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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first time doing a turbo build, and the car is my daily. So far its been a 4 month process, and I'm currently putting everything back together and trying to correct the damage done by a shop that really had no idea how to do a turbo setup on a KA, and frankly no business doing most of what they did. More on that dumb ass and his shop later... who knows I might find more things he did wrong. Most of this is just copied from my build thread on another forum. Hopefully its entertaining / helpfull to people out there doing the same shit.

And yes, I did promise strippers, blow, and slow cars street racing in another thread if this one gets sufficently awesome. So make it happen!

Car: '95 se

Setup breakdown:
Subaru 550cc side feeds (swapping clips was more of a PITA than I'd expected)
Walbro 255
Turbonetics Ball bearing T04B, .48 a/r
Turbonetics BOV, & WG
Modified Ebay S14 SR intercooler + charge piping kit
Ebay CXRacing Manifold
Custom DP
Custom exhaust
Relocated battery
Gauges: AEM wide band, autometer boost/vac, VDO water & oil temp, and a mechanical oil pressure gauge that needs to be replaced.
BikiROM for tuning; lol horray it works!!!


Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator - not originally planned
BC stage 2 cams - not originally planned

Down the road I'm planning on making a DIY manual boost controller, installing an adjustable FPR, re-doing the exhaust, running some race gas, and jacking boost for the occasional moment of significantly more than normal power. I also plan on an aftermarket radiator (w/ built in oil cooler if I can find one that will fit), so that the stock engine might survive a weekend or two at the track (road course for me) on low (5-7psi) boost.



**Late April**

Initial messy build pictures:
(sorry about size and quality, some were taking on a cell phone that isn't mine)

Mock up of turbo and manifold to make the DP




Funky custom DP, 2.5'' bend out of the 2.5'' turbine outlet for clearance reasons before gong to 3'' the rest of the way.




Piping fitment... lowering the PS reservoir, and using a random radiator hose for the turbo outlet makes the snug fit on that side work.






Pipe coming out of the IC is mild steel exhaust pipe...




So is the pipe where the battery used to be.




The BOV flange was not welded onto the charge piping in this picture. The steel pipes have since been painted to cut down on rust issues. On the bright side, all the charge piping was bead rolled if it was trimmed, even the steel ones. The turbo's oil feed line has also been routed in a more well fitting way at this point.




** Early May **

Pictures and stuff from the weekend. Mostly just linking pictures my friends put up when they tell me about them.

Flickr Photo Download: DSC_0238

Flickr Photo Download: DSC_0237

My car is at about time 2:40 or something...
YouTube - CCVT Car Show

*Note* -- Its important to note that my Bikirom was working great by this time, but tuning it was nearly impossible because the car was running on 3 cylinders, likely because of the head being warped.


** Then school got in the way and all of a sudden it was late June **

Well, long story short, the head was warped, and cyl#2 looked to have less carbon buildup than the others. I seriously hope that was what prevented me from running on all 4. The head is back on the car, but not torqued down till I find a 12mm 12pt deep socket that clears the cam journals. -- I guess 1/2'' drive wasn't what I need, and that 3/8'' might work out better.

Cams and FPR are being added since I had it all apart. Hopefully it will help me make a bit more power out of it.

Its nice to be starting to put it all back together again, but also frustrating that I may have to wait another week or so to finish out some summer classes and find some replacement fuel lines that were too stubborn for their own good
I think I started this project like 4 months ago at this point... I miss having a daily.

Maybe some pictures tomorrow if the weather holds.



** Jun 27 **

Lots of pics.... Oh and I found the socket I needed at sears...


Freshly back from the machine shop... lifters dropped back in.




Ahh shiny aluminum...




Shot of BMC clearance... May be sheilding that at some point, but i figure its minor in the grand scheme of things. I like the look of the valve cover, just wish that the letters were more shiny and that it wouldn't scratch so easily.




Front shot... it gets kinda tight to the dizzy on the intake to the compressor. But I like shots where I can see the compressor blades. :D




And damn it... looks like I have a rats nest to deal with.




** Early July **

Lately I've been trying to figure out how to block off my EGR w/ shit I have sitting around my apt, how to hook up an ebay AFPR that is likley to leak anyway, replacing fuel lines, realizing my oil drain is probably not working correctly, trying to get the fuel rail back onto the upper intake mani, and sorting out some electrical issues w/ my relocated battery. There's other shit I'm trying to do on the car as well, but its kinda minor I think.

Maybe I'll make an overly long and detailed list later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So like... what the hell are these guys peeking out of the nether regions below my TB supposed to go to? (ones marked w/ blue tape)




Or how about these guys in the back near the EGR? (again, ones marked w/ blue tape)
Oh, EGR won't be hooked up, its just for show in case of a visual inspection.




Edit: I wonder if I'll get to see an RC51 and a C5 run later tonight? Or maybe the C5 vs a supercharged fwd lump? Either way I want more video of the summer's fun.

ps - why don't I have a short 2-3'' philips screw driver? I was at the hardware store like an hour ago and forgot to get one... god damnit.
 

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Ok er well the two that are below the TB...i think the two you have left are the loop for the charcoal box which you have removed...

And if you are not using the EGR then those egr lines are to be removed....they connect to what looks like a junction of about three tiny tubes and they just route the vacuum to different parts...i think that junction whatever thingy is attached directly to either the IM or the head, I cant remember. Good luck retaining boost though...without using a block off plate...

But this is so funny, because, I just bought those injectors....and you started this thread after reading mine, and I mentioned that purchase in a response to you stating that you were going to start this thread. (Yeah, read that one about 4 times before you get it).

Did you get suby clips or did you mod the existing ones? If you modded the ones you had, tell me how you did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IIRC they came with the subie clips (grey) which are anoyingly slightly different than the black Nissan ones. My set of SR 370's or whatever plugged right into the black clips no prob, but the subie ones wouldnt do it even if I trimmed some of the shit off the clips to make it happen easier.

So what I wound up doing was swapping the clips on the harness from the OEM black clips over to the subie grey ones. It was kinda ghemetto and took the help of a friend because the way we finally got it done took 3 or 4 hands. It was still a pain in the ass, but at least it was doable. TBH, I'm not sure if its possible without having the clips... so maybe troll NASIOC for just a set of clips? I did only pay like 225 shipped for the suby injectors w/ clips, but swapping the clips on the harness was lame.

Your right, I did have to read that a few times... Because your posts since I talked about making this thread have been:
1) Your mom joke
2) LOL @ pic of fry
3) hint at an update or a nap, and guessing you didn't get laid, so wtf are you doing slacker?
Anyway I had to read it a bunch because you havent mentioned the injectors in your thread since I said I was making this thread over in your thread. HA - take that circular logic!!

I'll make an EGR block off plate out of some thin sheet metal tomorrow; cardboard didnt respond well to being drilled for the bolt holes. Found some sheet metal in the hardware store for $0.35, figured it may work as good or better than hacking the side of a beer can for a block off plate.

I still need a good vac source for the AFPR, BOV, and boost gauge... so knowing if I could use those lines back near the EGR would be great. It sounds like maybe? But maybe not if the junction for 3 tiny tubes has also been removed? I feel like this might not have been so confuzing if I'd paid more attention to shit when I ripped it all off the car in the first place.

LOL; I hope I don't need the charcoal box... The removal of the charcoal box was done by the crappy assed shop I think I mentioned in my first post. Turns out those lines aint a vac signal, so it does very little good to hook a boost gauge or bov up to those lines. Guess I'll block em off. Oh yeah and retard shop hooked the vac line of the BOV up backwards with a line that didnt give signal... talk about setup wrong. Even my idiot n00bness was like "wtf; really? glad my car's outa that place".
 

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No, those are definitely good vac signals.....i use on of them for my boost gauge and the other for my BOV....

I thought you said you were leaving the EGR valve on to look good for emissions? I dunno how emissions works as i live in FLA, but....

And about the charcoal box...NO you dont NEED it per-say, but what it does has something to do with relieving pressure from the gas tank. In other words, if you decide not to use it, make sure that the pipe coming from the gas tank is vented, and not plugged up! Or you cud blow ur shit up, no joke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Which line coming from the tank? There are three of them.

Feed, Return, and vent / purge. Charcoal canister deal's with the vent/purge jam... I figured toss a breather filter on the end and you're good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
w00t -- got the intake mani and head back on, now i just have to hook everything up and bolt it down and im ready to toss in the cams.

Progress you can SEE feels fucking great!! :thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So after working on the car today I got drunk (GREAT SUCCESS), and didn't have time to snap pictures.... maybe in the AM before it starts raining.... But here is a text update... to be fixed later when I'm sober enough to use Firefox's spell check.

Pulled the head studs out
and also got my EGR block off plate working for $0.35

Fail cardboard block off plate... metal one worked out a lot better w/ the help of some gasket goop stuff I had lying around.


Then I could fenegle the intake mani back in place
and then re-did the head studs
and got all my vac / fuel lines ready to go.

zomg I can see progress!!


and tossed in my cams w/ the help of a friend of mine... mmm BC stage 2. I hope they do good things for my power up top.


DO WORK -- check

Now I just have to finish hooking shit up, toss in the dizzy, and do a bunch of electrical stuff before its ready to run... Down side is that it looks like rain tomorrow so I might not have it done and tuned by Friday night.


EDIT: pics added to my drunk post from last night - enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I'm still working out how to do that... there's a bunch of ways to make sure you don't build pressure. At some point I'll figure something out, but for now its not a priority of mine; lol getting it running is.

I'm also trying to decide how to best fix the oil drain. The best idea I have right now (not an original idea) is to take a spare lower timing chain cover once I have it running and tap it for a -10an or -12an line, then just block off my current drain line at the pan and hope for the best.


Damn, I only have till 3 to work on it today... stupid rain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Not related, but its just too awesome not to post.

Being from just outside of Baltimore, that's hella exciting to me.
REPORT: Plans under way for harborfront IndyCar Grand Prix in Baltimore

Then we have some guy who is simply just better than all of us for getting megan fox to wash his ferarri in an audition... +1 to autoblog wanting that tape on the dvd's special features.
Michael Bay filmed Megan Fox washing his Ferrari as part of her Transformers audition?!

And now for some T-shirts a friend came up with that are fucking hilarious:
Obama Joke
Charlton Heston Joke that's somehow very appropriate for this thread.



Maybe later I'll break down and take some pictures of my engine bay again.
Edit - yeah I took some pictures, but between bad weather later today, me being unlikley to finish by friday, and needing to look up a bunch of tq specs before going much further... I don't see much happening today.
 

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car looks like shit... fix it....

tim, quit acting like you know what you're talking about.. go do something productive like work on your own car, instead of trying to help someone with thiers...

more people need to post....













































































































































KA looks awesome (better than tims), and i have the opportunity to get that SAME turbo you have, good looking start! can't wait to see more



subscribed
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So how long were you holding down the enter key? -- I know it looks like shit man... that's why I left the passenger side mirror a different color than the rest of the car. Silver moss mirror to remind me of my old car that looked good, and remind me that this car is ugly and will need to be fast to make up for it.

Thanks for the compliment man... I'll have to remember to re spray over the scratches on the valve cover before I bolt it down for good.

Any reason you have for going with the T04B .48 AR as opposed to a T04E w/ a .68 AR housing? The reason I ask is because I have my doubts about being happy with it even though I've not been able to drive it under boost yet. I hear spool at 2k in neutral and wonder about it running out of breath too soon.
 

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i went with the .48 for all bottom end spooling, i mean seeing 7-9lbs at 2.2k RPM is pretty bad ass, and suprisingly holds that boost (only had it up to 16.5lbs) all the way to red line.... i'm sure at around 20-22lbs it would start losing breath, but for right now, it's bad ass....

1st gear is insane, i pop the clutch, no tirespin, boost starts hitting at around 2k and it hit so hard the tires instantly snap loose.... Tim can vouch, he was there when i had it built, hell, he's the one who gave me such a good deal on it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Oh shit!! That does sound pretty kick ass. Where is your red line at? I'm probably going to have my shift points at 7k. Maybe I need to brush up on your setup some more.

I guess thinking about it, I hated driving my friends DSM where you'd have to wait till like 3-3.5k before it will build any positive boost. At least for street driving it was pretty lame having to wait on shit.


Edit: because I'm making too many posts in my own thread?
i went with the .48 for all bottom end spooling, i mean seeing 7-9lbs at 2.2k RPM is pretty bad ass, and suprisingly holds that boost (only had it up to 16.5lbs) all the way to red line.... i'm sure at around 20-22lbs it would start losing breath, but for right now, it's bad ass....

1st gear is insane, i pop the clutch, no tirespin, boost starts hitting at around 2k and it hit so hard the tires instantly snap loose.... Tim can vouch, he was there when i had it built, hell, he's the one who gave me such a good deal on it...
Wha? Your thread shows a bottom mount SR? With a T28 or something small. Are you talking about the performance of your current set up, the new turbo in a different car, or what?... Totally not following what you were referencing there. Sounds like you're talking about a pre existing setup of a turbo you don't yet have, damn confusing i tell ya.
 

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i have my rev limit set in my Nistune at 7800RPM.... GReddy Rocker Arm Stoppers FTW..

as for you 7k "shift point" i would lower that to around 5-6Krpm as thats where the KA's HP/TQ curve tends to fall off, especially 5k mark, after than you're actually just maintaining, or even losing power... remember, the benefit to KA's is their long stroke, and low end power, they're pretty much worthless over 6K unless you have some SERIOUS top end work...cams, valves, springs, retainers etc....

when i had my NA KA, and took it to the strip, i always shifted around 5-5.5K cause it was pretty much worthless to stretch the KA out RPM wise, and run the risk of bending one of those long ass rods....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The KA falls on its face at 5500 because the intake and exhaust manifolds are designed that way. However, even though I know the cause, I'm not sure how the turbo mani will effect that, and I've done nothing to change how the intake mani will behave. Intake harmonics and exhaust scavanging are great things to understand, even if I am still working on finding some good exhaust scavanging formulas.

My hope is that the BC cams will allow me to run it out a bit further / move the peak tq number up a bit higher and maybe make it fall off a little slower. If I'm right and it pulls hard till 7k, that's where I'll shift, and I'll set the fuel cut a few hundred RPM above that to avoid bouncing it off the limiter. If not, I'll set the fuel cut at 7000 and seldom go there if it doesn't reward me for doing so. My springs and retainers are stock, but they should hold. I know of people reving a lot higher than what I plan on doing without causing damage to the valve train.

I also don't plan on bending rods at 350hp and 7000rpm. I'm very confident in the guy tuning the car, and am more concerned about looking out for knock and melting pistons than I am with the rods.
 

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I'm very confident in the guy tuning the car, and am more concerned about looking out for knock and melting pistons than I am with the rods.
KAs are ALL about thier tune...

oh, and check my build thread.... EPIC update!
 
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