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How to Fiberglass Dash: walkthrough

61K views 72 replies 46 participants last post by  supersayianjim2  
#1 ·
I'm not completely done, Ill post pics as I go along with it, but I have had some people request I put the write up here. So here goes.

Note: This is the way I am doing it, if you have any negative comments keep them to yourself. I have reasoning behind doing it this way.
I am not responsible for you screwing up your own dash because you don't know what your doing. I will be more the happy to help you out the best I can though.

The story: I bought a cage in a shell, the dash was cut out for the cage and it also had a nice crack in it. Well I have a perfect dash sitting in my shop, but why hack that one up? I decided to glass this one over and mount some gauge pods in it. So ifyou have a cracked/cracking dash, I don't see how it could look worse if you at least try this. Expect a lot of filler dust out of this project. Also have prepared a lot of latex gloves.

Tools needed:
-Box of Latex gloves
-Dash(preferably cracked:))
-Sharp razor
-Couple liter cans of Fiberglass resin
-extra tubes of hardener
-Fiberglass matting(I prefer the straight mat, not the kind that is all mesh like)
-Paint roller/rollers(I used 2" ones, bought about 10 of them, used about 5 or 6)
-Sandpaper (80, 600grit, also 180grit if you are not going to use an angle grinder)(note: this is how I'm doing it, you'll see why I only am using two kinds)
-a few buckets to pour the resin into.
-Body Filler
-Spreading things (something to spread the filler out on the dash with)
-Acetone
-rags(clean!)
-A block of some sort for sanding, preferably one long, one short..
-Chisel(optional)
-Gauge pods(optional)
-Angle Grinder with sanding wheel(optional, highly recommended though)
-That's all I can think of off the top of my head that I used, if I remember something else Ill edit this.

First step: -Remove dash(easy enough, just take it out)and remove all a/c vents and such.

Second step: (Tools needed: chisel, not nessecary, but it helps your nails from hurting haha)
-Observe and start taking vinyl skin off!! Try to peel it away first. You will more than likely end up doing it like me and chipping away at it with a chisel or something to lift it up since it is so dry.

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You should get something like this in the end. Notice how the heat got to it.
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Step Three: (Tools needed: -Bucket, -Paint Roller with brush thing, -Matting -Resin, -Hardener, -gloves, -A mat to drip the resin on, not required)

Now that you have got all of it stripped down, its time to start glassing. This is where it gets messy. Get some gloves on, you'll be needing them. Pour some resin in a bucket(I just used cool whip containers, filling them about 1/8-1/4 full) Add hardener, I cannot stress enough, it will dry, drying too slow is better than too fast. Get your roller and roll on some resin to a section, dont try to be a badass and do the entire thing in one trip. Now put your mat down, press down on it so it sticks for a couple seconds. Now go back over it with some more resin, making sure it all gets covered. Try to get it contoured to all the curves and such, its kind of hard, but if you can't do it, no big deal. Let dry. Should end up with this:
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Notice how there are pieces missing, those are the spots where I said to try to get it fitted, but I was unable to, no big deal. Just get a sharp blade and cut out the spots.
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Be a little sloppy, you can reuse a lot of that mat!!!
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Step Four: (Tools needed: same as above)
Now all the parts that you cut out just go over again with more matting the same way you did in step three. This time though, use smaller pieces.
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Go over the cutting process again and repeat until everything has some mat on it. After this, I went over the entire thing with just a thick layer or resin.

Step Five: (Gauges Pods, if installing)
I wanted to mount my gauges into the dash, so if you want to do the same, here ya go:
Figure out where you want them to do, mark them and make sure they are angled right where you want them:
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Get even with the dash to figure out if they are going to be right. I dont know if you can actually measure anything, I just eyeballed it.
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Now you got to put some glass over those gauge pods so they stay in place!
I got the strip of mat, its like 2 inches wide, about 4 feet long. Be sure to push it down into the crevices between the gauge pods!!
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Now, once again, start hacking away at those extra little pieces of the mat that are not attached to anything.
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Now since you only used a strip of the mat to go over the gauge pods, you want to give the back some extra strength. Get some leftover matting somewhere and put it on the back of the pods.
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So now that you hacked away at any unneeded matting and stuff, start putting some more resin on there. I put only two THICK layers. It should be relatively shiny when your done:
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Let it all dry and cure for at least a night.

Step Six: (Tools needed: 180 grit sandpaper with a sanding block OR an Angle Grinder with Sanding attachment)This is when it starts getting dusty.

LIGHTLY sand down all the surface of the resin. You are trying to give the body filler something to bond to.
I used an angle grinder and lightly went over the entire thing:
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Step Seven: (Tools needed: Acetone; Rags, Body Filler, preferably a long sanding block with 80 grit paper, short block and paper will work though too)

Wipe down the entire dash with acetone. Prepare the body filler, remember too little hardener is A LOT better than too much. Work in sections, it will go over a lot better.
Do not use this filler. I accidentally bought the wrong one, it just isn't any good(at least to me.) I used the Bondo Filler: Its black with a black Mustang on the front, blue hardener.
Get the point?
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Ok, spread the GOOD filler all over, you will end up with a lot of waves and stuff, this is why you use a block to sand it all out. I have a long block, there like 20 bucks on the net. Good pick up for this project.
This is ALMOST all sanded down. Be prepared for some dust haha
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The gauges are tough to get to in between, but with some 80 grit paper, just fold it in half and go to town. Sure it takes time, but you want it to look good right?
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Notice the marks still in the back of the guages from the filler? We'll take care of that with sanding and more filler.

That's all I have completed so far. I will update when I progress. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 
#5 ·
Cool, just wanted to add this for the guys in colder climates. Resin cures differently at different temperatures, and adding too much hardner is not a good way to go, it makes things brittle. Don't want to add too much hardner to the filler either.

Looking good though! Thats dirty work!!
 
#6 ·
GUY-RB25DET said:
NOICE. ME LIKEY. AFTER RB INSTALL I'M DOING THIS. IT'S PERRRRRTY.. tHAN BACK TO HANDLING AND PERFORMANCE
Thanks! This is certainly something you'd want to do in an off week or time where you don't care about driving around with no dash in your car. And its really relatively cheap and it will come out looking great!

taco_401 said:
its good to see some one doing a nice little project for us
I try. I try haha. I would really like to change my User Name though. I'm not used to it being this. But glad to know you like it

89DC240 said:
Damn thats cool. So doin that
Be prepared for some messy situations and a sore arm from sanding haha. Good luck, let me know if you need any help along the way!


Awesome! Good looking out. I have lived in Florida my whole life, so I'm not really sure about that, but good information to know. I tried to stress that point about putting to little hardener is a 20398403x better than putting too much. Good info!
 
#8 ·
Ill be spraying it black, no clear coat though(don't want the shine to ruin my vision) so it will be flat black. Not rattle canning it though ;) . I am trying to show the cheapest way possible so everyone can afford it. But the last step I am going to spray it with my paint gun. Updating now.
 
#9 ·
Alright, I decided since I'm doing this writeup and it seems quite a few people are interested, that I will try to get it done asap.

Step Eight?: (Tools: Sanding block/80, wetsand 600grit, acetone, 3-4cans Sandable primer, clean rags)

what do ya know...More sanding hooray!!!

Try to sand down as much as you can with the 80 grit. There are some spots around the gauges I just said screw it on, but I'll show you how to fix it so you'll never know ;). I went over the entire thing with wetsanding 600grit paper to get it ready for primer. I wiped it all down with acetone:
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Notice I got the cheap primer, I don't plan on using my spray gun for this primer stage because I want everyone to be able to do/afford it. This primer works well for what we are doing.
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Notice how you can hardly tell anything is wrong in this next picture, wait till its primed:
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Time to prime. Ok, just a heads up...remove all vehicles from the scene for god's sake...as well as any other type of things you do not want to get screwed up. DON'T go easy with the primer. Build it up REALLY thick to cover up all the scratches and stuff you didn't sand out. :) I only had two cans on hand so I'll be picking up a couple more when I go out tonight. It's cheap stuff, go ahead have some fun with it. Runs? who cares?! It's sandable, we'll work on that later.
Here is what I got done with two cans, like I said, I WANT to go over it with at least another entire can:
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This is where I started to go over it real heavy, ran out of paint eventually though:
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Now here is all the little things we'll be fixing since we didn't take the time to do it right the first time haha. I did this on purpose to show you guys even though you went this far and screwed up, there is something to help ya out.
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Remember what I said about how bad it would look? ;)
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Well that's all I have for today. Thanks!
 
#16 ·
awesome work! reminds me of the dash I started almost two years ago. maybe this will motivate me to finish mine.

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although I went with a more stock look. definitely want to see what paint you use, I've been undecided this whole time, alittle more sanding and it'll be ready for paint. It's been sitting collecting dust for all that time. can't wait:thumbsup
 
#22 ·
I actually looked at that other dash and didnt like the style of it. I want to clearly be able to see my gauges, not have them hiding or anything and thats what that picture conveys to me, I could be wrong though. I did a little bit more, I'll take a couple pics hopefully tomorrow, I've been busy lately with getting all my wiring done in the car and such. The wiring and dash are kind of going hand and hand, so when the wiring is done, the dash is soon to follow. Will update asap.
 
#28 ·
Ok, next step, whatever it is haha.

Tools needed: Sander(not needed, but will help A LOT), 320grit paper, 600 grit paper(wet sand), Putty(will post a picture of what I'm talking about when I get it)

Ok, after you have primed all of it heavily, sand it down with 320 or so, wipe it down again with mineral spirits or acetone. Get the glazing putty(acts somewhat like a bondo, but just there to fill in scratches and such) I put too much on because I was being dumb and decided it would be better than not putting enough and putting too little, but I ran out. So I have to go buy another tube of it.
But I put it all over the dash, until I ran out. On the left side you'll see where I already wet sanded with 600 grit paper. On the right side I haven't sanded yet because I got tired and decided to use a Dual Action sander with 320 grit to get it down a little quicker. Then after getting it down to a nice level with the 320, go to wet sand with 600.
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Macro shots of how the putty fills in the scratches/holes and such.
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After sanding with wet sand paper, you SHOULD be fine, even though some minor holes and scratches may still be showing, you still will go over it again with more primer, so that should fill them up.

I ran into some other problems iwth my car recently so I kind of put this on the back burner but for the sake of this write up I'm trying to do a little every now and then to keep it fresh.
 
#31 ·
project is very cool. I am not very familiar with glass, carbon fiber, etc., but couldn't you use the fiberglassed dash as a mold for say carbon fiber....? Just another idea.

Keep it up,
Jarad

Carbon-fiber done properly requires a mold and vacuum bagging. laying fiberglass like me and the thread starter did is the weakest way to glass, carbonfibers "look" and strength would get ruined if you did it this way. Plus carbonfiber is overrated, IMO it doesnt look good, and you can get kevlar for soooo much cheaper and its still super strong and light like carbon fiber.

I'll be getting into kevlar fabrication after rollcages, I cant wait.