Hi, this is my first guide on here so please give constructive criticism only. I decided to go ahead and
upgrade my S 13's stock coil to an MSD coil when I replaced my distributor. If you find anything I
have done/explained in this guide to be incorrect then please let me know and I will update the guide.
In the process of installing the new Coil I decided to move the coil to a more secure location.
I removed the EGR in the process and found the empty space ideal for mounting the new Coil.
Picture links have now been updated to imbedded images
Install Notes:
I bought the MSD Blaster PN 8202 and Wells Ballast Resistor Model AL975
The pictures in this guide can also be found at my website:
http://www.zeroproof.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=12
Time to Kick it off:
Here's a picture of the stock Coil:
You'll need to unbolt the two bolts that hold the mounting plate to the fender.
![Image]()
Now, Unplug the Connectors and remove the coil itself from the mounting plate. The Coil will be shock-mounted so make sure to remove the rubber grommets from the plate because we will be mounting the bottom plate back to the fender. We still need it because of the power transistor and to mount our Ballast resistor.
![Image]()
Next step is to remove the EGR assembly. I decided to do this because I now have an aftermarket intake and I had the EGR output plugged up anyway. Removing it will give you a more secure place to mount the new MSD Coil and it will clean up the engine bay a bit. There are three (3) bolts that hold the EGR assembly onto the fender. It is also connected to the exhaust manifold via a flexible hose. Additionally you'll need to remove the two vacume lines and the electrical harness from the EGR Connector. These will all be at the bottom of the assembly.
![Image]()
Once the EGR assembly is removed you should have something that looks like this:
![Image]()
You'll need to stop up that Pipe coming from the Exhaust Manifold. I useda cork in the end of the hose that came OUT of the EGR originally.
![Image]()
Now I just moved the short hose with the cork down to the metal pipe. This hose is slightly larger but will tighten up around the pipe just fine. An alternate would be to remove the metal EGR pipe and buy a plate to cover the hole in the Manifold. They go for about 12 bucks on eBay. It looks like a pain though.
![Image]()
In order to remove the EGR Assembly I had to cut the vacume line that plugged into the bottom of the support frame. It is the line with silver stripes:
![Image]()
You'll want to pull the small vaccume lines out of the bay now that they aren't needed. They go all the way around across the front of the car over the radiator. Now you can disconect the doo-hickey that's got the harness conected to it and remove it so that you can pull the vaccume line:
![Image]()
Follow the small hoses over to the passenger side just underneath the intake pipe:
![Image]()
Here's a close up look at the ends of the two hoses. You'll want to unplug them from the splice/T-Joint and plug it back up with a vaccume plug or something similar. I used some heatshrink and pinched the end flat while it was still hot. I'll go get some rubber caps later.
![Image]()
Now on to the Wiring:
I consulted a few people here on the forums as well as MSD Tech support regarding the use/need for a "Ballast Resistor" From what I can gather, the ballast resistor simply limits the amount of current that the coil can draw therefor protecting the coil from exploding... um.. basically.
I ended up buying the MSD Coil with the PN 8202 which meant that I did not get a ballast resistor in the package. MSD offers a version of the same Blaster 2 Coil that comes with the Ballast Resistor (PN 8203) I wasn't sure if I needed a Ballast Resistor so I asked around. Some people here of the forums have told me that they have had no problems using the Blaster2 Coil without a Ballast resistor. I consulted MSD about this and they said that I did in fact need the resistor. Unfortunately I didn't have one so I drove down to my local Part store (AutoZone) and asked for one. They had no clue so I told them to find one for a '57 Chevy Corvette (Thank goodness for Google). They found it and it was the only one they had. (Wells AL795). It measured out to be 6.8 Ohms. This was less than the MSD part (8 Ohms) but the MSD Tech told me that my resistor would be fine.
Here's the Ballast Resistor:
![Image]()
Now, mount the resistor to the Power Transitor's plate by using the original bolts. The bolt on the right will require an additional washer to compensate for the thickness of the second plate that was removed with the original coil. If you do not put a washer on the bolt will not tighten up completely.
![Image]()
Lets go ahead and mount the MSD Coil to the fender. We'll be using one of the long bolts we removed when we took the EGR assembly off as well as one of the rubber shockmounts.
First, you'll have to take the bolt that's holding the ground cable down off.
![Image]()
Sandwich the ground cable between the Coil Bracket and the fender. Now you'l need to install the second bolt. This is the longer bolt I talked about. You'll need to cut one of the shockmounts in half and use the end with the washer attached to it. I had to do this because I didn't have any shorter bolts with the right thread. the original bolts have long shanks that require you to use a spacer of some sort to tighten the bracket down. So I did this:
![Image]()
Work with what ya got eh'?
Here's a view from the side after It's bolted down tight. There's not much room between the Coil and the Master Cylinder but it's enough. Just make sure that you adjust the coill to be as far down and away from the Master Cylinder as possible. You may even have to modify your bracket.
![Image]()
Now let's finish up that wiring:
Take a look at the Coil harness. You'll see three connectors on the cable. Left to right they are: Power Transistor, Ground, Coil input Power.
![Image]()
You'll need to chop off the Coil input Power connector so you can install new and longer wires. The following diagram should explain where things go:
![Image]()
^Modified MSD Factory Manual Illustration^
This image is from the FSM of an S14. It should further clarify the polarity of the colored wires that power the coil. I think a few people here have it backwards.
![Image]()
Pictures of Completed wiring:
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Hopefully this Guide Helps Those wanting to do the same to their cars. Again, if anyone has a problem with anything that I've discussed/explained here please let me know and I'll update the guide accordingly. I can say that my car runs better than it did and that my coil has not gone bad. I guess that those people wiring their coils backwards and without ballast resistors are simply lucky...
Cheers!
-SwatKAt
upgrade my S 13's stock coil to an MSD coil when I replaced my distributor. If you find anything I
have done/explained in this guide to be incorrect then please let me know and I will update the guide.
In the process of installing the new Coil I decided to move the coil to a more secure location.
I removed the EGR in the process and found the empty space ideal for mounting the new Coil.
Picture links have now been updated to imbedded images
Install Notes:
I bought the MSD Blaster PN 8202 and Wells Ballast Resistor Model AL975
The pictures in this guide can also be found at my website:
http://www.zeroproof.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=12
Time to Kick it off:
Here's a picture of the stock Coil:
You'll need to unbolt the two bolts that hold the mounting plate to the fender.
Now, Unplug the Connectors and remove the coil itself from the mounting plate. The Coil will be shock-mounted so make sure to remove the rubber grommets from the plate because we will be mounting the bottom plate back to the fender. We still need it because of the power transistor and to mount our Ballast resistor.
Next step is to remove the EGR assembly. I decided to do this because I now have an aftermarket intake and I had the EGR output plugged up anyway. Removing it will give you a more secure place to mount the new MSD Coil and it will clean up the engine bay a bit. There are three (3) bolts that hold the EGR assembly onto the fender. It is also connected to the exhaust manifold via a flexible hose. Additionally you'll need to remove the two vacume lines and the electrical harness from the EGR Connector. These will all be at the bottom of the assembly.
Once the EGR assembly is removed you should have something that looks like this:
You'll need to stop up that Pipe coming from the Exhaust Manifold. I useda cork in the end of the hose that came OUT of the EGR originally.
Now I just moved the short hose with the cork down to the metal pipe. This hose is slightly larger but will tighten up around the pipe just fine. An alternate would be to remove the metal EGR pipe and buy a plate to cover the hole in the Manifold. They go for about 12 bucks on eBay. It looks like a pain though.
In order to remove the EGR Assembly I had to cut the vacume line that plugged into the bottom of the support frame. It is the line with silver stripes:
You'll want to pull the small vaccume lines out of the bay now that they aren't needed. They go all the way around across the front of the car over the radiator. Now you can disconect the doo-hickey that's got the harness conected to it and remove it so that you can pull the vaccume line:
Follow the small hoses over to the passenger side just underneath the intake pipe:
Here's a close up look at the ends of the two hoses. You'll want to unplug them from the splice/T-Joint and plug it back up with a vaccume plug or something similar. I used some heatshrink and pinched the end flat while it was still hot. I'll go get some rubber caps later.
Now on to the Wiring:
I consulted a few people here on the forums as well as MSD Tech support regarding the use/need for a "Ballast Resistor" From what I can gather, the ballast resistor simply limits the amount of current that the coil can draw therefor protecting the coil from exploding... um.. basically.
I ended up buying the MSD Coil with the PN 8202 which meant that I did not get a ballast resistor in the package. MSD offers a version of the same Blaster 2 Coil that comes with the Ballast Resistor (PN 8203) I wasn't sure if I needed a Ballast Resistor so I asked around. Some people here of the forums have told me that they have had no problems using the Blaster2 Coil without a Ballast resistor. I consulted MSD about this and they said that I did in fact need the resistor. Unfortunately I didn't have one so I drove down to my local Part store (AutoZone) and asked for one. They had no clue so I told them to find one for a '57 Chevy Corvette (Thank goodness for Google). They found it and it was the only one they had. (Wells AL795). It measured out to be 6.8 Ohms. This was less than the MSD part (8 Ohms) but the MSD Tech told me that my resistor would be fine.
Here's the Ballast Resistor:
Now, mount the resistor to the Power Transitor's plate by using the original bolts. The bolt on the right will require an additional washer to compensate for the thickness of the second plate that was removed with the original coil. If you do not put a washer on the bolt will not tighten up completely.
Lets go ahead and mount the MSD Coil to the fender. We'll be using one of the long bolts we removed when we took the EGR assembly off as well as one of the rubber shockmounts.
First, you'll have to take the bolt that's holding the ground cable down off.
Sandwich the ground cable between the Coil Bracket and the fender. Now you'l need to install the second bolt. This is the longer bolt I talked about. You'll need to cut one of the shockmounts in half and use the end with the washer attached to it. I had to do this because I didn't have any shorter bolts with the right thread. the original bolts have long shanks that require you to use a spacer of some sort to tighten the bracket down. So I did this:
Work with what ya got eh'?
Here's a view from the side after It's bolted down tight. There's not much room between the Coil and the Master Cylinder but it's enough. Just make sure that you adjust the coill to be as far down and away from the Master Cylinder as possible. You may even have to modify your bracket.
Now let's finish up that wiring:
Take a look at the Coil harness. You'll see three connectors on the cable. Left to right they are: Power Transistor, Ground, Coil input Power.
You'll need to chop off the Coil input Power connector so you can install new and longer wires. The following diagram should explain where things go:
^Modified MSD Factory Manual Illustration^
This image is from the FSM of an S14. It should further clarify the polarity of the colored wires that power the coil. I think a few people here have it backwards.
Pictures of Completed wiring:
Hopefully this Guide Helps Those wanting to do the same to their cars. Again, if anyone has a problem with anything that I've discussed/explained here please let me know and I'll update the guide accordingly. I can say that my car runs better than it did and that my coil has not gone bad. I guess that those people wiring their coils backwards and without ballast resistors are simply lucky...
Cheers!
-SwatKAt
