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Warningx's 1995 Zenki Build

12K views 162 replies 5 participants last post by  warningx  
#1 ·
Well guys, for starters, I hope I can keep up with you guys and your builds! I know there are going to be a few big money parts that I'm going to have to save up for, so maybe I can find some filler to keep you guys entertained during those moments! Lol. Anyways, on with the car!


We will start with a few of your basic photos of the car. These were from the seller's Craigslist ad.


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Just picked it up off of Craigslist a week ago. Guy wasn't sure what was wrong with it. It idled like crap, but at least it ran. Engine was supposedly dropped in right before he purchased it 4 years ago, so it SHOULD have around 80k on it. At least that's what he said. He thought it was a camshaft sensor or a crankshaft sensor. When we went to check it out I had my dad take a look and he noticed right away a loud hissing coming from the intake side of the car, so we crossed our fingers and hoped that all it was was a vacuum leak and I'd have the car running in tip-top shape with some cheap hose that would keep a dent from forming in my pocket. Ended up getting the car for $2,100 with a trade of my Ruger AR15/AR556, so I wasn't hurting too bad if anything did end up being terribly wrong with the engine.


Short story short, we attempted to get it home and it broke down on us about 15 minutes into the trip. It would start idling worse than it had been, if you didn't keep your foot on the throttle in the exact same spot it would start jerking you around, and then after it had warmed up it would die. The guy said it would start to lean out, and then it just wouldn't want to drive anymore until after it had cooled down. It had worried me that he had driven it for 3 months like this, and then it sat for another 3 months after he decided to purchase a 350z. I was just hoping that there wasn't something terribly wrong with it and that the hackjob of the wiring harness wasn't causing this.


Okay! So we get it home. It's cold out, it's late, I'm hungry, so I get Mexican! Saturday morning I wake up at 7am and try to find some vacuum leaks! I found 2. One was in the intake manifold where it meets the head and the other was on the nut that runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR I believe. I've read a lot of people blocking off the EGR since it was there just for emissions, so that was something I've pondered of doing, but I wanted to get this thing on the road as soon as possible! I find the gasket for the intake for $6.99 I think at my local AutoZone, pick it up and start to work. I did NOT realize that even though not terribly hard, but a little time consuming it would be the gasket would be.


This is how the car would run at idle and after taking off the MAF sensor and it's hacked up wiring.


*VIDEO* *VIDEO* http://vid113.photobucket.com/albums/n211/warningx10x24x/240sx/IMG_1760.mp4 *VIDEO* *VIDEO*


And here's a close up of the wiring the previous owner had done to attempt to fix the wiring harness that was "dry rotting"


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For the time being, I went ahead and tried to wire the MAF as best as I could and got it to stay in place with electrical tape.


Fast forward. So I replaced the gasket! Tried to tighten the nut on the EGR, but it wouldn't move. For the time being I said F-it, but! She idles a lot better now! This is last Sunday. I also thought that something was wrong with my MAF and unplugging the sensor would make the car run a lot better, but would kick it into limp mode and wouldn't let me rev it passed 2,500 RPM. With this going on, I figured it was probably wired correctly, because even though it idled really rough, when it was plugged in it wouldn't be in limp mode. So I drove it around the block a few times and it felt fine, so I decided I was going to attempt to make it to work with it on Monday.


Some progress photos *LOL*


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Anyways, I made it to work, but barely! About 2 minutes away it started shaking again and acting like it was going to die out. I researched this a little bit, some people at work were saying it was probably still a vacuum leak, could be an 02 sensor, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, or rotor button. I thought that it was the MAF losing connecting with the janky wires, then it reconnecting over and over again. Something was getting warm and shutting down after getting to operating temps and I didn't know what. So I tried the "throw money at it until it fixes it" method after doing a lot of research, and for me, it actually worked!



So I started with routine maintenance first. Plugs/wires/cap/rotor button. I decided to pull the O2 sensor off since I was in there and see what it looked like. This is it.


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Showed it to a few friends and my dad and they thought that it looked fine. Okay, lets pull the spark plugs.


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Hmm....one of these things is not like the other. Then I check the distributor cap and the rotor button. Didn't get any pics of the cap, but here's the button. A little worn, but still good. Some sand paper did her up just right.


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So I go to the parts store and pick up some new spark plugs. We get them in and start the car. Sounds and runs the same. Well that didn't fix it, I thought. So my dad is listening to it and has me shut the car off and he pulls the wire for cylinder 4. I start it again, nothing changes. It runs exactly the same. So cylinder 4 isn't firing. We grab a different plug out of the garage, put it in my wire, ground it, and when I start the car it's getting spark. Must be fuel. I pull the plug from cylinder 3 and cylinder 4 to inspect them and smell for fuel. This is what I see.


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The one from cylinder 4 looks brand new. Still shiny and everything. Give it a whiff, no fuel smell. *crosses fingers* Hopefully it's just an injector. But could that really be what's causing the car to shut off after driving it for 15 minutes?


Get the injector ordered on Wednesday and get it home. By this time I'm a pro at getting the fuel rail off of the car, get the new injector in, and cross my fingers. I start it and this is what I get.


*VIDEO* *VIDEO* http://vid113.photobucket.com/albums/n211/warningx10x24x/240sx/IMG_1811.mp4 *VIDEO* *VIDEO*


I swear, when I started it I didn't even know it was running it was so smooth. I let it run for aboout 10 minutes and letting it warm up a little bit before attempting to drive it around town and hopefully not getting broke down anywhere. It didn't. After a week of work and $80, SHE LIVES!!! :eeksurprise::big_grin:
 
#107 ·
I heard the terrible noise! Lol. Ugh. Yesterday found out that under load, my inner rim of my wheel was eating into the sleeve of my coilover. Strapped on some spacers to try and help with that. Now I'm hella flush. Can probably fit a credit card between the tire and quarter panel. Lol. I'm thinking about raising it up in a few weeks. I've got a road trip to make in it.
 
#109 ·
#114 ·
As long as you use quality Kits they do pretty decent in Halogen housings. Unless your a HID Nazi then nothing will satisfy lol.

JDM High beams are H1's?
Get a 9005 Male Pigtail and power to the single wire on the H1 then you can go about many ways to ground the last wire to the Bulb Base/Housing.
 
#115 ·
I've read good things about theretrofitsource, so I hope they're good. They're supposed to be a really quality product. I hope they are for $160, lol.

I read that the bulb is an H3C bulb for the JDM Zenki lights. I guess I'll find out when I actually get around to ordering them, lol. The other thing I think people are going to hate is if I go the route of clear lenses with the HID's. They just look so good with them, which is why I want to go the route of the JDM headlights, or even the Euro glass lights. They just look better IMO
 
#116 ·
JDM looks good with clear because of the separate high low beam bowls. USDM is a one piece. And expect your half decent beam pattern to turn into cheap once you do the clear sense. The fluting is the only thing making the spread half decent. Euro is just sex and best all around. Unless someone's baller enough to put glass sense on a JDM housing. Separate bowls + Euro glass is just win!
 
#117 ·
Got the HID's in, they're super bright and I love them, lol. I just hope it's not too bad for everyone else. Looks like I'm going to be saving up for a truck next month so I doubt that I'm going to be able to update much until after all that's taken care of, but hopefully I'll be back soon and be able to get a storage unit built so I can start tearing things down. Regardless, I washed my car today, so have an ass shot! Lol.

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#119 ·
Was supposed to pick up an older F150 from a friend with a shit transmission to replace. I ended up not getting that, but then a few weeks later my brother called me up and asked me if I wanted his S10 for $500, so I picked that up. Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll be building a little storage tent for the S14 and will start pulling things off of it, starting with the KA24....Lol. I really need to get this show on the road.
 
#123 ·
I have a block with 700hp rods, no pistons and a 91mm headgasket. I shouldn't be surprised by this car but I am always am. It seems to like to cause me heartache.

I had a 10 seconds turbo'd sunfire with Wiseco's. My 350 had CP pistons only because the VQ motor tends to eat pistons up. When I called around there were several high hp builds with Wiseco's on the KA-T builds so I went down that path. Little did I know what Jasper had done to the block already.
 
#124 ·
Okay, so I need help because I'm not seeming to find anything on this.

So, the other day I decided I'm going to pull my engine to sell it, but I'm not a dishonest guy, so I'm not going to try to sell someone a junked engine without letting them know what's wrong with it. Lately, my car has been having issues (I think they're more electrical than engine related) where I will be driving and all of a sudden I will lose power. It will bog down really bad, stepping on the throttle does nothing, and engine won't rev when I engage the clutch. Then, all of a sudden it will catch, and all will be good again. It's throwing a code for the MAF as well, and while running, tapping on the sensor will 'cause it to idle rough and almost die. A few friends I've talked to thought it may be a loose ground or something catching every once in a while. That's the first thing.

The second thing that has been happening is the car will start to overheat sometime. Usually it will be fine, but when it's NOT underload (at a stop sign, red light, parked, etc) the temperature will start to creep. Now, this isn't all the time. Then, under load, (driving, holding the revs at 3k while parked, etc) it will be fine. I was wondering if it was maybe the clutch fan having issues.

So the other night, here is what happened. Took it out. NO issues with it overheating. Get home, park. I go inside and order a pizza. Pizza comes, go to the door to get it, and my corner lights are on in the 240. Well, that's weird, because I didn't leave them on. I can also hear something running, but definitely quieter than the engine/exhaust. I'm like....wtf? So I get out to the car, open the door, pop the hood, and I try to turn the lights off. The lights ARE off. Look under the hood, and something is running, but what? Well, it seems that there is an electric fan against the back of my radiator. Now, I've been searching, and I DON'T think this is stock, but that's where you guys come in.

IS there a stock electric fan as well as the clutch fan, or no?

I had to pull the battery cables and yesterday morning I plugged it back in, everything is fine again. My dad seems to think I've got a short somewhere, but the thing is, is it wasn't there yesterday morning. I'm so dumbfounded. BUT, I feel like that COULD be the issue with my overheating and possibly even the electrical issue. I'm thinking maybe it only kicks on when the wires hit something while driving or something, and maybe that's also the issue with it bogging down. I'm just not sure. And I'm not trying to sell my engine with these issues, but I'm also not trying to throw a bunch of money at it if I'm just going to try and pull it. I'm stumped. Anyways, here's a photo of the said "electric fan." Let me know if it's an OEM option or not. Sorry it's a shit pic, I couldn't really get into it with the clutch fan running. Didn't think of it, but I guess it would have been smarter to try to take the picture with the car off.

The photo is showing the fan blades of the electric fan behind the spinning clutch fan.

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#131 ·
I can't complain about my Dohc KA. 218k and it handled a track day. This engine is just temporary. The coupe is going to get something with a little more power.
Honestly a motor like yours is a "as is warranty". But I realize people expect the moon and aren't purchasing the moon

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
#135 ·
Today I started tearing her apart. Drained the radiator, the A/C lines, and pulled the radiator, a/c condenser, a/c fan, fan shroud, intake, and took a lot of the wiring harness off of everything. I meant to start with the exhaust and driveshaft, but started under the hood and just kept going at it.

That battery tray rust :tears

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And this is the aftermath so far, lol

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Will probably get the exhaust off, driveshaft, and more A/C lines off tomorrow.

P.S. If anyone is interested I'll be selling my Zenki tail lights, front seats, eBay exhaust, eBay strut bar, and an OEM zenki grill with all tabs in tact. Was red, previous owner painted it black.