[ou811]

lip should be here soon; also picked up some led kouki tails. need to stop buying things i dont need lol.

im looking to scoop that chase bays power steering setup (the reservoir+lines) as well as their braided clutch line....maybe next month. also going to pick up a quest alternator while im at it.

coincidentally, the alternator on my ka24de crapped out on me on the way back from school a couple weeks ago. luckily i was able to limp home without headlights (it was about 10pm lol) and made it into my driveway. i probably wont get a replacement and just take it as a sign that i need to start hustling and get this engine swap done

 

[ou811]

weeee

 

[ou811]

 

[ou811]

so that valve keeper removal tool ended up being for domestics and way too large to work for the SR. unfortunately by the time I found out, I was about 2 weeks past my return period for it. Then another unfortunate, they only sell the metric sized tool in a set with the standard...so now I have $90 worth of those stupid removal tools. I havent gotten around to actually doing it yet :\

I wish I had someone around to help me out, getting near the 1 year mark and tired of seeing this stuff just sitting here

 

[Monkichi57]

I am planning on changing the springs/retainers/seals the next time I have a chance. Some dude made his own tool and has instructions on how to make one.
Valve Tool Instructions

I think I'll end up buying one like this on ebay though:
Valve Spring Remover Installer Compressor Tool Kit Fits Most Domestic Import Car | eBay

 

[ou811]

Thats pretty cool man. The lever style tool, that's just for the springs though right? Or does that remove the keepers as well?

 

[Monkichi57]

Yeah it's for the springs and you can use a magnetic wand to remove the keepers.

You can also use the keeper tool that you have and remove the keepers.

The link shows the guy shows both ways.
How to Build a 9000-rpm Head for your SR20DET

Hope it helps.

 

[ou811]

one thing to note about that link-
Im replacing the seals with the head on the block. that guy says that you need to pressurize the combustion chamber so that the valves dont drop down. I was asking on zilvia what sized tank for an air compressor I would need to do this job, and I got a reply that the sr20 is whats called an interference motor, as long as the cylinder that you are working on is at TDC, the valves cant drop down. so you can do 1 and 4 and then rotate the crank and do 2 and 3

 

[ou811]

omg....still cant get the keepers out. the metric sized tool seems too small!!

edit: just set up the return for my retarded tool and ordered the one that you linked monkichi

edit 2: gave it one last try before calling it........turns out i wasnt hitting them hard enough...lol. wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo doing work

edit 3: ohh boy, just dropped a keeper down an oil galley that i didnt even notice. i heard it fall quite a distance. took the oil pan off and didnt find it :\

 

[Monkichi57]

mg: Did you find that keeper? What did you end up doing?

 

[ou811]

havent found it yet. i had some liquid gasket on order anyways so it looks like ill be taking the upper oil pan off. just not too sure about rotating the engine over now with the head attached. will definitely need to bleed the lifters then..and i dont even know what else.

i tried using a can of air down the galley and nothing happened, also tried pouring oil down there to attempt to flush the keeper out, but it was nowhere to be found. it has to be in the upper oil pan probably stuck on the baffle plate. just sucks to finally be getting something done and now have to go back and take parts off

 

[ou811]

So you know how everything happens for a reason. Im starting to think that dropping this keeper has been a good thing. I now know in the future to block off all the oil galleys with some paper towel or something. I also have the more practical spring compressor tool now!

Another thing this disaster has given me is time to look at all of your build threads. While reading Monkichi's thread, I saw his issue with his oil strainer gasket. I looked at his new gasket and got thinking...that didnt come in my oem rebuild gasket kit. When I installed my pick-up, the FSM didnt mention any gasket so I just dabbed a little bit of the liquid gasket on there to be safe.

Well, now that I have to tear off the upper oil pan to find that valve keeper, I went ahead and ordered the correct new style gasket like the one Monkichi has. Im still waiting on my nissan liquid gasket to come in to re-seal the upper pan when Im done, but Im going to wait until I have replaced all of the valve stem seals before sealing it back on. I guess it's not the worst thing to happen!

 

[ou811]

So, I got all pumped up and ready to make some progress today. My oil strainer gasket is on its way to be delivered and the oem liquid gasket should be in any time now, so I decided to go looking for that keeper.

I popped off the baffle plate and had some good luck for the first time with this build, it was right there!!

So now Im feeling good, real good, and I start assembling the valve compressor tool.

One thing that I thought odd was that it came with 3 fat bolts, 3 skinny bolts, and then 6 bolts with no threads. I used one smooth bolt to attach the handle to the part that presses down on the retainer. But then Im wondering why there aren't 4 similar bolts to hold the two horse-shoe shaped pieces to where the cam caps attach?

I decided to try a cam cap bolt but, duh, its only got threads on half of the bolt. So I went to tighten down the 3 bolts that I had to see how secure it would be and go from there, thinking I might have to run up to lowes or home depot to grab another bolt.

Tightening, tightening, not a lot of torque just taking my time, and......one the bolt heads turns sideways. I immediately attempted to loosen it...


this is turning into a disaster

 

[Monkichi57]

Glad that the keeper was easy to find. Sucks for that bolt though.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[ou811]

yeah it sucks even more because i tried using a grab-it extractor, my hole got off center and i jacked up the entrance of the threads. looking like ill probably have to take the head to a machine shop to get the bolt removed, the hole re-tapped and an m6x1 helicoil installed or something. im like ready to explode at this point

 

[ou811]

my roommate and i tried removing the broken bolt a bit more. my grab-it hole was way off center so we used a standard drill bit and worked a new hole closer to the center. we then tried using a ryobi screw extractor which did not work. i went to the store and grabbed some reverse threaded drill bits and we tried two different sizes, neither of them wanted to bite the bolt and twist it out. we went to harbor freight and found a more aggressively shaped screw extractor, the taper was much more. this extractor finally grabbed onto the bolt and started moving it. the extractor got close to the edge of the cam cap hole to where it would have damaged it, so we gave it a little tap with a rubber mallet. the tap ended up breaking the extractor bit off into the bolt.

we tried using standard and reverse thread drill bits to get the extractor out to no avail. finally i bit the bullet and we pulled the head off, the one thing i had been trying to avoid this entire time. called up a local machine shop and they only charge $10 to remove a broken bolt, $20 because it has a broken extractor in it. they will also tap and re-thread for me free.

i dropped the head off this morning as soon as they opened, 9am, just got a call that they started working on it and i should be able to pick it up soon. when i got home i started working on rebuilding the turbo.

it took me about 2 hours to get a little clip, some people call it a piston ring, its basically a double looped metal o-ring, back in during the reassembly portion. this picture isnt mine, but its what the piece looks like with a screwdriver separating the loops:

it was insane! it acts as a retainer ontop of a washer that sits ontop of a bearing and you have to squeeze it into a little groove that it just doesnt want to go into. I finally popped that sucker in there and rejoiced for a few minutes. i should have the turbo completely rebuilt within the next hour.

as soon as i get the head back from the machine shop i will use my new grade 8 bolts for the valve tool and replace the remaining seals.

my lease is up in 2 months and my roommate doesnt want to stay in this location anymore, so we are going to hustle to get this thing wrapped up in order to move

 

[ou811]

delete

 

[ou811]

I believe I received a fake or incorrect gasket for my oil strainer; none of the holes line up. I bought it on ebay because it was going to be delivered sooner than FRSport. It listed the correct OEM serial number, but when it came it wasnt in a sealed bag and there was no nissan sticker with the serial. I just emailed the seller and went ahead and ordered one from FRSport.

I also had to order a new headgasket because the brand new one that I put on just lost a layer when I was taking it off

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[ou811]

3 days at the machine shop and they havent been able to extract the bolt due to the material that the broken extractor [stuck inside of it] is made out of. they called me yesterday asking about cutting the section out, removing the bolt, and welding it back on and I was like WHAT??? how is that even considered an option. he then asked me how hard it is to find a new head.

 

[ou811]

got the correct oil strainer/pickup gasket in today. 2 actually; 1 from frsport and 1 from the guy on ebay who sent me the correct one..

installed it, the pickup, baffle plate, and screwed my greddy pan on temporarily for looks...then flipped the motor back over.

also got the new oem headgasket but im waiting to put it on until i get the head back from the machine shop, who i havent heard from..