bung welded in a little bit farther from the turbo.

Tried to do a second gear burn out at about 25mph and fried the shit out of my clutch, stupid, so that'll probably be something else to upgrade this winter.

It's been a fun car and I've been driving the shit out of it with out any real issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Well, summer's about over but I was able to put almost 3k miles on the shitbox this year without any major problems. The tune has gotten a lot better, I made some changes to the column values for more 'resolution' on the vacuum part of the map, still won't idle at anything more than 12.5AFR once it's warmed up, but it runs great in boost and cruising. Recently it started overheating and I wasn't getting any interior heat, I assume a stuck thermostat, so I decided I'm going to put it in the garage and address a bunch of things this fall/winter.
New stereo and subwoofer (it's still the 90's), 300zx front brakes and master cylinder, new steering wheel and hub adapter, fix horn, fix headlights that turn off randomly and the highbeams that don't work, rocker arm stoppers, water pump and thermostat (for the overheating), verify fuel pressure maybe new filter/pump, replace shocks, general cleaning and degreasing, replace cat and get resonator welded in, compression check, hopefully find a nice set of bucket seats and brackets, rewire the battery kill switch so it actually works, and once that's all done, I'll just start driving it again, rain or shine, except snow, not in the snow.

300zx TT Aluminum calipers (still need to be cleaned up, maybe rebuilt)


I unfortunately bought this knockoff OMP steering wheel from turner motorsports and immediately asked for a refund when I noticed the quality. I waited over a month for this thing. The stitching and seams are horrible.





Need to finish up my gokart and get it out of way to fit the car in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Turns out OMP does sell that shitty chinese made wheel. I ended up getting a nice Italian made Luisi.

I think my rich Idle problem might be related to venting the PCV and not having it routed back to the intake. Hoping to get my car into the garage this weekend.

I've been rebuilding my dirtbike engine that melted the piston and blew up at the coast.


Edit: Got it in the Garage. Removed the steering wheel. My dash lights decided to go out so I put in some LEDs and polished the plastic and replaced the Headlight/Turn signal stalk. Replacing the stereo and installing a sub and amp, replacing the climate control, installing new coil overs and Z32 front calipers and new pads/rotors all around, rocker arm stoppers, adding a vacuum source to the catch can for the PCV, wheel spacers and fixing the battery kill switch and fuel pump relay. Lot's to do and I should be back on the road by March and fucking DEQ again in April.



Steering wheel, stereo, RCA for amp, are in, waiting on climate control.



1/20/20 Edit:
Rebuilt the 300zx front brakes and replaced the climate control with one that all works!


1/21/20 Edit:
Cleaned up some rust and repainted. Not the best job, but it'll do for now.
 
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