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Discussion Starter #1
hey all,

i have a 240sx and im trying to get the right suspendsion to hook. right now im running JIC coilovers with 9k springs in the back and 7k in the front. i bought the car with this set up from a drifter. i need to know what should i get so i can cut 1.5 60 " i know i need to change the springs out but will the JIC coilovers work ok for what im trying to do. i was going to run some 15x8 pro star welds with a D/R and some 15x3 skinnies up front. im thinking that setup might do the trick what you all think?
 

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240-kid
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First thing, get rid of that 9kg and get either the 5kg that came with it, or possibly an 4kg spring. that should do the trick...
 

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the shocks in drag racing coilovers are completely different as far as valving goes. the rebound and compression ratios are almost completed inverted, the compression is really soft, and the rebound is really stiff . hks is about the only company that i know of that makes coilovers for 240's. havn't heard too much about em though
 

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240-kid
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+1, but the closest he's gonna get w/o having to get a complete new Coil set-up is that softer rear spring and drop the Rear dampening down accordingly...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
ok ill try new springs first. 4k all around or 4k for the back what do i do for the front so the front end comes up when i hit the gas?
i need weight tranfer from the front.who should i go to for springs hks jic who else makes springs that are 4k and softer?
 

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240-kid
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JIC Makes Springs for there, coils, just go with those. Just leave the fronts there fine...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well if i get 4k for the back then the 7k for the front will be to hard. it wont let the front come up for weight transfering ill try setiing the JICs on 1 all around then add in the 4k springs int he back as see what happens there. i wanted the front to come up like a mustang does.
 

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240-kid
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I fail to see how that Front Spring rate effects the front wheels coming off the ground. Thats sounds more like a Power/Traction thing...
 

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what he is saying is true. most drag coil set ups use spring rates that are closely matched for front and rear. you want the spring to absorb a lil if the front end picks up due to hooking up so well. its your money man, if you dont have any deadlines i would do what 240kid is saying, just get a softer rear spring. if it still doesnt hook up or if it does hook up well in the rear & the fronts dont give & the car starts getting unsettled right after you launch you might have to get softer front springs like 6 or 5k in the front. experiment with the rear springs first and then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ya im just hopeing that the JIC coil-overs will work for this setup. i was not wanting to drop 2k into new coilovers. i would rather use that 2k for a build sr.im going to try springs forsure first in the rear. would you guys say remove the sway bar so it helps the life up front? thats what i did to my stang it helps alot.what u guys think.
 

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240-kid
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Truth fully, our cars aren't really gonna get those results due to our rear suspension. When you guys have solid axles and you twist it coming off the line, it acts as a spring to shove the axle back down into the ground giving awesome traction (Im sure you know that) But our Multi link doesn't hook as well so you might want to look into improving other things before you think about your 40 lifting up the rear wheels. Because sad to say even Ivan from AMS can can't get his wheels off the ground putting down 750+ using 28" Slicks so...

Not to mention if you did a bit of reading, you would know that the S13 Rear sub-frame has the most Anti-Squat which also reduces rear traction. You have alot more to look forward to before you worry about Front wheel lift...
 

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Put some subframe spacers in just the back of the subframe to raise your instant center and help plant the tires.

Come on scott, havent you done performance chassis theory in school yet?

Also squat is bad, what you want is the car to lift and the tires to go down, pushing away from themselves, all drag cars do this, however the soft sidewall usually gives the illusion of the rear of the car "squating" when its just the tire collapsing.

Front spring rate really isnt important as its mostly the valving, you want a fast rebound and hard compression, so the shock comes up fast and doesnt come down fast at all, keeping the nose up and the weight back. That is why front drag shocks are called 90/10s. Youll also want to keep the right rear stiffer to help keep the car flat and have both tires planted equally.

A good tire will also help alot. Id try to go as big as you can in the rear, like 275 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yes i had 90/10s on my stang i loved them!! also i do have subframe spaces aready they came with the car when i bought the car. there rubber and blue dont no the name of them and i dont no if there good for what im aiming for. ill put them in and see what happens. im thinking of taking the struts down to 1 or 0 and adding in a nice 4k or even 2k spring in the back. i hope this will make the back soft anough to get that bit im looking for. im trying to get some welds on my car just dont no what offset ill need to be flush with the chassie so when the car dips it doesnt rub the tires and pop them. i was think 15x10 in the back with a 275/60/15 M/T. just dont no if i can fit that with JIC coilovers.
 
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