spark plugs sound alright. i think it's a boost leak. damn those boost leaks. mine's like that. on a cold start, it struggles to start up. when i lightly tap the gas, the rpm's drop a bit THEN rise. but after it's warm, the problem is gone. (i think it's my engine adapting to it.) i already knowit's a boost leak, i'm just too damn lazy to fix it.

 

If you have a walboro 255 you need a new fuel pressure regulator. The stock one can't handle the hi pressure of the walboro and won't release the pressure fast enough, so you may be dumping way too much fuel into the motor.

 

If you have a walboro 255 you need a new fuel pressure regulator. The stock one can't handle the hi pressure of the walboro and won't release the pressure fast enough, so you may be dumping way too much fuel into the motor.

I have a walbro on the stock FPR and it works fine. Not saying this is true in all cases.
And I have not really heard before that you have to change the FPR. However the SR is set up to give variable voltage to the fuel pump, which supposedly the Walbro does not like...so many people make a setup so it has a constant 12V supply.
Once you do this then I could see that it is possible that the stock FPR is inadequate.

 

If you have a walboro 255 you need a new fuel pressure regulator. The stock one can't handle the hi pressure of the walboro and won't release the pressure fast enough, so you may be dumping way too much fuel into the motor.

:1bullshit

 

If you have a walboro 255 you need a new fuel pressure regulator. The stock one can't handle the hi pressure of the walboro and won't release the pressure fast enough, so you may be dumping way too much fuel into the motor.

yeah thats only on the rbs buddy. does it rev past 2500rpm?

 

^agree

BS. I also run the 255 w/stock FPR. No probs here.

 

lol dizzles180sx u are so :4owned me got stock fpr too, timing maybe the issue any other symtoms?
btw i want to set my idle a lil higher tho coz whenever i stop my car from running it drop to 500rpm and feel like its gonna die but back to normal (750rpm) after half a second, idle no problem, shouldnt be boost leak coz i have my bov recirc. should i set i a lil higher like 800-850?

 

you can also check your TPS (throttle position sensor). It acts as a tip-in device. When you first blip the throttle, the TPS is used to dump extra fuel instantly because there is a slight delay from the maf to the throttle plate. A bad TPS will give you those kind of stuttering problems. Just check it and eliminate it from the system. You can search on here and find out how to check it.

 

test the ignitor

 

Um...wouldn't a boost leak still effect your idle even if you rec your bov.

I thought recirculating your BOV would only help your engine if the problems were caused by a funky AFR.

Boost leak is a boost leak.