Some wideband o2 sensors need to be calibrated from time to time. Innovate gauges I know for sure do. That's what I run. Do you notice any change in how it runs or just mostly the numbers?

 

Just did some testing and from cold start the car seems great. The idle seems to be a bit jumpy notin a sence where it bounces a lot but more of it fosnt know where it wants to run at. As it warms up it wants to idle at around1100 to 1200 rpm and about 13.8:1 and then a little cooler it sometimes drops to 900rpm with about 15:1 all at idle. Cat seems to be running perfect. I noticed before that sometimes when I come to a stop the idle bounces like it's searching for its perfect idle. It's also a aem wide band.

 

Any ideas?

 

Check the tps. Also check the idle control valve. It might be dirty and sticking.

 

Hate to ask but do u mean like clean it with electric cleaner I did that to the maf already I can use the same can?

 

I mean take it off the manifold and clean the valve itself. It gets gummed up with carbon and other crap. It has small springs inside that won't work right along with the valve itself.

 

Do you have a wideband or narrowband signal?

Narrow band is crap and will jump all over like a disco light. Worthless IMO.

 

I'll try cleaning everything and I'm sure it's a wideband it dosnt jump around spot it just dosnt seem to run the same from day to day. The idle can also be weird as well

 

Ok after checking everything out I whent for a drive and it drove great it boosted hard and ran good. It was running from 14:1 to 15:1 under cruise and idle when I hit full boost it would drop back to 12:1 to 13:1. This was mostly at 160 degrees. When I came back and it was at 180 to 200 degrees, it was idling at 1200 and was dipping into the 11:1 afr range. But I could not tell any drivability problem or power loss.

 

That's still not ok idle. Your going to foul your injectors. Even under boost 13:1 is getting lean as well. That safc needs adjustment. Why do you have one for only 10psi? The stock tune will handle it just fine, I DD mine at that setting. As long as you have the supporting bolt ons for it you'll be good. Above 10 your riskin it tho


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If you're on the OEM injectors and AFR, ditch the SAFC completely. Stock ECU can handle 10PSI, I'd bet a dollar that's every bit of your troubles. They're garbage.

 

The safc was on there when I bought it not sure how to take it out I will consult the shop who tuned it and see what they say.

 

I haven't made it to the tunning shop but my battery died yesterday so I put it on charge and drove it tonight and after a sputtery start the idle was better and afr stayed in the 14s at idle. It idled around 1100 rpm so I played with the safc and I couldn't find where any values where changed. The lowest afr I saw at cruise or idle was 13.8:1 and and boosting was down to low 12s could my dead battery have default the safc and now runs like it isn't there?

 

A bad battery can effect it all.....very bad deal if fuel isn't delivered causing lean burn which results in detention! !!!

Piggy back afc no way

If the stock ecu can carry the setup then why worry ? If your worried then get full control and run a standalone ecu !!! I'd like to see 12.5 Afr at 10psi .

I know your using what you got and if it seems to be running well just leave it ... until the urge of 15 -20 psi comes lol

Good luck bro



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My only thing is I'm not sure what numbers are good or not kinda new to all of this so I'm trying to post as much info as I can. The battery is fine it's just been cold and ant been driven in 3 weeks so it needed a little help. If my new numbers are good ill just dump the safc and save up for a aem tru boost and ems.

 

14.7 is great

14 getting richer

13.5 rich

13 filthy

12.5 better be using the boost gauge !!!!! Lol


Ideal 14 -15 is fine, shoot cruising with no boost I tuned for economy reasons
When applying boost you are increasing compression like a mofo ... higher octane and ignition become issue later in the big dog world .


Get new spark plugs and learn to read them ....all else fails like computer glitches .....go straight to the source the "combustion chamber"=spark plug ..Google is your friend.

hope this helps

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So I should be fine just by leaving it alone then right?

 

If its stock turbo with orginal stock map in ecu .....I'd say so .....u could have other issues like air getting past mass air flow sensor .

But I would suspect a CEL at that point

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I'll try checking for air leaks. My biggest thing was I wasn't sure what afr was good in my car and how mine stacked up but besides that it idles just a tad bit high but it runs just about perfect.

 

I'm sure I don't have any leaks my boost gauge is always at -19to-20 at idle and my spark plugs look pretty good just a tad black with brown in the white part of the middle.