you are going to need to replace your intercooler with a greddy, hks ect.......dont push 13 psi on the stock intercooler. they say not over 10psi on stock intercooler

 

yeah i'm still waiting on the fmic

i'm just a little power anxious

 

Does anyone run EGT's anymore???

Sean

 

I have one.

 

I have one.

There is hope... :1bowdown

 

i forgot, but besides measuring the doing what it's name is implying, what's it do?

 

EGT? Exhaust Gas Temp. The easiest way to figure out what it does is to read it backwards. Tempature of exhaust gas. Another words it reads how hot the air is inside the exhaust manifold. This is good because it takes no readings from ecu and helps prevent detonation and from running to lean. Cool ass motors they just don't like to run lean at all. When they lean out they pron to detonation. Then they detonate...I promise you motor is history.

 

Hey So, 10psi is safe for most with a SMIC, you really should get a wide band A/F meter, I have heard the EGT sensor can break off and get sucked into the turbo.

Some people think they can guess tune, but end up hashing there engine.


Check out this link for a wide band A/F meter, best money you will ever spend: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php



BTW: I tried some guess tuning and hashed my SR in my red 200.....hehe, live and learn.

 

Hey So, 10psi is safe for most with a SMIC, you really should get a wide band A/F meter, I have heard the EGT sensor can break off and get sucked into the turbo.

Some people think they can guess tune, but end up hashing there engine.

Check out this link for a wide band A/F meter, best money you will ever spend: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php

BTW: I tried some guess tuning and hashed my SR in my red 200.....hehe, live and learn.

Ok, Wide band O2 is nice feature but do you have the ecu for tuning by it? If not you basically blind guess like everybody else. Do you know how hot the air is coming out? Do you know how much damage your doing by over pressurizing the motor? I mean there is a list of items needed to tuning..most of which are at the Dyno during your pull. I mean You can buy the best gauges in the world and they won't do any good unless you have the ecu to tune with. As far as EGT's breaking off out of the 4 years of building and using them...I've never had one break or get in the way. If you randomly boosting different numbers there is no better gauge for making sure you prevent detonation. Reason for that is the A/F is still being controlled by the ecu. So you only getting half true reading untill you go after market ecu and maf.

Sean

 

Ok, Wide band O2 is nice feature but do you have the ecu for tuning by it? If not you basically blind guess like everybody else. Do you know how hot the air is coming out? Do you know how much damage your doing by over pressurizing the motor? I mean there is a list of items needed to tuning..most of which are at the Dyno during your pull. I mean You can buy the best gauges in the world and they won't do any good unless you have the ecu to tune with. As far as EGT's breaking off out of the 4 years of building and using them...I've never had one break or get in the way. If you randomly boosting different numbers there is no better gauge for making sure you prevent detonation. Reason for that is the A/F is still being controlled by the ecu. So you only getting half true reading untill you go after market ecu and maf.

Sean

Hey Sean, if you would of went to the link I posted, you would of saw a hand held standalone wideband A/F meter that you can tune your engine with, it has a digtal read out built in it, and comes with wideband sensor, that you would install in your exhaust, but anyways what do you think dyno tunners tune with? well that would be A/F readings, if you have looked at dyno charts, you will also notice the A/F graph very important, if your A/F's numbers are good, you will have no problems with lean out.

 

Yes wideband o2 is the best money you will spend on your car (besides sr20 and maybe a new turbo). I have the PLX M-500 wideband w/ wireless logging. The thing is awesome and with that, EGT, Boost, and RPM, I can tune my car perfectly with an s-afc (standalone is a waste for the power I'm ever going to be pushing).

And yes that side-mount is the chocke point in your engine now. Get a FMIC and you can run .9-1 Bar easily.

 

A wireless wideband, now thats cool, were did ya get that?



BTW: my setup is pretty much like yours, JWT ecu rom tune here, don't have the SS manifold, do you have the Greddy turbo extension pipe?

 

http://www.plxdevices.com/ and it is the greatest thing I have ever seen.

And no I don't have the greedy o2 housing... yet. What is a "turbo extension"? At what point in history did 240sx members decide they wanted to call this part something different from the rest of the free world?

 

At what point in history did 240sx members decide they wanted to call this part something different from the rest of the free world?

LMFAO!!!

seriously, it's called a god-damn o2 housing. EVERY other turbocharged platform on earth calls it an o2 housing, why the hell did nissan call it something different.

That said, EGT is good, as is a wideband. I think what nitefire was referring to is that a wideband in and of itself is a waste of $$. Sure, it'll tell you your accurate A/F ratio, but without some way of actually changing your A/F ratio (S-AFC, Standalone ECU, etc.) it's not really doing much. Then again, one could make the same generalization with an EGT gauge.

They're both good warning tools. They also happen to be good tuning tools (with the wideband being the more desirable, and more expensive of the two)

Edit: Brad, have any pictures of your car? I want to see how the rims look on it.

~matt

 

LMFAO!!!

seriously, it's called a god-damn o2 housing. EVERY other turbocharged platform on earth calls it an o2 housing, why the hell did nissan call it something different.

That said, EGT is good, as is a wideband. I think what nitefire was referring to is that a wideband in and of itself is a waste of $$. Sure, it'll tell you your accurate A/F ratio, but without some way of actually changing your A/F ratio (S-AFC, Standalone ECU, etc.) it's not really doing much. Then again, one could make the same generalization with an EGT gauge.

They're both good warning tools. They also happen to be good tuning tools (with the wideband being the more desirable, and more expensive of the two)

Edit: Brad, have any pictures of your car? I want to see how the rims look on it.

~matt

ya, you can install a adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and change your A/F
ratio lean or rich.

Not that it matters, but Most online SR parts stores call it a Greddy Turbo Extension pipe, I guess to keep some from getting upset it could be called o2 Turbo Extension pipe.

 

ya, you can install a adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and change your A/F
ratio lean or rich.

I'm fairly sure you know what you're talking about, and without getting into a full dissertation on why what you said doesn't really make sense, I'll just say the above information is fairly dangerous given the number of noobs who may read that, think "wow, I can install an FPR and call it a day" and then go blow up their motors.

~matt

 

It would be very foolish to change your fuel pressure with out someway to monitor the A/F ratios, thats why you need a wideband o2 + A/F meter to change fuel pressure up or down depending on the A/F numbers your are running at the time.

 

It would be very foolish to change your fuel pressure with out someway to monitor the A/F ratios, thats why you need a wideband o2 + A/F meter to change fuel pressure up or down depending on the A/F numbers your are running at the time.

Getting closer. It's still foolish to tune via changing fuel pressures. It's a half-assed approach. Not to mention that fuel injectors are designed to operate with a specific fuel pressure (or range of pressures) feeding them, and lowering (or raising) that pressure can have very adverse effects on the injector spray patterns.

If you're going to tune your car, do it properly. Use an AFC/GCC, or better yet, get a ROM tune or run a standalone.

~matt

 

Getting closer. It's still foolish to tune via changing fuel pressures. It's a half-assed approach. Not to mention that fuel injectors are designed to operate with a specific fuel pressure (or range of pressures) feeding them, and lowering (or raising) that pressure can have very adverse effects on the injector spray patterns.

If you're going to tune your car, do it properly. Use an AFC/GCC, or better yet, get a ROM tune or run a standalone.

~matt

You will not have to worry about spray pattern being bad with turning up the fuel pressure. Unless you want to run upwards of 100 psig of fuel pressure.

Upping the fuel pressure was the method of tuning for MANY car before the SR20DET fad came in. I have been doing minor tuning on my Buick Grand National for the last 6 years. There are guys that have been doing it for over 15 years.

If you have a way of checking your AFR, changing your fuel pressure in small amounts is good for the WOT tuning. It really will not change the idle or cruise AFR since the oxygen sensor "should" compensate.

 

Ok, Wide band O2 is nice feature but do you have the ecu for tuning by it? If not you basically blind guess like everybody else. Do you know how hot the air is coming out? Do you know how much damage your doing by over pressurizing the motor? I mean there is a list of items needed to tuning..most of which are at the Dyno during your pull. I mean You can buy the best gauges in the world and they won't do any good unless you have the ecu to tune with. As far as EGT's breaking off out of the 4 years of building and using them...I've never had one break or get in the way. If you randomly boosting different numbers there is no better gauge for making sure you prevent detonation. Reason for that is the A/F is still being controlled by the ecu. So you only getting half true reading untill you go after market ecu and maf.

Sean

Sean, I really like the info that you are giving to the new guys.

I will add something though.

There is another meter that is jsut as important as the AFR and EGT. The knock meter. No one makes one for the imports that is worth a shit though. I have one on my Grand National.

That being said. If you can guarantee that there is no knock, and your AFR is good, you will not have a problem melting/blowing up parts. You might, though, if you are pushing MAD amounts of horsepower.

EGTs are good for individual cylinder tuning, but using it for collective cylinder tuning, the AFR is much better for tuning. Simply changing the timing will alter the EGT readings.

I used to tune with a knock meter and an EGT, but I stopped using the EGT and now use the PLX Devices M-300.

I am a dealer for PLX Devices and Innovate Motorsports is anyone wants a wide band kit!!

 

I used to tune with a knock meter and an EGT, but I stopped using the EGT and now use the PLX Devices M-300.

I am a dealer for PLX Devices and Innovate Motorsports is anyone wants a wide band kit!!

Amen brother, I have the PLX M-500 and it is the greatest thing since they started swirling peanut butter & jelly together in the same jar.

 

Ok, my post about adjusting fuel pressure was misleading, you should not go below factory spec fuel pressure, adjusting fuel pressure is only good for a set boost/load level, so you would have to change your fuel pressure for a higher or lower set boost/load levels.

Matts right, a standalone, or dyno rom tunned ecu is you best bet.