99% of the front-mount kits out there mount in front of the radiator. Requires battery moving as well as drilling and cutting.

 

ya I kinda worded that wrong I was saying in front of the radiator as if u was sitting in t he car so I guess It would b behind the radiator if u was facing the bumper I have seen it done but I think theyhad to cut the intercooler piping but it helps u hit full boost faster because of less piping and I was just wondering if anyone ha done it so I could get some tips on how they did theres

 

I've never seen one. It would restrict the air a ridiculous amount, not to mention you'd have to fit it between the electric fans and the motor (since a clutch fan wouldn't fit). The motor would give off tons of heat, making it worthless.

A v-mount setup would be the closest thing to what you're thinking of. Otherwise, no. Don't do it.

 

There is the PBM kit, but it still mounts in front of the rad, right where the AC condenser would sit. I have seen a custom set up here, kind of similar to v-mount. The intercooler sat parallel to the ground, between the front of the motor and the radiator. It utilized a vented hood that sealed against the intercooler, to create a low pressure zone to get air through the intercooler. It was on a Nissan, but for the life of me, I can't remember the maker.

It was similar to this. This is a RX-7 with V-mount setup.

 

Chase Bays is working on a V-Mount, if that's the route you want to go.

On another note, why?

 

u seen it done because thats how nearly everyone does an fmic and doesn't want to be creative about it.

i've seen them installed by everything from zipties and a couple fab-tabs on the rad support to completely clean smack in the middle of a shaved bumper support (on s13s). most people just tab it onto the outside and remove the bumper support all together.

I get what boostin says about heat, but isn't the intercooler "transparent" to an extent? meaning air will always pass through it if your going at a meaningful speed and forward so the engine heat wouldn't really get to it since its still infront? also the heat under the hood of a car oscillates violently under speed (without under-cover). elevating the hood would alleviate a ton of heat away from the fmic too.

 

I think you need to re-read the thread. He says he's seen it, you talk about how everyone does them that way and give examples, but you're thinking of the standard IC-Rad-Engine format, not what he's talking about, Rad-IC-Engine.

I'd like to see where you've seen it mounted between the engine and radiator in a standard format.

The engine gives off raw heat going a whole 3 inches to your metal intercooler. You're getting minimal airflow after the radiator. Just having air moving around doesn't mean you're getting proper flow or that it's effective. Take the EJ-style TMIC. It gets hot as hell from the engine, but it's designed so that the air is FORCED through it by sealing to the hood scoop. Direct air.

It's the same as if you leave a short ram in the engine bay. It's going to get heat soaked.

OP- If you want the shortest piping, lose the AC in favor of the PBM High-mount kit. The benefits from the extra few inches of shorter piping compared to the PBM (Yes, only a few inches) is nowhere near the consequences of running it inside the engine bay.

PBM High-Mount:
POWERED BY MAX: ????? Cooling

 

This reminds me of a great line in Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost - "Always beware of the villain called the 'interheater.'"

 

^Haaaaaaaaaaaah

 

lol best post by a sponsor evaaar

 

I agree made me :lol:

 

well if i had to do it that way i'd just repeat the same solution for the radiator and throw fans on it. intakes don't have their own little fans to negate hot air like the rad does which is the reason why they're positioned far away and fans allow the rad to be placed as close as they are right?

short rams usually get boxed-in so they shouldn't heat soak. idk?

that kit in the URL is kinda what i was remembering.

 

I know you're trying to be helpful, but you're pulling advice out of your ass when staring at cold hard facts. It's a horrible position for it, nobody puts them there or sells kits for it. End of story.

 

i'm just catering to his scenario. if he really wanted to do it like that, thats how i'd do it and hope it works. alot of car companies poorly place things in odd spots but they usually compensate in a similar fashion, their not always rocket scientists in designing you know?

at least what i mean is, that would give it the best chance to work. i'd LOVE a sleeper that can actually have a full-sized cooler on it and still be perfectly discrete.

 

if you want a sleeper there are way better ways of doing it then the way you said, you can either do a high mount set up, or a v mount as already mentioned.

 

What good is a sleeper when he can't beat a civic with his heat soak.

Again, don't pull.

 

Side mount anyone?

 

I enjoy my top mount

 

Top mounts are fun

 

neither of those are in a 240 though.. i have never seen a tmic 240. and V mounts are very expensive unless your skilled and privileged.

 

so... high mount?

 

Ah, Box your top mount is so cute.

 

His plastic manifold is cuter

 

plastic = less heat soak, easier to make, less top-weight, no need for welding and the shape is more flexible to manage vs. metal.

nothing wrong with a plastic intake manifold (up to a certain amount of power). It has less heat soak then a metal one, less weight=less top heavy, plus I read that GM uses plastic intake manifolds on some of there lsx engines

 

Ha! I just enjoy 6 of those cylindrical thingies.

 

 

It's ok box. We know you're jealous of teh red. Whatever helps you sleep at night

 

ls2's for sure, not sure about 1's, 3's or 6's. 3's and 6's probably do. A variant of the engine in the Neons did too. I'm sure there's a ton more.

I tend to think a plastic manifold is generally > than a metal one for heat issues anyway. I might think they could handle the psi too.