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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm like >< <-that damn close to dropping in my motor. I'm trying to figure out what rad would be best to keep this thing cool enough. I don't want to vent the hood. I like to get my ducks in a row before putting things together so this is why I'm asking ahead of time.

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pallnet
 

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what motor? i've got the rb25 with a stock s13 radiator and so far its been fine for daily driving, no temp issues here...but ill probably in the spring time get a koyo
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
HAHAHAHA
I always get the silent treatment when I say that I'm putting an L28ET into an S13.
RB20 is not worth it when you can get the same HP from the L motor and the L motor parts can be had localy for less $, now the RB25 is a different story but I don't have the $ for that right now. Putting an older motor in a newer car is not legal in some states (Not my state) but from what I understand the RB is not legal in most states either.

Well the L motor produces a good amount of heat just like the RB so that's why I asked in this section.

Thanks
pallnet
 

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I wish I had a thicker radiator. My fmic is blocking the hell out of my radiator maybe the ebay top air duct might help... I also replaced my water pump and thermostat. I'm ruling it all out.
 

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fluidyne, koyo, etc. pick one and go for it or go to the junk yard and buy a s13 rad.
 

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Yeah I have one for the upper. I need to fab up one for the lower part of the radiator. Good thing my friend's dad owns a sign shop so I can get and fab up all the aluminum that I want. I am going to try the upper one first and go from there.
~ANDREW~
 

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andrewmp6 said:
should work boxing it in only leaves the air one way to go
Yha what he said. N1 watter pump will be just as good as stock unless you plan to keep it up in the R's for long periods of time. It dosn't hurt to take the old water pump off and clean inside and look for heavy scales or rust built up in the cooling system. They will cause your car to overheat in the long run. Ducting your radiator helps when the air flows up under your bumper it swirles up. If you put a plate across the top air is forced to in the radiator or to go to the left and right of the radiator. If thats not enouf you can always put plates on each side so air can't flow to the sides. If you have a stock radiator with the plastic tanks junk that fast i have seen them split too many times.
Atleast get a new oem one with a metal tank and twin flexlite fans. Koyo radiators are a nice upgrade to stock if you plan on laying down some serious hp later in life. If your rolling in the $$$ griffin makes some bomb radiators for 240's.
 

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I am running a 14" permacool fan and a 12" no name fan, a skyline radiator, and I just replaced the thermostat and water pump...both oem 300z tt for the thermostat. I am going to try ducting the air first and go from there. I may need to reroute my piping so the hot pipe doesnt have to go across the radiator and pick up that heat.
~ANDREW~
 
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