Ok well first off let me start saying I got the kaaz 2 way from spl parts ask to speak to allen that guy rocks! Here is the website link to them to buy it http://www.splparts.com/ I paid $870.00 for it and they gave me 2 cans of fluid. It was only supposed to come with one can of fluid but they hooked me up with a free can ($40.00 dollar value) out of the blue. The diff uses one can but after you do the break in you have to change the fluid because the clutch packs are wearing and will get metal in your diff. It arrived on my doorstep in 2 seperate boxes. It's a good thing it was packaged really well because those cans of fluid would be easy to break.
To start Jack the car up and put it on jack stands and make sure it's secure. drain the fluid to take some weight out of the diff. After that remove the catback so it's not in the way. Remove the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft to the back of the diff. After that remove the bolts on the output shafts there are 6 of them on each side. Remove the 2 bolts holding the diff in back by the driveshaft they are on the bottom of the diff. cover. After that remove the big bolts on the subframe there is a ground wire going in to one of them they are on the front cover. After you remove the 2 there are 2 more down inside there you can't use a ratchet to get to them because the back of the trunk is in the way you have to use a swivel type wrench that the sockets go in to and it has to be a deepwall I believe a 19mm. After that I believe it's ready to come down it's not to hard it's just the bolts on the front of the cover get hung up but with some patience it will come.
After it's out take the bolts out holding the diff. cover on. Remove the output shafts using a big screwdriver or somthing. I used a big railroad nail and it popped out with ease you have to beat the end of the hammer or somthing because it does take a little effort. After that you should be ready to take the stock open diff. out.
Ok here is where you have to pay attention to detail take the huge c-bolts off holding the diff in make sure not to mix them up they have to go on the exact way they came out. Next you have to pull the stock diff out this is a pain take all you anger and frustration out on it pry it out, beat it out it dosn't matter. Don't worry about the bearings The kaaz unit comes with those and new bearing retainers. When taking that out don't mix the shims up either they have to go in exactly as they came out and I do mean exactly (very critical you can screw up how your ring gear is meshing) I believe there is one big shim on the left side and one big one and a small one on the right side. Just remember exactly how they came out write it on paper, mark them with fingernail polish do what you have to do to remember. Remove the ring gear off the stock open diff those bolts are stuck so you might have to use a air wrench or a vise to hold the diff, you may even have to take it somewhere.
Installing the kaaz into the carrier this takes a little patience but isn't to bad. Install the ring gear on the kaaz unit using a loctite and torquing them to around 110ft/lb of torque in a criss cross pattern. You may need to use a vice to put the kaaz unit in so you get that much torque on them. Ok here is how I did I'm sure there are a few different ways. Put the retainers on the side of the carrier and they will stay in place next hold all the shims and bearings in place on the side of the kaaz unit and put it in the carrier. Leave the skinniest shim out when doing this it was the far outside one on the right side closest to the bearing I believe. Then when you have all that in there slide the skinnest shim in as far as you can with you hands then lightly tap it in with a mallet be careful not to bend it. Watch it where the ouput shafts where so you can see where it's going on the other side you may have to position it with a flathead screwdriver from time to time so it dosn't fall down or go up. After that is in put the c-bolts back in just as they were before and torque them to around 110ft/lb of torque with loctite also. Put one of the output shafts in so you can turn it to see make sure it's ok. You can use a dial indactor to check to see if the backlash is ok if you want. Put some high temp rtv sealer on the case after you cleaned it up good with brakekleen and do the same on the diff cover. Put the gasket on the case and it will stick in place since the rtv is on there then install your diff cover. After that replace teh oil seals where the output shafts were tap them out with a flat head screwdriver. Put a little oil around the outer edge of the new seals so they slide in easier and tap them with a mallet and make sure they are even. After that you are about done just put the output shafts back in and reinstall everything.
When I first intalled it and moved the car I thought I screwed somthing up because it shook kind of hard and made all kinds of funny noises but after I was done breaking it in the noises were virtually gone it only does it now when I first start it up and going really slow or in reverse. Remember to do your break in just like in says in the book that came with the lsd this is very critical on the life of your kaaz unit. Don't be a cheap ass and only use the first can of fluid because it's $40.00 dollars a pop you just paid around $900.00 for the unit take care of it don't take any shortcuts.
What I think of this unit I like it the tires squeel when making left hand corners even if you arn't trying to. Oversteer is so damn easy to control when drifting, it's not even funny how easy it is to control the car now. It's not to noisy like everyone says I don't think it's bad at all after it heats up. It dosn't make much difference in daily driving the car isn't any harder to drive just watch making the left hand turns by cops because it's hard trying to keep the tires from squeeling. You can feel the car just push out of the corners now go into them with more speed and come out alot faster it would be great for auto-x also and road racing.
To start Jack the car up and put it on jack stands and make sure it's secure. drain the fluid to take some weight out of the diff. After that remove the catback so it's not in the way. Remove the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft to the back of the diff. After that remove the bolts on the output shafts there are 6 of them on each side. Remove the 2 bolts holding the diff in back by the driveshaft they are on the bottom of the diff. cover. After that remove the big bolts on the subframe there is a ground wire going in to one of them they are on the front cover. After you remove the 2 there are 2 more down inside there you can't use a ratchet to get to them because the back of the trunk is in the way you have to use a swivel type wrench that the sockets go in to and it has to be a deepwall I believe a 19mm. After that I believe it's ready to come down it's not to hard it's just the bolts on the front of the cover get hung up but with some patience it will come.
After it's out take the bolts out holding the diff. cover on. Remove the output shafts using a big screwdriver or somthing. I used a big railroad nail and it popped out with ease you have to beat the end of the hammer or somthing because it does take a little effort. After that you should be ready to take the stock open diff. out.
Ok here is where you have to pay attention to detail take the huge c-bolts off holding the diff in make sure not to mix them up they have to go on the exact way they came out. Next you have to pull the stock diff out this is a pain take all you anger and frustration out on it pry it out, beat it out it dosn't matter. Don't worry about the bearings The kaaz unit comes with those and new bearing retainers. When taking that out don't mix the shims up either they have to go in exactly as they came out and I do mean exactly (very critical you can screw up how your ring gear is meshing) I believe there is one big shim on the left side and one big one and a small one on the right side. Just remember exactly how they came out write it on paper, mark them with fingernail polish do what you have to do to remember. Remove the ring gear off the stock open diff those bolts are stuck so you might have to use a air wrench or a vise to hold the diff, you may even have to take it somewhere.
Installing the kaaz into the carrier this takes a little patience but isn't to bad. Install the ring gear on the kaaz unit using a loctite and torquing them to around 110ft/lb of torque in a criss cross pattern. You may need to use a vice to put the kaaz unit in so you get that much torque on them. Ok here is how I did I'm sure there are a few different ways. Put the retainers on the side of the carrier and they will stay in place next hold all the shims and bearings in place on the side of the kaaz unit and put it in the carrier. Leave the skinniest shim out when doing this it was the far outside one on the right side closest to the bearing I believe. Then when you have all that in there slide the skinnest shim in as far as you can with you hands then lightly tap it in with a mallet be careful not to bend it. Watch it where the ouput shafts where so you can see where it's going on the other side you may have to position it with a flathead screwdriver from time to time so it dosn't fall down or go up. After that is in put the c-bolts back in just as they were before and torque them to around 110ft/lb of torque with loctite also. Put one of the output shafts in so you can turn it to see make sure it's ok. You can use a dial indactor to check to see if the backlash is ok if you want. Put some high temp rtv sealer on the case after you cleaned it up good with brakekleen and do the same on the diff cover. Put the gasket on the case and it will stick in place since the rtv is on there then install your diff cover. After that replace teh oil seals where the output shafts were tap them out with a flat head screwdriver. Put a little oil around the outer edge of the new seals so they slide in easier and tap them with a mallet and make sure they are even. After that you are about done just put the output shafts back in and reinstall everything.
When I first intalled it and moved the car I thought I screwed somthing up because it shook kind of hard and made all kinds of funny noises but after I was done breaking it in the noises were virtually gone it only does it now when I first start it up and going really slow or in reverse. Remember to do your break in just like in says in the book that came with the lsd this is very critical on the life of your kaaz unit. Don't be a cheap ass and only use the first can of fluid because it's $40.00 dollars a pop you just paid around $900.00 for the unit take care of it don't take any shortcuts.
What I think of this unit I like it the tires squeel when making left hand corners even if you arn't trying to. Oversteer is so damn easy to control when drifting, it's not even funny how easy it is to control the car now. It's not to noisy like everyone says I don't think it's bad at all after it heats up. It dosn't make much difference in daily driving the car isn't any harder to drive just watch making the left hand turns by cops because it's hard trying to keep the tires from squeeling. You can feel the car just push out of the corners now go into them with more speed and come out alot faster it would be great for auto-x also and road racing.
