go weld it if your low on monies. if you want a clutch type lsd go with kaaz 2 way. but theres not much difference in welded and 2 way. welded will last longer if it was welded good enough, and itll have less maintaince than clutch type lsd.
but im not going to say anything else. cause this has been covered many times. just search.

 

NOOB!!haha j/k man :thumbsup I would also look into getting a used clutch type LSD. They go for ~$400-500.

 

if you're gonna drift once a month, i would even go 1.5, daily driving in a two way can get old

 

why do people say daily driving in a two way is bad or annoying?

 

so theres not really a difference between welded and 2way since theyre both pretty much locked right? but with a real lsd, u can set when you want it to lock at a certain speed and welded is just 100% locked?

 

yeah theres not much difference.
and no there is nothing you can 'set' on a clutch pack lsd. some allow you to make it 2 way or 1.5, but you cant 'set' when it locks. it locks on throttle, and off throttle. thats it. period.

 

^^^yea, but the welds can break if you're not careful......THEN you need a new lsd

 

iw ouldnt recomend welding your diff. unless you like going through tires really fast.

1) when you turn if the diff is welded the inside tire has to turn the same speed as the outside creating a great deal of friction.

2) driving in rain or snow will be fun but you'll probly end up in a ditch

3) alot of stress will be put on the axels

4) and it will also limit the cars turning ability a great deal

so i wouldnt do it.

 

so then setting a 2way to 100% would be a bad idea cuz of those too right?
and when you say it "limits a cars turning ability a great deal" do you mean that its harder because you'll always oversteer?

 

Best and what's realistic are two different things...

Personally I am going helical eventually in my daily driver. I hate noise. If I had a weekend warrior, I'd do a two-way or welded.

 

not true. there is quite a big difference between welded and 2 ways.

LayNLow there are 2 ways out there like the nismo pro gt that you can adjust the breakaway torque. That is what he is talking about.

And no 2 ways are not locked all the time like you said, they actually act as open differentials until the pressure on the clutch plate reaches the breakaway torque which is usually ~ 70 ft/lbs, aftermarket companies often post what the breakaway is. "2 way" the name simply refers to the the pressure caused by both accelerating and decelerating can cause the lsd to breakaway. Also a lsd never actually "locks" both wheels like how the welded diff does. The lsd will allow one wheel to spin faster than the the other and the difference in speed is the more pressure is applied to the clutch to divert more power to the other wheel, hence the name "limited slip". A welded diff will rotate each wheel at the same speed regardless of the conditions, thus many people will use it as a cheap alternative for drifting because its easier to slide and break traction with, however for daily driving this kind of differential is very dangerous in the rain because going around pretty much any corner above 10 mph you will lose traction and slide.

 

not true. there is quite a big difference between welded and 2 ways.

LayNLow there are 2 ways out there like the nismo pro gt that you can adjust the breakaway torque. That is what he is talking about.

And no 2 ways are not locked all the time like you said, they actually act as open differentials until the pressure on the clutch plate reaches the breakaway torque which is usually ~ 70 ft/lbs, aftermarket companies often post what the breakaway is. "2 way" the name simply refers to the the pressure caused by both accelerating and decelerating can cause the lsd to breakaway. Also a lsd never actually "locks" both wheels like how the welded diff does. The lsd will allow one wheel to spin faster than the the other and the difference in speed is the more pressure is applied to the clutch to divert more power to the other wheel, hence the name "limited slip". A welded diff will rotate each wheel at the same speed regardless of the conditions, thus many people will use it as a cheap alternative for drifting because its easier to slide and break traction with, however for daily driving this kind of differential is very dangerous in the rain because going around pretty much any corner above 10 mph you will lose traction and slide.

wow..it all makes sense now. lol
thank you bojangles!:1bowdown

 

i do what i can

 

um last time I checked fwd cars have the worst traction in the snow out of all engine layouts... so I'm not suprised with that. And generally speaking you can take any corner (wet or dry) at a higher lateral G with a 2 way limited slip than you can with a welded differential, that is what I was getting at.

 

FWD is not an engine layout...however; in general AWD > FWD > RWD in snow and rain.

I am not sure where you checked to see that FWD was noted as worst.

 

ok my bad... lol FF vs the FR in the snow, FF have generally worse traction. Granted acceleration may be better but braking and cornering traction is far worse on the FF.

I checked personal experience (lived in seattle wa for 13 years) and from basic newtonian physics. There is a greater amount of pressure over the front tires in a FF layout than there is in a FR layout. When braking the weight of the car shifts forward and puts an excessive amount of pressure on the front tires, that combined with the horizontally mounted motor and teh tranny and differential all being located in front of the firewall causes much more pressure on the front tires than in a FR car. Plus in a FR car you can use the compression of the motor to slow you down to some degree (leave it in gear as you begin braking and the weight transition is much more neutral).

In cornering yes you have a mild oversteer problem in FR's but in FF's you have a much more difficult time with the understeer you encounter. Not to mention you cannot "counter" an understeer... I guess you could pull the ebrake but then all 4 of your tires are skidding. I'd much rather drive with the chance of oversteer on a corner than the very certain chance of understeer.... Thats why I think FR > FF in snow.

 

That may be your opinion, but newtonian or not...the rest of the world would mostly be against that thought.

For most driving conditions in the snow, FWD is better; as well as in the rain.

 

since you have so much exp driving in the snow in fla LOL

no sidewayz you won't "die" in the rain, just be careful and drive with caution. As for sound, welded diffs don't make that horrible clunking noise... thats in the 2 way clutch types only when people don't break them in correctly, the clutches don't set right against one another and the make a clunking noise every once in a while. Only noise your going to have to deal with is the chirping of one tire while your parking or doing any slow sharp manuvering.

 

sooo im going to weld my differential, my FINAL question is am i going to crash and die in the rain? I dont plan on taking turns at 30 in traffic, but im not taking corners with my 4-ways blinking either. i mean ive never lost traction with a osd, and im a good driver.

THIS is all i care about, fuck noise, my car is loud as it is, and if im worried about stares becuase of ghetto sounds, ill just mask it with some loud bass (more ghetto sound)....

my car is a moving sound violation regardless....

 

As a Seattlelite and Bellinghamster my whole life but a few years( i am now 30) I gotta disagree with ya bojangles. EXCEPT for the brakeing in snow with a FF.
You know when your in a golf in the snow the damn car just gets drug behind the engine and wheels. point the wheels and it will go.
Brakeing is tricky no matter what, in the snow. FF or FR, it dont matter. take it out of gear and slow, pump em if they lock up.

But rwd in the snow takes alot of skill. It just wants to fishtail everywhere. ya always gotta put the clutch in on corners or the rear end will come around.

I gotta say too, that a old VW bug kicks butt in the snow. RR, it just goes.

I even had a truck with drum brakes in the back and a 454 under the hood. I learned to put a car in nuetral while brakeing cause the engine was so strong the drums wouldnt hold the wheels from turning. I would hit the brakes and the front would lock. Then the rear wheels would just keep puching me through the snow. And I had no steering control because the fronts where locked and just slid. scary till i figured it out.

And no matter what car your driveing in the snow, pine branches and your car rugs become your best friend at sometime

 

lol before I moved ot atlanta (4 years ago) I lived in Alderwood/Lynnwood my whole life. Glad to see another Washingtonian lol

 

And Glad to see we both got out.
On the Diff topic. I got my vlsd back plate off with some trouble. And today I am going to the pick a part to get another open diff back plate. That way I can run my vlsd all the time and have my old open welded. then i can put it in occationally to get really loose

 

2-ways will make noise at low speed even if broken in properly...there is a trick to apply a bit of throttle as you turn at low speed to stop it.

It's more chatter though, since you mentioned clunk we may be talking two different problems.

I am thinking helical myself, or if I can find a R200 torsen that subaru supposedly makes. Not the best for drift I know...but I prefer more road race.