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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a s13 with 170,000 the head gasket recently blew. a week ago i picked up a new KA24e with the same amount of miles on it for 200 bucks. dont flame... I know... the reasoning is: the block is out of the car so I can Build the "new" one and drop her in. I want to rebuild and plan on getting it machined at my local shop. Now for what I'm asking advice for. My absolute spending limit is 2,000 dollars and not a penny more. I need a plan to get this oh so loved drift king back on the street and me to work lol. Over the summer I plan on turboing the KA. What's the best route to take? The absolute most efficient way to spend 2G on the engine? and of course... The "Pros" and.. well the "Cons"? any advice is welcome and appreciated.

Thanks,
Die4240
 

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I think the best route would be to replace the head gasket... And upgrade to ARP studs so that when you get a legitimate reason to rebuild the motor, it will be one less thing to do. Stick with a felpro gasket. -- Then use the $1850 and change left in your engine rebuild budget for decent engine management and decent parts for when you turbo the car later. Don't forget to replace injector o-rings when 'upgrading' with used injectors off another car.


If you do a full rebuild, pistons are about the only thing you'd need to upgrade, and even then only after you're making like 300 or so wheel HP.

Two key areas I wouldn't bother upgrading if I had a limited budget turbo build happening: Rods, stock is good to 400 hp, no need to upgrade. Cams, you're gonna have boost, just run an extra couple pounds and more than make up the difference.
 

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if you want to do a real rebuild.. such as replacing bearings, timing components, oil pump, gaskets, pistons. rings, seals,make sure the rods are still decent, etc.. it is quite a lot more. but it is still affordable with your budget.
just find a rebuild kit that suits you and is not off ebay,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea I wanna do a legit rebuild. This car is my Legit "baby". I wanna stomp all over civics (Even though I will stock with a blown head gasket hahaha) But I also want a reliable car that I can trust to Drive 100 Miles to blank and 100 miles back to blank. I want another 5-6 years out of the car. Can you post some links to where I can find a legit rebuild kit for like 500 bucks? And the ARP bolts? you mean the valve cover bolts???
 

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The new KA24 i got doesnt have the blown head gasket. but itd prolly be a good idea to upgrade to a metal such as copper insight of future engine safety. Correct?
The thing that keeps the head gasket from blowing is CLAMPING FORCE. The gasket itself doesn't really mater. Felpro gaskets see big HP all the time. The only thing a metal gasket gains you is that you can re-use them. And if you're tearing down the engine every month or two, then yeah go for the metal one it will pay for itself before too long.


Sorry for miss reading the post, I've been drinking a bit tonight.

I still say simply replace the head gasket on the current motor with a felpro or copper and upgrade to ARP studs on it. Then rebuild the spare motor's bottom end with new pistons and bearings; add ARP main studs and rod bolts if you're feeling like it. That approach should keep you well upder your budget cap of 2k, and get you back on the road sooner and much cheaper than trying to wait on an engine build. When you're ready to switch to the built motor, just steal the ARP head studs (and metal head gasket if you go with that) out of the current motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Beginners forum remember lol. I'm deffinately more enthusiest then mechaniclally inclined... I do everything else myself. but tearing a block down to the heads is something I jus do not have the equipment for or the experience. I'll change some gaskets,oil pump, water pump, Timing Chain, etc but Replace the head gasket seems risky
 

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The thing that keeps the head gasket from blowing is CLAMPING FORCE. The gasket itself doesn't really mater. Felpro gaskets see big HP all the time. The only thing a metal gasket gains you is that you can re-use them. And if you're tearing down the engine every month or two, then yeah go for the metal one it will pay for itself before too long.
This is total nonsense. Metal gaskets have many advantages over the cheap graphite type. You need to do some research. Although you can use a regular headgasket on a turbo engine at lower boost pressures and be ok, they become much more susceptible to damage as the cylinder pressures and temps rise. Yes cheap ones can be used but metal beats them hands down. And if you do consider a metal gasket forget about copper, get a MLS (multi layer steel). More and more new cars are using MLS from
The factory, why? Because they are better.....
 

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You can rebuild a worthy SOHC for sub-$500 Add machining and the price will obviously go up, but 2k should get you pretty far. I would say, a full rebuild, machining, generic header and an O&J cam would cost around $1,200-1,500 or so if you did it yourself.
Plan on spending at minimum 2k for someone else to machine and rebuild it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks everyone for all the opinions and help so Far. I'm deffinately gonna do the rebuild. My uncle has a shop and will drop da engine for for FREEEEEEE. Now I just need to start. Please post links on parts I should purchase from Reliable companys and sites. I'm gonna start with Aesin OEM oil and water pumps and probably Go all Felpro for gaskets. but I'll need pistons, Rings, etc Preferably in a package.

Thanks again!
Die4240
(and yes I would)
 

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Believe it or not, but I've used several engine kits from Mizumoauto and Domestic gaskets from ebay with excellent results. I've torn down two engines that had the piss ran out of them with these engine kits in them (one destroyed a wrist-pin bushing) and they looked pretty good. For having seen over 7,000rpm almost daily, the bearings and pistons really took a beating and showed no excessive wear.
Good machining, ring/bearing gaps to suit your driving habits and balancing will go a long way.
 

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This is total nonsense. Metal gaskets have many advantages over the cheap graphite type. You need to do some research. Although you can use a regular headgasket on a turbo engine at lower boost pressures and be ok, they become much more susceptible to damage as the cylinder pressures and temps rise. Yes cheap ones can be used but metal beats them hands down. And if you do consider a metal gasket forget about copper, get a MLS (multi layer steel). More and more new cars are using MLS from
The factory, why? Because they are better.....
YOU sir, are total nonsense. Do you think most manufacturer's put metal head gaskets on stock turbo cars? No. I pushed 19psi on the subie with no problem whatsoever.

You also neglected to mention the head and block work needed for proper MHG use.

Is a MHG nice? Yup. Is the install process MUCH more important? Absolutely.
 

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YOU sir, are total nonsense. Do you think most manufacturer's put metal head gaskets on stock turbo cars? No. I pushed 19psi on the subie with no problem whatsoever.

You also neglected to mention the head and block work needed for proper MHG use.

Is a MHG nice? Yup. Is the install process MUCH more important? Absolutely.
YOU missed the whole point... I said more manufacters are putting them on cars.

And the other guy was saying a cheap felpro gasket was as good as metal. He is wrong.

And I'm sure subaru head Gaskets are designed to hold boost. Hell I never had a problem with my stock SR headgasket. Still doesnt mean MLS isnt better

You are right but you missed the point I was trying to make.
 

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I skimmed over the conversation, and i think what the problem may be is you saying that MHG's are better all around, while Boostin is taking into account all the factors of bang for the buck and reasonable need of a MHG.

Of course MHG are better quality, that's why you're paying 8x the price. The point is, that 95% of the people on here don't need a MHG because they aren't putting out that much power and are not constantly rebuilding their motor.
 

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I say.... Helicoils the block threads and head threads... Everywhere. Bolt that junk down in it's pattern evenly, get it juuuust a hair more than the torque specs should call for... If ur worried about gaining too much compression by doing that, or not enough cushion molding, then sister 2 gaskets in there! No leaks? Good cushion? Good compression? More than snug?meh ur good dood.

And honestly, if ur new to timing n stuff, the front cover and all that entails, is what should scare ya. The head itself is just like any other gasket. Get it in even and seat it well. It's just big.. that doesn't make it more complicated than a water pump. Take out the fuel rail n put the bolts back, then the intake, and put those bolts right back where they go. Do the exhaust and put those bolts back. Do the ps bracket and idler, put those bolts back, take the head to timing cover (top of tc) bolts out.. store em. Get ur wires out the way, unscrew the valve cover n put those bolts back. Put a hanger up on the cam pulley to keep the chain on the teeth. Wiggle the head out n prop it weird, so u can hold that cam sprocket tight and put the hanger around the head and back into the guy. Get ur ground wire too! And ur done... Just did mine about 4 hours ago. Took me an hour and 45min and I haven't tried that in 6 years. As long as nothing is lost, wudda ya got to lose? Lol that saying and "nothin to it but to do it" are my motivations. Ya get to learn, spend half the money, and u can always spend a hair more by having someone double check u. Mechanics will charge less, to just poke around, rather than do the work dood
 
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