14 at idle isn't bad. 40 at startup is low though. What about at specific rpms? How was the engine broken in? Was oil changed when it was supposed to be as it was broken in? More details please


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I started with 5w 30 and changed it at about 450 miles because i kept hearing that noise and wondered if an oil change would fix it right now im going to change it to 10w 40 to see if it makes a difference it has about 700 miles on it now

 

i just changed the oil but it didnt do anything, would it be my oil filter? i have a bosch oil filter, does it make a difference if i have an OE filter?

 

The ticking noise doesnt stop the whole time im driving the car, the only time that it doesnt do it is when its cold but once it heats up the ticking noise starts

 

5w-30 what? Details about the oil. And it should've been changed more than that.
You need to post a video. A tick to you could be a knock to someone else.

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i put valvoline max life high mileage synthetic 5w-30 but i already took it to the shop where they rebuilt the engine so hopefully the can find out whats wrong and fix it. And its definitely a tick, it's coming from the front/ top of the motor and it isnt the same speed, if you rev it, it gets faster and louder but sometimes gets lower at certain revolutions

 

That's where you fucked up. No synthetic for first 1500 miles.


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really? see no one told me that and i didnt know. is there any way i can fix that? well hopefully the mechanic fixes it but if he doesnt is there any way i could?

 

Running synthetic won't damage or destroy your engine, but it may have an affect on ring break-in. Did you build the engine yourself?

If so, are you absolutely sure you have the correct seals in the timing cover and the rubber o-ring that's on the pick-up tube?

 

He said he took it to a shop for rebuild. But he waited 450 miles to change the oil.


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yea i took it to a shop, so there isnt a way i could fix it? do i just change the oil or what?

 

There might be metal clogging up stuff already by now.


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well how could i fix it?

 

It could be a few things man. Metal clogging shit up, the shop didn't do it correctly. Break in was done wrong.... Only way to find out is open her up


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Alright, hopefully nothing too serious is wrong, but they don't work Sundays so i won't have an answer until Monday

 

so they told me yesterday that it was the timing chain and tensioner so he told me that we should change everything so hes going to pay for the parts and im going to pay for someone to change the parts because i dont have the time to do it myself. so after i get my car back what type of oil should i be running in it and for how long?

 

WTF? YOU shouldn't be paying for anything. You PAYED them for a rebuild. If they seriously reused the tensioner that's bullshit


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i put the engine in and my warranty was supposed to be up but he made an exception and hes paying for half of the bill for whoevers going to change all the stuff. i honestly don't know if they reused it

 

so now theyre telling me that its in the piston and it could be that rhe machine shop put it together wrong. i took it to another guy. so now im going to take it apart and going to see whats up with the piston and everything.

 

Wow man, sounds like the engine builder needs to use the FSM more often, lol.

When you rebuilt a motor you should never have "metal shavings" in the oil, that's what the assembly lube and oil filter is for. You should always replace the oil and filter after the first break-in run, especially if your using a heavy (or thick) assembly lube. Assembly lube will block your oil filter up pretty quick.

I'm not sure what "In the piston" actually means, but something is clearly not right. Just out of curiosity, was the rebuilt engine a 240sx KA-E or a truck KA-E?

 

this is for a 90 240sx i meant the cylinder haha they most likely didnt put it together right this other guy said it might be that the piston pin is loose and can be causing the ticking because the ticking is coming from the 3rd cylinder they showed us with a stethoscope to hear they noise and it wasnt coming from the front or top and they noise was they loudest next to the 3rd cylinder.

 

It could be a lot of things really. It could be a worn rod bushing or maybe something as simple as an incorrectly installed (or broken) C clip retainer on the wrist pin. No real way of knowing until it's torn down unfortunately.

Has anyone done a compression test and/or leak-down test at all?

 

yea it really sucks. No no one has done that, would that be something that makes it tick? because the car works great, i love it, its my first car haha but yea whenever i drive it everything is fine the only thing is the ticking noise

 

so i got my motor back yesterday and it ended up being the piston pin, three of them "slipped out" i think they were put on wrong or something. they scratched the cylinder walls so he made the cylinder bigger and put bigger poisons. will this affect it if i want to turbo it? its almost ready to go back in, I'm pretty stoked!

 

Well, the original builder either forgot the C clips or used the wrong pistons.

- Truck KA-E's use press-fit piston pins and no rod bushings. They also use main bearing caps instead of the 240sx KA-E's that use a main girdle.

- 240sx KA-E's use full floating piston pins with C clip retainers and rod bushings.

How much bigger are the cylinders, and why type of pistons are in now? Pressed or floating?