The fact that your engine continues to run after you've turned the key off is alarming to me. I might suspect the turbo timer for that one. You may have multiple problems.

 

sometimes i think people come up with problems just so they can post their stupid long mod list.

My car does this rarely. It's not diesling. I'm assuming its my ignition.

I drive around another mile and bam, fixes itself. lol

 

I would suggest that its possible your plugs are way too hot, but even at that when you shut off your key the fuel injectors should not open and the fuel pressure should kill. This does not seem possible. The only thing that could cause all of these systems to act up all at once would be your ecu.

 

no i am not lieing i know it sounds wierd. but i can litterally take the key out the ignition and car is still running turbo timer turned off. i even disconnected the turbo timer to assure this and i can open door get out the car and by the time i get out it sputters backfires bam and off it goes. but it doesnt always backfire sometimes it just sputters and shuts off. As for ecu i have power fc are you saying you think something is wrong with it? also engine isnt throwing any codes.

 

There simply has to be something wrong with it. Shutting off your key should tell your ecu to kilk your fuel pump, injectors, and coils, and even at that if you were still somehow getting fuel which should be impossible, there should not be any way for it to photodetenate.

 

well if fuel pump was hard wired i would constantly be getting fuel. which i am not. but i am completely stumped and have no clue. i did find another thread on another forum of someone else having the same problem. but it was back in 07 and no one did ever figure it out

 

Please document this with video and post it on youtube.

 

I might guess that the turbo timer is rather invasively wired into the ignition, obviously to keep the car running when the key is out, and if wired wrong, could be providing power to the ECU even when the key is off, i.e. injectors and ignition still taking place. It sounds like the fuel pump is turning off though because that's about how long it takes for the fuel system to depressurize under idle conditions when you pull the fuse, about 6 to 8 seconds.

So if your ECU is still powered, but your fuel pump is de-powered I could see it causing this scenario. Again, I know little to nothing about turbo timers. I'm guessing though that they must be wired in series with your ignition and power lines.

 

i am going to get a video of it in a bit. i think i might have figured out something. when i turn the igntion off and the car stays running my power fc controller is still on and stays on for those several seconds once the controller shuts off the car shuts off. so if this is whats causing it is that normal? cause ive never head of that happening

 

also yes the turbo timer is wired through the ignition but i just did recheck the wiring to the turbo timer and it is correct as greddy says on there site.

 

This video is the car at cold start up it seems car stay running longer and sputters more when cars warmed up.
YouTube - Sr20 idling high
The second video is the car warmed up where it keeps idling up and down and sputters when the keys out keeps running and then backfires. I have a bad exhaust leak that i havent fixed yet so thats what that noise is incase your wondering.
YouTube - sr20 sputtering

 

did you check the maf?

 

i dont have a maf sensor. mine runs on map. as for the manifold i will retorque all the bolts to spec and see if it changes but when it was put on it was toqued to specs.

 

anyone else have any idea after watching the videos?

 

the high rpm seems more like a vaccum leak but not for sure. now that is if idle screw is set correct. i had the same problem with my ka-e a few years back. *maybe*

the engine wanting to keep running. ... do you if your injected are leaking exsucces fuel? the needles may not be closeing completely. the spark plug could be really hot and still trying to ignite fumes. does the car blow any black smoke at start-up or even while driving?

 

Looks like there's a significant amount of mods to the car. Your tach is doing some really crazy stuff right there at the end. Also looks like you are running really lean while the idle is hunting. Your AFR gauge is hooked up to a wideband yes? I think you're going to have to take a very scientific and thus labor intensive and painstaking troubleshooting route with this to debug this problem. I would try to un-install the turbo timer first. That's the only thing that could be keeping your system "up" with the key out. At least that's my :twocents:

 

i have checked over and over again for vacuum leaks nothing... thing with the idle screw is the car wont stop hunting for idle so there is no way i can set it correctly. my plugs r 6's im pretty sure. my injectors arent leaking i have checked this and confirmed. as for the car running lean the way it jumps all over with the idle jumping its hard to get a good reading on what idle a/f would be. mainly if i can get the idle hunting fixed i will go from there about the a/f which i planned on having the car retuned anyway but not trying to take it to them and have them charge me out the ass to fix other problems with the car. A/F gauge is hooked up through wideband. As for the turbo timer you think just unplugging it could still cause that? and needing to be completely disconnected. i can try disconnecting it. but i pulled the motor today for few other reasons.

 

also forgot to mention although while its hunting for idle and a/f looks to be lean. car smells like its running rich.

 

So you've pulled the engine already? Hook the vacuum system back up as simply as possible. I like to eliminate all the transitions from hard lines to rubber lines that Nissan likes to put in there. Also eliminate EGR and your canister too, if they are not already gone. (Assuming you don't have to pass emissions)

I assume the turbo timer is a box under the dash? I've never worked with one. I still am putting my chips on that. To me, that's the biggest mystery and therefore needs to be eliminated as a variable. IMO, turbo timers are un-necessary and borderline gimmickery, but again just my opinion. That's for a different conversation.

 

Yes i have already pulled the engine. i did find that the number 1 cylinder injector is missing the o ring and this little plastic peice that goes on before the o ring. i guess i need to get ahold of precision and see how i can get one of these. now i am not sure if it fell off when i pulled fuel rail or if it was off before cause like i stated before the injectors were not leaking. well atleast to my knowledge. Possibly this is causing the engine running after shut off.

 

If it's just the o-ring you can buy one from Nissan. Yeah I would do that first and make sure your fuel rail and injectors aren't leaking. Pressurize the rail before installing to check.

 

no its not just the oring. there is this little black plastic peice right above the o-ring if the injectors was sitting how it would going into the fuel rail. its the o-ring on the side that goes into the intake manifold. i contacted precision through email and waiting to hear back from them hoipefully they can send me atleast the plastic peice i can always get a oring else wheres.

 

I think they might be called isolators. And if you are missing one, you've definitely got a vacuum leak.

 

I found them there called pintel caps.

 

ah, not what I was thinking.