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Low budget ka build costs and questions

4.8K views 57 replies 13 participants last post by  InsaneIan  
#1 · (Edited)
Low budget turbo ka build costs and questions

You may have read my 'another what to get thread' and it looks like I got lucky. I got a little bit from my 'fender bender' a little bit from selling my quad, now it looks like somebody wants my old race bike, AND, I got a better job, so im going to have about six months down time this summer before my enrollment date.

BEFORE YOU READ THE REST, im definately a 'noob' when it comes to boost and I know that. Ive helped install a couple systems (two dsm's, and a crx) and im fine with installing the mechanical parts.... once I know WHAT to do, but tuning and management is where I get LOST.

Im basically looking for somebody who as actually done a "junkyard boost build"

My engine is getting up there as far as mileage, but the compression is perfect across all four, and a 45 year old lady drove it from when it was brand new (so its been BABIED), until she decided to play chicken with another car(fell asleep...drifted into another lane)
... she lost, I got the car.

There are a lot of sabb's, and a few dodge turbo trucks in a yard that my dad is a childhood friend of, and I know the guys son (my dad has helped him do work on his house and his cars) so, I can get a turbo off of one of them cheap.... along with an intercooler (he has a couple off of dsm's, and another one that was a car he got in) All of them LOOK to be in pretty good shape. (could be decieving, I know)

My main questions-
Ive searched for this one, What car will have a turbo w/a common ka exhaust mani flange
what will I need as far as management? (was thinking about a good manual boost controller, and as stated before, im lost with tuning, and keeping a turbo system in check)
What size injectors do you guys reccomend?
would I just be better off BUYING a bov instead of going junkyard with that too?
and... what main things am I missing?

Exhaust work is no problem, I can bend whatever I need. (right now I have a custom 2.5)
intercooler piping wont be a problem either, along with fittings, clamps, and mounting hardware.

For you guys that have done it... how much did you have involved?
And for the reader thats going to say SEARCH, im reading a few articles right now and have been looking at this stuff for a while. Those are still my main questions and concerns.
 
#3 · (Edited)
alright, cool... I was thinking it was sabb's that came with a t3. How much would I be looking at to get the ecu tune that I would need to run a low boost set up?

Even with running at a minimum, im going to need a fuel pump too, arent I?

Plus, have you heard anything about clearance issues from ebay's cast manifolds?
I dont want to go tube because I think its going to be too expensive, and im not going to buy a cheap tube manifold from the 'great stories' I have heard about them.

Then again.. if I got a flex pipe, and didnt drive like an asshole (hitting potholes and speed bumps going 40 mph) do you think I would be ok?
 
#4 ·
A tune can vary in prices about $100- $600 depending where u look. Check out KA-t.org for that. Yeah u need a higher flowing fuel pump(Walboro 255, Z32, etc.) and z32 fuel filter. Ive never seen an ebay cast manifold. The ebay Stainless Steel mani will be fine if you get it braced and reinforced.
 
#5 ·
the manifold was my main concern next to tuning. im going to check out ka-t now, and I should be able to get a hold of a fuel pump too....

as far as getting the manifold reinforced, that shouldnt be a problem either.

im going to try to put together a list (and list the best prices I could find)
then again... somebody let me know whats missing.
 
#6 ·
THE '80'S 300zx Turbos used a T3 as well ( with a built in waste gate.

Do a LOT, I mean a VERY LARGE AMOUNT of research into this subject to turbo charging. have a set goal for HP.

Keep your eyes open for deals on new or used parts.

I suggest reading the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, if you want to know about turboing and what is really happening. But a lot of guys have pulled off cheap boosting that is reliable...
 
#7 · (Edited)
As far as a power goal, its going to be whatever the turbo produces operating on a low boost. (im guessing it would be right around 200? correct me if im wrong)

And for 'knowing whats really happening' I think ive got a fairly good understanding. I know how an internally gated turbo works to control the boost level, how a bov works... and so on. Like I said earlier im great with the mechanical part, ive just never had experience with the electrical part. (although im still going to look up the book, lol)

im hoping to someday be one of those guys that 'pulled off cheap boosting that is reliable'

I found some more info I was looking for. Ive been wanting to do this since for a LONG time, then I saw the 'junkyard turbo' section in a sport compact... a guy with a red S14 did it with a dodge truck turbo, and intercooler. So ive been looking up everything he did, but still no price estimate.
 
#8 ·
Exhaust mani - tubular, make your own, cast
Turbo - t3 of a sabb or turbo 2.3 ford
Wastegate - internal or external, depends on which turbo you choose
exhaust dump tube
downpipe
oil feed and return lines
intercooler piping
intercooler core
couplers
clamps
gaskets

tuning:
larger injectors for sure. duty cycle will be maxed out quickly
some type of rom tuner, emulator, chip tune, mail tune, piggy back, megasquirt ect ect
manual boost controler (wouldn't advise it), get a good wastegate actuator

Fuel:
bigger pump like skyline, z32, supra, walrbo, there are tons out there
new fuel lines
filter
clamps

ignition:
possibly colder range spark plugs
low resistance cables
Timing retard either by backing off base timing (lazy way), or remapped on the ecu or some kind of ignition retard box

hopefully that helps
 
#10 ·
200 hp is real easy with a t3...

As far as ECU options...

a daughter-board and Eprom tuning i a great way to go, and you can learn how to tune your own car, without losing any OEM features..

You can get into ROM tuning for less than $200 for the daughter board and Eprom burner...
 
#13 · (Edited)
The turbo there is a 3 bolt... claiming that a three or five bolt elbow will fit, but how can it seal up if the 5 bolt elbow is oval shaped, and the turbine outlet is a 3 bolt circle?

As far as tuning goes, I think ive fiinally got everything figured out. Next step... fuel rail and injectors. I can just use an aem rail or something to mount sr injectors, cant I?

The walbro is the only thing ive bought, and actually HAVE as of right now.

My last questions about parts.... Should I bother to change the wastegate actuator, AND, what would be my maximum SAFE boost on a 91 ka.

I know my engine could handle way differently than anybody elses, just wondering what you guys have seen run realiably on a non-built ka.

just about 130,000 miles, compression is perfect, its got new studs, head gasket, and replaced the pistons/rods and crank. So its not really a 91 internally, the block/head are the only old things.

Anything I should be worried about?
 
#14 ·
As far as tuning goes, I think ive fiinally got everything figured out. Next step... fuel rail and injectors. I can just use an aem rail or something to mount sr injectors, cant I?
SR injectors drop into a KA24DE rail just fine

Anything I should be worried about?
Sure...

Head gaskets, oil leaks, running too lean and cooking a piston, detonation, pre-ignition, etc..

how ever, if you keep it within reality, and not crank the boost too far, it will last a long time...

According to the formulas in Corky Bell's book, you only need 7 psi of boost to hit 200 RWHP (236 FWHP), which your stock KA should have no trouble with...
 
#15 ·
For the 'worries' I was leaning towards the parts listed and what ive been talking about using, I can see all of that as being a CONSTANT threat.

Anyway, it wont go much past 7 psi then. What COULD I run? Again, not looking for huge numbers, but I do want to get the most out of what im going to have (Without putting anything in obvious danger)

I mean, something around 9 psi still be ok on stock internals? And any idea what that would get me hp wise?
 
#19 · (Edited)
my bad... the other one I was looking at has another piece bolted on there, and i was seeing the bolt pattern for the downpipe...

let me know what boost you guys have heard of running on stock internals. (or what you run personally) and it running without problems. Ive seen tons of videos of up to about 11/12 psi on what they claim to be stock internals getting close to and over 300 whp... but I imagine thats getting awfully close to the danger zone. and have also seen videos/pics of pistons and rods giving up righ about there.

And yet another question...

Manual boost controller? If I get from a reputable name, are there still major threats? (boost spikes, cutting out?)
 
#21 ·
Personally I was looking at a garrett from a personal deal. The turbo and manifold are probably the only thing name brand I will be getting. Ive just recently found the thread with an ebay turbo that was literally split in two, and it had a glue looking residue on the sides of the compressor housing that blew apart.
 
#24 ·
Yea, compared to even a few months ago it seems everything is a tad bit more expensive. And 240 kid, thats kind of what I was figuring... 200whp will be a nice change though, haha.

I just wanted to get this project done before im off to school, then I will save up for an engine build, and HOPEFULLY use all of the parts I have to get a little more power once I can safely turn the boost up.
 
#25 ·
7 psi SHOULD net you about 195-200 at the rear wheels, which is up around 230 at the crankshaft...

I would imagine that would put a smile on your face for a while... ;)
 
#26 ·
Yes, stay away from ebay turbos.

Check out KA-T.org like said above alot of great info.

For tuning I have heard alot of good things about the EFI specialties ECMs, that along with a SAFC for fine tuning would probably be an effective form of management. There is also the choice of JWT but their tunes seem to be on the safe side and can make your car run rich and not have as much power. There is also Enthalpy? which is pretty much biased some people love them some hate them. Either way making sure you have a proper tune will make all the difference in power and reliability. You can run 5lbs of boost and pop ur engine with a bad tune.

You may also want to look into a better MAF such as the N60 or N62(?) but the stocker should be alright at low boost levels, however they can be maxed out pretty easily.

Also you have to decide on top mount or bottom mount. Its really more personal preference some say one has better oil drain back then the other, center of gravity, easier to work on ect. ect. But for you I would just go bottom mount then you can run SR turbo elbow and downpipe. Topmount would require a custom elbow, or you can get the JGS log mani and elbow combo.
 
#27 ·
Bow- yea, thats what I keep thinking about. Thats a BIG jump from what im used too, so it should keep me happy for a while.

I was thinking bottom mount, for the reason you just said. Everything else I think I have figured out. I dont think im going to get the garrett that I was supposed to get. The guy backed out on the sale. Ive got to find a freaking SR turbo now....
Anybody have one they wanna sell me? :thumbsup