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SR20 redtop not starting

4.2K views 25 replies 7 participants last post by  Boostedsil80  
#1 ·
So I JUST bought my car and it has a relocated battery in the hatch, I had noticed the car took forever to start, and when I looked in the battery holder I saw a blue, car audio battery. So I figured a new battery (Duralast DL-25) would fix it. When plugged in, the starter would spin, but the car wouldn't even crank. Now i put the old one in, and it's cranking but not starting. Tried giving it a little gas now there's a definite fuel smell whenever I try to crank it. Is it possible the engine is flooded? Did plugging in a Duralast battery screw something up? I just want to drive my car :( I just drove it like an hour ago with the old battery in before i tried putting in a new one... :tears
 
#3 ·
OK so i finally got to check all my fuses, blew an ALT fuse. Replaced it, all my interior lights come on. radio comes on. everything works. car turns over but will not crank. Friend seems to think it's the alternator? Possible? I honestly don't know this is my first nissan
 
#4 ·
Okay so all the fuses are good now, looks like we're not getting a spark, we checked it out and we're deffinately not getting one. Now what? lol My friend brought an extra coil to my house but we couldn't find the one on the motor at all. Also is the alternator still a possibility? Or is it the ignitor? Where is the coil? or the ignitor? Man I'm a noob. :tears
 
#5 ·
i had the same problem like i said if its not getting spark check and see if ur plug wires are still good or if ur coil is still good. and its not ur alt. its def the coil where the wires go into or wires or in that area def check out that stuff and if its not that then post back explain what its doing

and another thing is there is three diffrent ways the sr gets power to spark.

1. from the ecu
2. there is a clip on the wiring harness by where the battery should be inside the hood.
3. just check everything and see where the power is getting lost at follow the plug wires back to the coil check that and little stuff its hard for me to say excactly cause i cant see whats happening and i dont wanna give u the wrong advise. if u kno what im trying to get to lol.

but ya just start off with the little stuff
 
#6 ·
So how do i tell if it's something wrong with the ECU? And if something is wrong with it, how do I fix it? Or do I need to buy a new one?

Also, what clip by the battery are you referring to?

One of my friends is bringing over a new ignitor chip tommorow. Hope it works :12dunno

can you maybe point it out in one of these photos?

Image



Image
 
#7 ·
yes you could very possibly have flooded it. pull the spark plugs and see if they are fouled. might as well buy some new ones... i use bkr7es-11. Advance auto parts can get them (about $10) gap to .28 and install the new ones. now turn the key to the on position but dont crank it, just prime the fuel lines. pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the shit out of it. if it starts then dies (inevitably) get a second person to help you and repeat the process, only when it starts have someone quickly place the fuse back in its location. good luck!
 
#8 ·
sorry i feel like a 'tard now, i didnt read the replies just the first message. so you blew the alt fuse. when i blew my alt fuse, i replaced it and didnt get spark. the problem was my ignitor chip so i got a new one and she fired right up. you can get them on ebay... you can pay $90 for a non-oem canadian brand, or get a q45 ignitor chip but it requirs some rewiring, or spend a couple hundred on the oem nissan brand. I have been using the canadian one with no problems.
 
#9 ·
Yep my friend is bringing me an Ignitor chip in a hour or so and we're gonna try it out! I hope it works!!

Also, checked the ECU, got a solid red light? Good or bad? I know it flashes when it throws codes but is solid normal?
 
#13 ·
i'm the friend thats helping him.

it's a 4 gauge wire that runs to the batery but the wire melted the sound det, so nick, you might want to try running different wire.

i'm a ka person so i'm kinda iffy on sr's but the ignitor seem to def be the problem.

boostedsil80, we will try your theory the next time when i get over there.

this helps a lot. we have a autox on the 7th so we have to get it running bafore then!!!
 
#14 ·
youll get a voltage drop over long power cable if its not thick enough. All it takes is a drop of 1 volt and youll get erratic starting issues - sometimes it wont start at all. Use a multimeter to check the voltage at the starter, but personally id use 2 gauge in a relocation.

If the wire is getting that hot then its probably not thick enough
 
#17 ·
I have to do it every time I start my car but thats because I have a timing problem. My CAS sensor wheel is bent, dont know how the hell that happened but it is. Right now the ground is covered with snow (along with my car) so i'm not even fucking with it until i move back to NC in a few weeks. I got to replace the CAS, relocate my battery (Already got the kit) and get new fans because one rubbed against my radiator and burnt up, just melted the wire. I think your problem is definitely the ignitor chip, because your car is doing the exact same thing mine did when my ignitor went. Runs fine, then you go to start it and nothing, so you replace the blown ALT fuse and then CRANKCRANKCRANKCRANKCRANK but no start, then replace ignitor chip and CRANKCRANK VROOOOOM!! VROOOOM!!!

Anybody know any good "Car Shippers" that arent rediculously expensive? And are not pussies about shipping lowered cars?
 
#21 ·
Did you not read my post? Not starting could be an indication of too much voltage drop. Most of your accessories will run fine on just below 12v but your car will not start unless you have >12 or 13v

And also I just noticed your other post

Okay so all the fuses are good now, looks like we're not getting a spark, we checked it out and we're deffinately not getting one. Now what? lol My friend brought an extra coil to my house but we couldn't find the one on the motor at all. Also is the alternator still a possibility? Or is it the ignitor? Where is the coil? or the ignitor? Man I'm a noob
SR runs 4 individual coilpacks - 1 per spark plug. That are under the grey plastic cover on the red rocker cover. The ignitor chip is simply a 'switch' that enables the ignition to deliver high current to the coilpacks in rapid succession.
 
#20 ·
Left the negative terminal of the battery unplugged and gonna try it later. Maybe an ecu reset will help? Solid light on the ECU, is that throwing a code? Or is it all good?

Ignitor chip is on the way and if that doesn't fix it I don't know what I will do. Plan on posting update.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Ohhhh, ok. we had a coil from a KA, didn't know the 4 things by the spark plugs were the coils.

we pulled the spark plugs out the motor and attached to the coil packs, and tried to turn over the engine and we couldn't see any spark. Is it possible the coils are bad?

don't have a volt meter to measure anything so I guess I'm going to have to get one
 
#25 ·
i really dont see how moving your battery to the boot will make that much difference...

what size cable did you use.. you should have used "zero gauge" cable.. move the battery back to the fornt for 5min and see if the car starts.. ( I have been working on sr's for 8 years and i have never managed to flood the things)
 
#26 ·
Leaking O-rings , stuck injectors and faulty alternators are 3 things that will definitely flood an SR. I've managed to flood my SR twice in the past 2 months(A weak spark from a dying alternator=unburned fuel= Bogging and black smoke and comming to rest on the roadside.... so the first time you try to start it on the side of the road guess what? its flooded) I'm on my 4th set of spark plugs this year. ICanHasBoost you need to switch that 4 guage to 2 guage ASAP. If not I hope you have a fire extinguisher somewhere in your car cuz it'll come in quite handy. Run an extra engine ground 2

Any good battery relocation kit comes with 2 gauge wire (not 4 gauge) for very good reasons.