you built a motor and you're not running an air filter?

 

taking the fan off give you 20hp ?! Try like 1-2 hp, max. umm... be happy if you make 135 rwhp. As far as I know, the KA24DE puts ~120-125 hp to the wheels.
I have an AEM intake, Apexi World Sport (80mm) exhaust, fan delete, unorthodox pulley, and i got 155hp on the dyno. Also, running no exhaust probably takes HP away (or atleast thats what it felt like to me when I didnt have my cat/catback hooked up). Also, you are not running an air filter?!? You car probably wont even make it to the dyno before it dies

 

Yeah, no filter, there aint no dust in my part of tennessee. I'll probably be running a ram air system in a few days. And its not a daily driver. Its gonna just be track/show. I'm trying to get everything out of it possible without turbo, i've blown too many engines wanting to turn my boost up. I blew a gm 2.8 v6 daily driving on 20lbs of boost. It lasted 2 months. Traded my turbokit for my s13. lol Anyways, working on the cars performance, then body later.

how much power from a port and polish job on a KA? that is the main question. or port and polish with all this stuff.

My port and polish job is gonna make as much or more power than your aem intake and apexi cat-back exhaust man. A portmatched exhaust is usually as good or better than a header, i dont know on this car, so. What does this mod list above tell you I should be getting.

Sorry, did not mean to sound like an ass, but you bakgwailo sounded that way to me.

This is the way i figure...Little shit adds up. I do port and polish jobs for 600 bucks. I'll try to post a timeslip after i get it to the track. But can someone please tell me how much power i should get. Here is the mods list condensed...

fan removed, a/c removed, filter box removed, ngk iridium plugs, open exhaust(can always bolt system back on if costs power), egr block off, port and polished head, port matched intake manifold, port matched exhaust manifold.

 

did you yourself do the port and polish or have a shop do it?

 

so did u gasket match it and shave down all the imperfection. or wat? and i would go back and tighten ur main cap cradel down a little more. ur not gonna gain hp from doing that. if ur crank doesnt spin freely torqued all the way down then u have problems.

 

Yeah, I did it myself. All the port and polish work. The main cap, and rod caps, i torqued all that to acceptable spec according to the book, just the lowest acceptable spec maybe a couple foot pounds over for good measure.lol. Yeah, i gasket matched it. And shaved down every imperfection i could find. I did a good job on it, i wish i would have taken pictures. I opened the intake and heads and exhaust up probably 3/16 of an inch. I cant really remember exactly how much because its been about 2 weeks ago since i done that.

 

go on ka-t org. Some guy has the flow charts posted up

 

Thanks Man! But I cannot find the thread. And i'm still curious cause i have yet to let it off the jackstands or pull it out of the garage, i have heard it run though, and it sounds nice.

 

nevermind it was for the single cam ka24e

 

Well, thanks anyway.lol.

 

Torquing parts down to the lowest spec possible isn't going to free up the rotation of the parts. Rotational mass is what frees up the rotational speed of an object. In parts like these if you had friction it's what causes things like rod bearings to spin.
Keep in mind as well that as parts continually are used, they will lose some of their "clamped torque" (in terms of how tight the bolts are on), this is why you have to re torque head bolts after 500 miles for instance. It's disinformation to think it's actually going to create extra power or more free power by torquing to the lowest spec possible, it's also a bit dangerous in that respect.
In respect to losing power from having no exhaust? No you wont. It'll just make for one annoying ass car.

 

In respect to losing power from having no exhaust? No you wont. It'll just make for one annoying ass car.

with no back pressure won't you lose power?

 

No one is going to be able to tell you what your RWHP is going to be. Put it on the dyno and find out that way. There are way to many modifiers when calculating HP to just 'Guess'

 

Thanks guys, but the question is...Generally how much power from a port and polished head on a 240sx? that's all i really wanna know.

And if torquing to lowest spec does not free up the bottom ends ability to spin and possibly, possibly free up horsepower how come 2 of the same motors side by side created the same day, the exact same engine can vary by as much as 20% in horsepower?
My Theorey, a slighty loose assembled bottom end = more power, less engine life
Tightly assembled engine= more engine life, less power

By the way, i do not recommend under torquing anything. Never under torque head bolts especially, get them as tight as you can within spec. Always torque within acceptable range. With that said, if you wanna torque the bottom end to the lowest spec on a build and see if it does gain any power over stock don't do any mods on your car, get it dynoed stock + loose build so you can see if it makes a difference at all. This is all my theory and things i have been doing for a while, my engines never gave me problems running like this. If you dyno your car with my idea and you come out with anything significantly higher that 125 hp at the wheels then you know you have confirmed my estimations. If not, then thats the stupidest shit you could ever do to a engine, but you don't know unless you dyno.

 

just when the engine is stock, dont expect much gains.

 

open header = sacrifice of a bit of torque, but a bit more top end horsepower.

What do you mean by not much gains?if you mean on the loose bottom end i'd be very happy with 5 more hp from that. if meaning on the port and polish... in the nighboorhood of 5-10? 10-20? 20-30? We gained around 50(don't remember exactly how much and we had to do it the old fashioned way, horsepower calculator.lol. using track times.) on a honda civic from a port and polish, but it had i/h/e and msd ignition system, high compression je pistons, head shave 0.014, maxed out fuel system, Comp Cams. Pretty much the only thing that was keeping it from being a maxed N/A engine was the head needing us to port and polish it. and it came alive.

but a civic is like a cheap fwd 240 wanna be so...

 

This is a KA we are talking about. NOT A HONDA.
Open header will not yeild you more than a fraction of a donkey while killing your torque which is all the KA has going for it.

Doing N/A on a KA before it gets waaayy too pricey max 165whp. If i recall correctly some dude on NICO got 200 crank before doing any internals, and he had all the bolt ons, drivetrain mods, ignition, and tune. With internals, i'd say 180whp is not too hard to imagine. This is that you take in the fact that not all dynos read the same hp output.

 

P&P=port and polish

I'll repeat myself...NOT A DAILY DRIVER. This is most likely a track car when i finally back it out of the garage. If it ran better with the exhaust hooked up i'll simply bolt it back up.
I am still waiting on somebody thats done a p&p job on a KA24DE to tell me what their port and polish gave them. Thats the whole reason i mentioned a honda ******. Just mentioning the gain we saw from a port & polish. I think that a port and polish on this engines head and manifolds will show significant gains.

 

Well stated man.

 

Dark-Hawk- no back pressure kills torque. its a proven fact. go rip ur exhuast off and see how much less torque u have.

also for n/a purposes 2.5" exhuast has been proven to see better torque and h/p numbers. but for turbo a 3inch is better due to more flow which would put the back pressure around the same as a 2.5" n/a.

loss in back pressure=loss in torque=fact

 

motors technically dont need backpressure. they need velocity. but to have a nice velocity you need a certain amount of backpressure to keep the flow even and create a "vacuum" effect. no backpressure = bad pulses/waves = turbulence = more backpressure. haha, get it?

this is true in exhausts, good tuned exhaust systems help usher out the used air from the motor, promoting good flow. this is also true in intake manifolds. the manifold runners are "tuned" to the proper I.D. and length to create good pulses so the backwave created by the intake valve closing ends up slingshotting back towards the combustion chamber when the valve opens.

So due to the crappy design of the stock exhaust manifold, you may be losing power due to the bad pulses and INCREASE of backpressure...


Now about the power. ******, 200CHP can be hit on a clean KA with pulley, tune, and full exhaust for $800. That's all he did. As for how much your port and polish added? not much, the head is not the power limiter in the KA, the stock manifolds are. and you increased the ports by 3/16ths? all around or total side to side?

 

all the way around in the head, both the upper and lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold

 

i would venture to say from what I've seen thats way to large, especially for an N/A motor. for one it's useless with stock manifolds, you ported them larger at the openings but it just get's smaller on the rest of the manifold. and 3/16th's around the whole port? so total width and height of the port were increased by 3/8th's? way to big IMO, you'll be losing velocity.