[DriftX]

AHH, I have resoldered the same connection for my ignition wire 4 times and I can NOT get it to work right.

My car pops under heavy load/boost, so i have a weak ignition connection as confirmed by hotwiring it to the battery (ran fine like that).

I have my purple/white wire tagged into my thick white wire off my fuseblock like it should be.. it's soldered and everything. The car starts up wonderful, cuts off quick with the key, idles smooth and all, but will still hiccup under boost.

So I am asking, is there another spot i can try to re-do this wire, or do i have to run it to that white wire? I'm not sure if that wire is pulling enough current how i have it connected. Any input or ideas would be appreciated!

 

[mello88]

If it's soldered well then thats as good as you're going to get, esp if you've re-soldered it before. You could re-run the wire and up the size to pull more current if you think that's a problem

If it's only under load/boost, you should check out your coil packs and/or your spark plugs & gaps. What plugs are you running? Gap?

 

[DriftX]

well i know it's the connection, it runs fine when straight off the battery, coils packs are fine, ngk's gapped to .8mm, all my connections otherwise are fine.

 

[mikethebiker]

theres a possibility that when you hot-wired your ignition to the battery your giving it a higher current so it runs fine, but when you run your soldered the connection the load isn't as high as being wired stright to the battery. id say either make your guage higher... or just run it hotwired add a switch.

 

[DriftX]

well im a big fan of clean wiring and oem setup, i.e. i already had a switch in there, but I like to hop in and turn the key like factory.

But I though of this idea. I could run it to the hot for the old A/c compressor. that would give it a "kill switch" and provide more current to due the wire is thick like 12 guage or so. So that way it will start like oem as long as the a/c switch is on, and if i want to park it and not have people mess with it, just turn the a/c switch off.

 

[DriftX]

well i tried wiring it up to the a/c power, and it cleared up the bucking issue alot, but it still burps a few times on the wot run. The guage of the a/c power wire is like an 18 and the ignition wire is a 12-14, so I don't think it can provide enough current. I'm still just unsure where else I could try wiring it up to. Is there another wire off my fuse box besides that thick white wire that would allow me to run it safely? I really don't want to put a switch back in it.

 

[ANV1L]

maybe u should check the whole wire instead of cutting it and routing it some where else. then check the wire for the power and go through the harness and check it.

 

[DriftX]

what do you mean by cheak it? At my connections I am getting 12v like i should.

 

[ANV1L]

by checking it i meant make sure its not damaged... and not pinched or something.

 

[nissanfreak8]

by checking it i meant make sure its not damaged... and not pinched or something.

He is saying that because you may be getting 12 volts but that wire may not be able to carry the amperage, hell you could get 12 volts through one strand of copper, its just that you wouldn't get any amperage.

 

[ChuKi RB]

I hate wiring. Thats as much as I'll contribute my attention to this thread :rotflmao

 

[DriftX]

I have checked the wire all the way back and it's not crimped or pinched anywhere, no obvious signs of wear.

 

[ChuKi RB]

You sure its even wiring issues? If all your readings are fine I don't understand the problem. How is everything else besides the wiring? Double check everything and see whats happening.

Perhaps a tune might solve the problem? :heyhey

 

[XIONM7716]

you might have bad coils or ignighter. I say that cause when you hotwire it you get more power flowing through you get about 14volts and that can force worn out things to seem like they work good by providing extra power to jump the gaps. also check your grounds

 

[DriftX]

Well i still don't understand why it ran so well before. I have cleaned and added extra grounds to my ignitor ground to intake manifold, I have checked all my connections and this is my 2nd set of coilpacks.

 

[XIONM7716]

Boost or vacume leak? lunning to rich or lean? Ignition timming?

 

[ChuKi RB]

If it ran fine before then I doubt its the wiring. Check your sensors and such.

 

[DriftX]

well the ignition is now wired to the battery. Timing is set to 20deg base (auto ecu), all my grounds and connections are tight. It's prob a vac/boost leak that isn't very obvious. Hopefully it's not a clapped out ignitor