Unbolt the 2 bolts at the base of the distributor...and take it out.

Getting it in will be harder...SOHC have a little notch that is used to line up the rotor where it should be, I don't know how to do that for DOHCs.

 

i managed to take it out, and put it back in, but i duno if i lined it up correctly, and the timing

now it just cranks
and i heard a loud bang when i tried cranking

i just noticed when i crank the engine, black smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe

 

yeah, you didn't get it lined up correctly...
do a search for distributor timing.
there ought to be a nice write up that takes you every step of the way.
that loud bang is the explostion happening while the valves are open.. probably the intake side.... so don't do it until you get it fixed...
let me know if you find that write up...

 

Tools needed:
Timing light
10mm and 8mm socket/wrench or #2 phillips head screwdriver.

1) Set the motor to #1 cylinder TDC via the crank pulley(2nd mark from the left when facing engine from front)
2) Line up the marks on the distributor.
3) Slide it in, making sure the rotor is almost about to fire off #1.
4) Turn distributor while cranking engine and get it to start/idle.
5) If the engine still does not start, turn the crankshaft pulley another 360°(camshafts spin at 1/2 the speed of the crank).
6) Let the engine warm up, then shut it off and unplug the TPS sensor.
7) Turn engine back on.
8) Hook up the timing light and turn distributor until timing is at 20°(20° is the last mark all the way on the right while facing the engine).
9) Shut off engine, tighten all bolts, plug the TPS in and go have a beer.
10) Send me $15 via paypal.

 

Yeah, when the crank is at Top dead center the distributer rotor should be pointing directly to the first cylinder conductor. When your putting the distributer in, turn it one gear tooth counter clockwise from where you want it because the rotor will turn as your putting the distributer back in.

 

how do you turn the distributor and crank the engine?
dont you have to put the cap thing with all the spark plug wires back in?


so in step #5, is the crank pulley that one in the bottom of the pic?

how do you tell where the crank is? to be honest i dont even know what that is...lol so how to see if its at top center?
i tried lining it up to where the first spark plug wire goes, put everything back, crank, nothing....


one last thing

that little white part where the line is pointing to, my original, i suspect its bad, distributor didnt have that white part, but the new used one i got off somebody had it
and is that the crank?

 

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=105618
I used this to help me do my distributer. But i didn't put it to TDC, I just made those two marks and lined them up and it worked. Also there are marks on your crank pulley that will help you put it to TDC. The crank pulley is the biggest pulley on the bottom center of your engine with three belts on it.

 

shit i think im a little late on the marking, cuz i already took them off...
good link no matter what
but is the black smoke normal?

 

the crank... hard to explain if you have no idea...
you need to be worried about the big pulley at the bottom of the engine, all of the belts go to it. only turn it clockwise. you can get a breaker bar and a big socket (forgot the size) and manually turn it. there will be several little notches in it. they can be hard to see if there is gunk on the pulley. so look carefully. there is also a little pin that sticks out of the block just about the pully. a little to the driver's side. line that pin up with the second to last notch. (i used a white out pin to make the notches more visible) thats top dead center. when you put the Dizzy in, you'll have to turn the rotor (the thing that picture is pointing at, that you're old dizzy didn't have) too far, cuz when you put it in, it will turn itself back. if you did it right, the rotor should be pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire... If everything doesn't line up right, don't try to start the car. It has to basically be perfect or it won't work.... you'll have to fine turn the dizzy once you get it lined up right, but for now, worry about getting it in right.

and for furture reference, when that little white piece isn't there, all you have to do is replace that little piece, you don't have to replace the whole dizzy. so next time, you'll save alot of hassle. hit me up with a pm if you need more details. I've done this so many times I can basically do it with my eyes closed...

 

haha
thanks mrwonderful!!
hopefully i can get the car started today...its been pissin me off for couple day now...
and my car is 50miles away from me/home =.=

 

The crank pulley is 27mm.

 

yep, don't know why i couldn't remember that.
a 1 1/16th will work too... not as well as a 27 mm, but if thats all you got, then it will work..

 

i just use that upper pulley, one closet to the distributor
i managed to find the mark n stuff, but still doesnt fire up....


nvm....car started...woot!!!

thanks alot everyone!!!
i'd rep if i still had rep power...haha

 

fucking hell!!!

car started, idles really high, but after warm up, everything seems to be back to normal
then all of a sudden, car starts bogging? basically rpm goes up n down around the 700-0 range fast, then car shut off, now it wont start again


oh and when i started the car, its shaking pretty bad...


actually nvm...everything should be back to normal now
thanks again ppl

 

Do you have a timing light? just because you got it all lined up enough to fire, your timing could still potentially be pretty far off.

As for not starting again, are you still getting spark and fuel?

 

i dont have a timing light, nor do i know where to get one...
but, i did try lining it up to what it was before, right now it idles around 800-850rpm, it was like this before too... little bit higher than factory spec

 

800-850 is normal... the factory tach isn't as accurate as we would like it to be...

 

really...once in a while it will drop back down to 750...
anyway, i just changed my fuel filter, it should help out my non starting issue after replacing the distributor!

 

I bought a timing light for 10 bones at harbor freight, you really need to pick one up. I forgot to tight the dizzy back up the last time I was fing aroudn with it, and in a 5 minute drive, my timing went back to 5 degrees, but still ran. Any part stores should have one, but you'll pay a lot if you can't get to harbor freight. I can ship you one if you really wanted.

 

then i guess i should go there n check it out, theres one about 10min away
is the timing light thing pretty much noob-proof to use?
haha...

 

Yes, it is. It has directions, but basically you connect to the pos and neg battery terminals, and spark wire number one. Then with the TPS off, and the car idling at 700 rpms, you shoot the timing light down towards the crank pulley, where there are notches in the pulley as well as a "needle". You shoot the light, and it illuminates the notches, where you need to set the distributor (so loosen up those bolts enough to turn it) so that timing sits right at 20 degress BTDC for dohcs, which should be the first notch from the right.

 

i went to harbor freight and checked it out today
$29.99...only one brand/model available...

lil out of my price range...

 

Try bringing your car to a mechanic and see if that matches your price range...

 

$30 for something you'll use for the rest of the time you own the car...

 

haha, i know, its gonna be even worse...

what is the other time u gonna use it?
its not some type of maintainance tool right? not something you have to do every once in a while

 

so after driving it for a while, i notice the car have a hard time starting whenever its cold out? or sometimes when im low on fuel, around the E mark
no i still havnt bought the timing light thing yet..haha

it cranks, but seems like choking on fuel, then it will start up just fine, only happens once in a while

 

someone mind ill. on how to use a timing light =] i think im getting the grasp of it but i think i need further details