i checked my subframe bolts and there all torqued down to 80ft/lbs like there sopposed to be and i was checking the driveshaft and diff and found out that theres freeplay in my diff causing the clunking noise. With my 2 way i can move one wheel some before it starts to turn the other one. It doesnt seem right to me. How much freeplay should be in a diff?

 

can someone who has Subframe Collars and a Clutch Type LSD give me some feedback on how there car drives as far as clunkyness goes?

 

Its your drive shaft/ axels.

Jack up your car, crank the ebrake and try to twist your driveshaft while the car is out of gear, you shouldnt be able to move it, if there is play then you need to find out where the play is coming from and replace the part. Its probably the rear axels. They work much like CV's on a FWD, when they devolop play they clunk, its really annoying.

 

I just talked to a shop and told them how i can move one wheel before the other starts moving with it and they told me i broke something in my 2 way. Its very likely since the Nismo 2 Way is nothing but a Z31 diff with 2 clutch disks added. Its pretty shitty. So when i powerbraked 2nd gear yesterday i must have fucked something up in the diff. Im gonna get a ATS 1.5 Way to replace it in another few weeks so this never happens again.

NEVER BUY A NISMO "STREET" 2 WAY LSD!!! THEY SUCK!!!

 

I have a stock 240 and I have that clunking sound when I get on an off the gas. I'm hoping that it is just the bushings. I plan to get an LSD anyway though.

 

your clunk is probably just bad subframe bushings like i had before i put the collars in. I ran fine untill my burnout then the diff started making a banging type clunk . I broke whatever locks the wheels together. Nows theres free play in each wheel before they lock together. im gonna put an open diff in this week to drive the car without that noise. If its not one thing its another.

 

I would say a LSD from a J30 woudn't ba a bad replacemnet. You could always weld your diff! Cheap and easy.

 

Fuck the goo type LSD and im not bothering with welding an open diff. Im just gonna do it right and get a Kaaz or ATS depending on how much money ive got to spend in the next few weeks. I didnt buy the Nismo one myself so im not out much. It came with the car when i bought it before i did my motor swap. It was drifted some and was probably broke and once i put the Collars in i made its life even shorter by doing the powerbrake. Once i know im getting a new LSD put in, im gonna powerbrake this piece through 1st, 2nd, and try to hit 3rd. If i cant get third im gonna do some donuts and clutch kicks to get it to spin and try to break it completely. Breaking this LSD will help relieve the frustration of this thing pissing me off. Unless someone wants to buy it and rebuild it then ill take it easy.

 

I will pay $20 and shipping for your LSD

 

did you get an alignment after you installed the spacers?

 

aliognemnt would be a good idea i didnt think of that but i dont think thats his problem.


the lsd i tihnk will have some little play in it before it locks up, depending on how much throttle or braking your doing, and how aggresive its set.

the nismo street one i think is the most "streetable" if you will lol lsd.

when you get a new one yay for having to break another one in lol

 

Id rather break this LSD to pieces than sell it for $20. As far as alignment goes the car drives straight and the tires seem to where evenly so im not worried about that. The LSD is actually broke because when i jack it up and turn the wheel, it used to turn the other wheel right with it. Now the one wheel turns by itself then catches the other one making a loud clunky bang noise. I probably broke whatever keeps the wheels turning together. It used to chirp tires when making turns now it makes a few chirps and alot of clunks. I cant wait to get my next paycheck and buy an ATS Deftforce 2 Way.

 

it could have play but once you losen your sub frame your alignment is off.

 

2-way LSD's clunk like hell.. You're scared of that little clunk? You should hear a Cusco. I think you're just hearing it more now that you have metal to metal frame bushings.

 

when i put the collars in, everything was fine untill i powerbraked 2nd gear and now its not locking the way it should be. A clutch type diff is sopposed to rotate the wheels together when you turn them. Mine turns one wheel about an 1/8th turn then the other wheel turns along with a bang coming from inside the diff. It never used to do this before, even right after installing the collars. Ive had this diff for a year now and i know how its sopposed to be. My 2 way did clunk but never used to bang like somebody is hitting the bottom of my car untill after my burnout.

How can moving the subframe a little change the alignment? Theres nothing on the subframe to align. I never touched any of the suspension arms at all so nothing should be out of alignment.

 

all the suspension arms are directly on the subframe.

you know what. i bet you did lol your retarded lol jk


when you droped the subframe a little to put the bushings in, did you remove the drive shaft? it might have not ben able to bend lol and just broke sometihng. idk


also, the only thing holding the subframe to tehj actualy car, is those 4 bolts, and the rear shocks

 

im just gonna keep running my car untill the LSD stops working completely then ill buy another one. havnt bothered getting an alignment done because im constantly upgrading the suspension of the car. i stopped worrying about it today. as long as the car drives it'll be ok.

 

A CLUTCHED LSD WILL NOT TURN THE TIRES ALL THE TIME.. Only when they have a

LOAD ON THEM,Hence the Clutch, they make it easier for you to turn at low speeds.

ONLY LSD TO TURN BOTH WHEELS NO MATTER WHAT ARE A WELDED

DIFF!!

 

why even upgrade your suspesion if you to cheap lol to get a decent alignemnt