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I was asked to do a rite up on how to do the self diagnosis on the ecu this is how to do it on the ka24e idk if its the same for the de. First thing you have to do is remove the passenger side kick panel. After you do that you need to unbolt the 2 10mm bolts that hold the ecu in place. Then flip the ecu around with out unplugging it.


Grab a peace of paper and pen you will need to rite down what codes pop up. Mark where the screw is with a grease pen or finger nail polish So it can be set back in the rite spot.

Put the key in and turn it but do not start the car. Now turn the adjustment screw on the ecu all the way clock wise the light will blink one time then 2 times then 3 times after 3 turn it back it is now in self diagnosis mode. The lights will start flashing the code. Red is for the first number green for the 2nd. If you have one code it will keep flashing the same one over and over if you have more than one it will keep going throw them one after the other.

so if its :red red red red---- green green green it is 43

The codes are:
11 Crank angle sensor circuit
12 Air flow meter circuit
13 Engine temperature sensor circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition signal missing in primary coil
31 E.C.U. (E.C.C.S. control unit)
32* EGR function
33 Exhaust gas O2 sensor circuit
35* Exhaust gas temperature circuit
43 Throttle position sensor circuit
45* Injector leak
55 No malfunction

*California models only.


After you have written down the codes turn the car off turn the key back on this time let the light flash 4 times this will clear the codes. after that fix what needs to be fixed and re clear the codes.

Your done bolt ecu back up and put kick panel back on.
Very useful information.
BUMP :1bowdown
 

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This things should definetely be done. Never know if owners(last) ever treated them with proper maintnence. Nothing better than a HEALTHY MOTOR
 

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Great write ups on things to do first i've injoyed reading the posts, since the post seems to be still read if you dont mind i'll add my first item to must get was a solid one piece driveshaft mine was 370 bucks from "ShaftMasters" but worth every penny spent.. car shifts, drives, moves, so much better than the stock 4foot two pieces of crap that was weighing down my underbelly.. for what ever reason that was designed for isnt good enough that was just silly.. i know 250 - 450 bucks to shell out is alot but a center bearing can cost from 70 - 120$ plus its needs to be pressed on, Ujoint replacements dont quite fit right after factory non-servicable ones go bad. if your car is pretty sound and your looking for first performance upgrades hands down in my opnion the factory driveshaft has to get thrown off the cliff...
 

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Discussion Starter #112
wow its been a few years since i have been on the forum I got a honda shadow aero and that has become my new toy. its nice to see people still useing this info.
 

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Great intro thread, good luck on your 240 man!
 
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