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Nickisazero's SR20det Swapped S14.

11621 Views 87 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  BoostinIX
I picked up this 1995 Nissan 240sx from a guy in downtown Charleston who had owned it for 6 years and had been prepping for a RB swap on 5/16/10. I've built plenty of cars in the past, this being my first Nissan. Well the day came when he needed money for an engagement ring and then I showed up... $3100 later and I rolled away with this. 157,xxx miles, all working power options, a/c, power steering, clean interior. The only downfall of the car being the KA engine and a ding in the hood from somebody backing into him.

OEM fog light
OEM lip
OEM JDM side skirts
Navan Grill
B&M shifter
Crush bent 3" exhaust piping
Megan 3" downpipe
Nardi steering wheel
Tien HA coilovers
Nismo power brace
SPL Tension Rods
SPL subframe spacers
Battle Version RCA's
Grenade 17x9" wheels in +15 offset
Koyo full aluminum Radiator
Tein tie rods
SPL braided clutch line

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About a month after owning the car and it being slow ass dogshit, I decided to look into swapping it. First off I wanted to go with a nice V8 swap, but quickly released how pricey those came out to be. So I decided to settle with the SR20det, not to mention there's alot of experienced people out there with them.

I ordered the engine, transmission, ecu, harness, etc from Osaka Engines. Picked up a set of Avid billet mounts, Wiring Specialties transmission & engine harness, Koyo SR aluminum radiator, 12" slim fans, 3" Greddy style exhaust, Miata battery, front mount and Greddy blow-off.

I randomly decided to start the swap oneday at around 2shared_pm and had the new engine in around 10shared_pm. Not bad being my first RWD car and having no prior Nissan experience. Here's a few things I learned and would like to pass-on to anyone doing a SR swap....
-Lightly attach the engine mounts to the engine BEFORE installing the engine into the car.
-Take care of the waterneck running behind the head BEFORE installing it in the car.
-Remove that tube running into your o2 housing BEFORE installing the engine in the car. It hits the steering column and you cannot turn the wheel.
-Take your time installing your intercooler, they easily fit without having to hack-up the front bumper.

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As of today the car is running great, here's a few pictures of the car on the lift in our shop. I was welding up the damaged oil pan till I can get a replacement. I drove the car about 50miles of "spirited" driving tonight and didn't have a single issue. This car just screams for something to lock-up the rear end oh and BIGGER BRAKES!

I'll have new underhood pictures when I decide to clean-up some of the mess.
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Must be nice to have a lift
So clean, +1 sir...
Thanks for the good words, I always look forward to getting feedback. One thing that has me concerned is that I'm only running one o2 sensor and there isn't a bung in the downpipe for a second one. I do believe there was a connector for a second o2 sensors in the harness though.

As of right now I'll be ordering a Greddy knock-off oil pan, Megan o2 housing, another downpipe (KA downpipe on it now), weld diff, or put LSD in it, AEM tru-boost, AEM wideband. Then from there I don't really know...

I'd love to be able to break the backend free, but I looooove playing in the turns (not sliding through them). So I'm pretty hesitant to just weld the diff.

Also looking into upgrading brake pads/rotors and drilling them for a 4 lug setup. My stock ones are worn out and was kinda scary playing in the turns the other night. I definitely see why so many people upgrade them.
Good luck finding a shop to do it. i still havent
From the pictures that are showing up on my work computer, that thing looks soo clean very nice!
Good luck finding a shop to do it. i still havent
Finding a shop to do what, re-drill brake rotors? I'll do it myself.
): see i am not blessed to have a drill press lol. I have a q45 brake upgrade. all you need is new pads and redrill and your set
I remember somebody somewhere asking to see pictures of the engine bay, so here ya go:

Intercooler neatly tucked behind metal bumper & bumper cover (intercooler piping is in the way of my foglights).

Here's a quick tip I'll pass onto ya'll who are going to polish your headlights. I've used the 3M kits with all the different pads and cleaners and this works just aswell. It's Mother's Mad & Aluminum Polish that I always seem to have around. I normally just polish (in small circles) for about 5minutes on the headlight and hand buff it away and it turns out great. Especially since you can have this can around for years and have multiple purposes.



I'd love to have the amber front bumper lights & corner lights. Do they sell those, or are ya'll just painting them with amber/yellow stained glass paint?
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What a difference
There painted/stained.

Did you do it by hand? Use a powerball and a drill, you can do that in like 2mins a light.
Grenades!! Sweet!

Thats a hell of a deal you got there for a very clean car.
Nice S14 you've got there. Very clean!

If I remember correctly, (I could be wrong) the amber turn signal/corner lenses are typically from JDM S14s. Painting would work though.
Yeah, the JDM Zenki's came with the Amber Turn Signals but there a smaller size and won't fit properly in a USDM bumper.

* JDM Zenki 8 3/4" wide x 2 1/4" tall*
* USDM Light 9 3/4 wide x 2 3/8" tall*
nice s14 amng :rockon.

I see that you took off your fog lights, are you selling them? ive been looking for a pair with brackets for a while.
nice s14 amng :rockon.

I see that you took off your fog lights, are you selling them? ive been looking for a pair with brackets for a while.
I am actually, along with some other stuff.

Thanks for all the good comments guys. I'll look into painting my signal lights in the future.
The sell the oem JDM ones at Nissan. Cost alot but they are there and brand new
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