First of all, when you go behind the dash, the wire gets really crazy. If you have a friend who works at a car shop, have them get you a print out of the wiring diagram for your car. I believe they should have access to AllData.

The decision of how you want to go about getting rid of the wires is really up to you. When you get a wiring diagram to show where all the different wires go, then you should be able to make a definite decision.

All I have to say for you is that, wiring is going to take a lot of time. I had to redo some of the wiring for my 240 as well and it took a long time.

Good luck with your's!

 

i have all the wiring diagrams for my car and i understand it all.

im not redoing my wiring, im taking it out. i guess i'll just go cutting wires that i do not use.

 

i know i can cut the wire loom so i can expose the wires and trace the wire backs to its location so i can cut it. but should i cut it all the way to the harness? or should i follow the harness, past the harness connector and see where it goes, and the cut it out from there? should i also take out the dash to make it easier to trace wires back?

To make things a little cleaner, you can de-pin the wires instead of just cutting them. Unlock the connector by pulling the two tabs away and use a precision flat head to pop the wire out. This can be good for the EFI harness when removing emissions. DO NOT DO THE BODY HARNESS unless you have a obscene amount of time and patience. It's not going to save you anything really. Just go with a painless wiring kit if you're pretty adamant about this.

 

i've already re-did the eccs wiring diagram in order to use a consult board.

i think im just giong to cut the wiring loom so i can expose the wires and seperate it from each other. then i'll follow the wiring harness connector that isn't used up and find out where it connects. i will then follow that wiring harness connector and see where that goes (most likely to a fuse or relay of some sort). the furthest i'll cut will be up to that fuse or relay or possibly another module.

i do have all the time and patience since its not daily driven at all. i just gotta clean out the 240 before i do this.

 

i rewired my whole chasis harness. I run everything off a single switch board with 7 switches.

switches are
1 start
2 ign
3 fans
4 headlights highbeam and low beam
5 turn signals
6 acc
7 tail lights and brake lights (smart to shut them off for late night drifting in parking lots with cameras)

Only do this if you are a complete baller and have lots of time on your hands if its your first time.

I can do one in a weekend if i want to now.

Get diagrams, get red bull, and dont give up.

and if you have more specific questions post em up, i probably have an answer.

 

a switch board would def. be ultra ballin! but that will take a bunch of work. i know i can do it since i can read wiring diagrams pretty well. but i dont need such a complicated set-up. i'll probably think about this in the future. thanks man. do you happen to have pictures of your board? hook it up mang ^^.

 

yeah its just a painless board hang on a sec i will find it, the car is very similar to the way it looks in the picture the way it sits now.

we are just putting a cage in it now, omg its the hotness i will post pics of the cage when done too.

 

ballin

the drift car, built by me i did all kinds of stuff to it lately, which will remain top secret until i post pics of everything when done lol.

 

 

Are cars are kinda close. Same kit, both coupes, and I have the same ebrake.
Sorry shity cell phone pic

 

yea for sures! im giong to start today with the automatic seatbelt harness!

 

hey stinky

It may be worth it just to ditch the auto seatbelts and get some harness's bro. If your going to keep all your factory stuff rewiring may not be right for your situation.

Tom now that i read your post fully lol, i can see that your car is pretty much like mine as far as being a track/weekend car. Go all out bro its worth it, so much more simple. You wont have all the bell's and wistles like auto seat belts and stuff, but the factory wiring does wiegh a ton when you take it all out, i didnt wiegh mine, i guess i still could i have it laying around here.

Anyone have specific questions ask away though, rewiring is just a little tooo broad of a topic to dicuss thoroughly in 1 post.

 

Tom now that i read your post fully lol, i can see that your car is pretty much like mine as far as being a track/weekend car. Go all out bro its worth it, so much more simple. You wont have all the bell's and wistles like auto seat belts and stuff, but the factory wiring does wiegh a ton when you take it all out, i didnt wiegh mine, i guess i still could i have it laying around here.

I should be getting alot of the stuff this week to begin my wiring on my car.
I just need to take note of every thing that i want to continue using so i know what i will need to mantain it.

Also location of where i am going to put it all

We might start wiring the stand alone around the same time too, so its going to be a wiring hell.. haha

Jap - did you get my other PM's i sent you?

 

i've already ditched the auto-seatbelts and installed manual seatbelts. there is no way i will get a harness without a harness bar! im not re-wiring, im removing it all since i've converted my car to manual doors, crank window, manual mirrors, locks, seatbelts. since i have no use for the left over wires, i feel that i should remove them since they aren't being used. plus i'll probably shave 1lb (if that) by removing the unnecessary wires. it'll also make the interior a lot more cleaner with less wiring, and wiring re-routed for a more stealthier look (car is currently stripped).

 

oh ok sweet i see what your going for now, and yeah i ran harness's with out a harness bar but its because im crazy.

lol my cage is almost done though now, omg i want to paint the cage and the inside of the car bad. Then go do 3rd gear sideways burnouts or somthing along those lines

 

you better not get hit or crash somebody, your going to fuck up your back and mess up your life. spinal compression for the lose! after cleaning up the interior/chassis harness, i plan on removing the sound deadening and cleaning the interior chassis nicely, then spraying it with black. but for some reason, i think black would be a bad choice mainly because it'll absorb heat and may cause fatigue while racing.

 

yeah lol i know all about the harness situation, they arent like that anymore with the cage in it, its almost done i will probably finish it all up this week and post a couple pics.


all the new upgrades are these
-full cage (will pass nopi drift, formula d, d1 blah blah blah)
-kirkey racing bucket seat
-6 point harness
-z32 brake upgrade (its about damn time)
-2:1 steering quickener
-tien tie rods
-peak performances ruca's

 

You're going to get a lot more heat from the drivetrain and exhaust because you took out the insulation, than you could ever get from painting the car black. I ruined the heel in several right shoes from heat in my track only car until I wrapped the exhaust and reinstalled some insulation on the left side of the trans hump.

 

yea i understand about the heat issue. on my first 240sx, i removed it all and i def did notice the interior hotter, especially under the driver's seat where the cat is. but i solved the problem by just using stock floor mats on both driver and passenger side, front and back.

i also saw someone here using griptape, that seems feasible but may be too much grip for my taste. i'll def. be using stock floor mats again. as far as the painting it black, would that cause even more heat, would you say?

 

i beat the hell out of my car and my floor gets hot but never where i melt shoes or cant take it, if it does get that hot i would just get some type of heat shielding and put it on the underside of the car above the exhaust.

-yeah tom PM's sent i just looked today

tom ur gonna have fun and your gonna like it when its done trust me.
very cool mod lol

 

hey japside4life, do you happen to have a wiring diagram for your rig? im curious on how you did it. although, i probably wont be doing it, im interested on how you went about doing it.

 

well i didnt really make a wiring diagram i might draw one up in paint or somting for the switch board and relays with battery and cut off. Here is what i basically did

Battery(alternator power goes directly to battery post, and of course a hot wire going to your starter for the battery terminal).

Run a hot wire from the battery post now to a battery cut off switch, now the next part you can do a couple diffrent ways, best and cleanest way I would recomend is run a heavy gauge wire from the battery switch to your fuse box and relays to power them up, just splice your individual wires into the heavy gauge wire.

As for your relay grounds, i made multiple different grounding locations just to make the grounding circuit better, some relays like your fuel pump actually ground to the ecu so remember to have a fsm with diagrams just to double check your work.

Ok now you have power going to your relays and switch panel i will give you a quick run down of how i set my car up now (of course other peoples needs for thier cars may be different, my car is pretty much just a track car, but it does see the occasional late night street drift or it is taken out to play on the weekends).

Switch #1-This is your starter button, a starter button can be found at autozone, you just need 12v B+ power ran to it, then when the switch is activated 12v goes to two wires that you need to add to the switch, with this switch you are powering up the starter solenoid wire, and the start signal for the ecu (i think its the orange wire in the white connecter that goes to the ecu its been a while since i did my rewiring so that color may or may not be correct).

Switch #2 (ign switch) This is just an on/off toggle switch i used a pretty heavy duty switch and wire for this ign switch because i power up two relays with it, my ign switch powers up the ecu relay, and the fuel pump relay, refer to your fsm on what wires to give power to get your ecu to turn on as well as your fuel pump. I believe the s13 sr20det i used the black/white wire for ign power, there is an ecu back up power wire also i think its red, this also needs to be wired in (eventhough its "back up power" the car will not start with out this wired up).

Switch #3 Electric fans--- i just used an on/off toggle again and a relay to activate the fans, yeah they run all the time, no its not a problem. Yes you could wire them to a temp control also, i didnt do this because a temp control is just one more thing to fail to cause your engine to go..... Also my car gets the shit kick out of it everytime i drive it so it never gets "too cool".

Switch#4 turn signals---yeah im crazy turn signals on a switch panel---- Use an on/off/on toggle switch for this and use the factory flasher relay it will make your life much easier. Just copy the diagram from the fsm and you will be golden.

Switch#5-- headlights---highbeam and lowbeam--- yeah you guessed it, once again use a 3 way toggle switch for this also on/off/on. You will also need a Diode (for the brain dead its a one way electrical check valve which means current will only flow one way). This allows the highbeam and low beam. i have it set up when i turn my switch to high beams current flows through the wire connected to the high beam contact of the switch to the high beams, then it flows through the diode (which is connected to both the high beam and low beam contacts of the switch) to activate the low beams. This means you have uber awesomer night vision. Once again run the wires like stock its not hard, if you have headlight motors they can be made to work kind of a pita, i have a silvia front end though so im a slacker, err i mean i rock.

switch#6 taillights and brake lights---w00t its awesome to be able to shut them off seperate from the headlights for mad t1ght n1ght1m3 jdm dorifto. Ok power goes through the switch, then run two wires from the switch, one to your brake on/off switch and run one to your tail light power wire= finished product super awesomer.

switch #7 Acc- i run gauges off this its cool, your gauges come with wiring diagrams sweet!

Switch #8 I dont have anything hooked up to my 8th switch lol, but you may choose the option for wipers or even do a 9th switch and have wipers and your blower motor.

Anti theft for your car, you could go about this a few ways, get one of those nifty keys and cylinders from jegs, you could get a removable steering wheel, you could pull a fuse that you have hidden. The possibilities are endless to keep the ninjas from stealing your stuff.

-i know reading this can be hard to understand, especially with me behind the keyboard, if anyone has questions post away and i will try to explain them better.

even questions about stealing ninjas

 

DUDE... You are the Wire Guru !!!!

This is also very helpful !!!
I am making sure i keep all these notes, so i can referance them.

I am going to start going over my FSM, to get an idea of a couple things.
And also see how to take the dash off and shit.

I also need to think where i am going to put my new fuse box and relays

 

you can attach your fuse and relay boxes to that under dash cross support it works good.

Oh yeah here

SR Harness Wire Color
Use
KA Harness Plug Wire Color

Black / Pink stripe
Fuel Pump Relay
Black / Pink stripe

Green / Orange stripe
Transmission Neutral Sensor
Green / Orange stripe

Red / Black stripe

*NOTE: Red fades - do not confuse this wire with Fuel Pump wire
ECU Relay
Red / Black stripe

Green / Yellow stripe
AC Relay
Green / Yellow stripe

Red
ECU Backup Power
Red

Black / Red stripe (THICK wire)

Blue / Red stripe (THICK wire)

Brown (to O2 sensor)

*NOTE: Connect these 2 THICK wires and 1 THIN Brown wire to 1 THICK wire on KA plug side

*NOTE: There may be a THIN Blue / Red wire - this is not used
Main Ignition Power

O2 Sensor Power
Black / Red stripe (THICK wire)

Black / White stripe
ECU Power
Black / White stripe

Blue / Green stripe
AC Relay
Blue / Green stripe

Black / Yellow stripe
Idle Air Control Valve Power
Black / Yellow stripe

this info was hi jacked from heavythrottle if you dont have a fsm handy

this is for SR's, tom you have a rb25 i think, but since you did the swap and probably the wiring for the swap it is basically needing the same things powered up, wire colors just may be different

 

this is for SR's, tom you have a rb25 i think, but since you did the swap and probably the wiring for the swap it is basically needing the same things powered up, wire colors just may be different

Yea the wiring is done already but the stand alone gets installed this week.

So i dont even have to worry about it.

My WHOLE car is going to be re wired... so there wont be any of the start harrness/fuse boxes

I even decided to go with after market gauges for my cluster...

 

wow, im going to read this over and make a sketch of what is going. thanks a bunch for this great info!!!

but... i wanna jack a ninja, hows you do that? ^^

 

thats gonna be baller

 

Where do you recommand i get stuff..

Like the wires...

Ill probally be going with like a painless fuse box set and/or relay set.
but what about bulk wires... etc..

 

hmm, not sure abotu the fuse box, relay stuff.... butt for the wiring, you can get wires from radio shack, home depot, lowes. it'll also be better to get color coded wires so that you can make your own wiring diagram for future reference.

 

Yea thats what i was thinking.. but i was wondering were i could by different gauge wires in bulk..

I might talk to sr20goofus, i remember him buying bulk wire when he did his chassis harrness...

The fuse/relay box i think i might go with the painless stuff

Switch board i might put togetter..

 

Here is sr20goofus thread on F/A, he had one on 240sxforums but that was around the time the forum was down.. so the thread was lost

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=159694

I am going to read thru his thread again..

 

dude its because we're gangsters

yeah get wires from where ever bro, radio shack, local audio shops if you have buddies that work thier, autozone anywhere.

i used my stock fuse and relay boxes and tucked em under the dash

 

i found a very great thread regarding simplying the wiring harness.

http://nissanpacific.com/forumz/index.php?showtopic=1292

i kinda feel more confident now and might go all out!!!! its all a d.i.y job and may cost very little money. it'll def take a lot of time but with a lot of labeling, wiring diagrams, and organizing, you can save youself a lot of weight and have a cleaner looking car!

 

Pretty cool find, i should be getting started on mine this weekend.

Well at least ripping every thing out..
Then ill wait for the supplies to come
Then i go wild with the wiring.. haha

so stinky_180, do you know if you are going to go all out (like i am)
or just trim what you already have (like u wanted to do?)