I think they are a great idea. I also know im going to install one real soon. I think that one LOOKS great too, BUT I do believe that one is the k-sport one, and I have trouble trusting the quality from that company, especially when it deals with the main breaking system. The hydro e-breaks utalise your normal breaking system.

check out this one CNC, Inc. - Hand and Staging Brakes
its actually a staging break, but will work the same if you just rout it inline with your rear breaks.

search google for staging break and youll get better options than k sport.
I have no experience with the k sport, but I still wont trust that company.

 

I think they are a great idea. I also know im going to install one real soon. I think that one LOOKS great too, BUT I do believe that one is the k-sport one, and I have trouble trusting the quality from that company, especially when it deals with the main breaking system. The hydro e-breaks utalise your normal breaking system.

check out this one CNC, Inc. - Hand and Staging Brakes
its actually a staging break, but will work the same if you just rout it inline with your rear breaks.

search google for staging break and youll get better options than k sport.
I have no experience with the k sport, but I still wont trust that company.

Yeah i was just speaking in general of an upgraded ebrake.. i like the one in the link you put up. how much tho ??

Thanks

 

i want one but its too much for me right now but one day. and deff not k sport as far as e break things go

 

I dunno, youll have to call them. I think its like 100bucks, but youll need some break line bent into the car. I almost thing there would be enough line when you disconnect the line from the master to bend into the passenger side and hook back up to the rear of the hand break, and if not, all you did was waste a little time, and you can just cut it off and run you a line out to the rear.

 

unless you are going to spend the money to buy a seperate caliper in the rear i dont recomend this setup. A lot of people i know run them, and i myself have driven cars with them, im not a fan. If you are just into drifting for fun, then you could do whatever you want. BUt if you are into competative driving dont do it unless its done right. Unless you have a different caliper for e brakeing, there is a posiblitiy of locking all brakes (without being able to unlock them) if you use the ebrake in thr wrong sequence. this is something you never want to experience at 70 + mph. Stick with a stock ebrake with good pads, or just run a z32 rear brake setup.

 

I have to disagree on many levels. I have done quit abit of reasearch on this subject recently and I see no way that you can possible lock up all 4 breaks and not be able to unlock them if used in the wrong sequence if you dont rout the lines the dumb way. This is independ on the rear wheels, the fronts are left alone. You may have a stiffer petal feel for the fronts if you hit the foot break while the hydro hand break is depressed but they will just be more responsive than normal and will unlock the second you remove your foot off the break petal.

Also you loose reaction time when using the stock lever. You have to move your hand down, grab the lever, pull it up, and then push it down to release the breaks. With the hydro break setup you can mount it so all you have to do is push forward on an upright lever when you want to lock the rears, as soon as you want them unlocked all you do is let go of the handle (if you have a spring return like you should). I wouldnt go pull back with one because then you have to reach forward to grab the handle and in that amount of time you could have already had the breaks locked with a push forward design. If your in an understeer condition or are wanting to spin on purpos to avoid a spun car every milisecond counts.

And please on the z32 rear break setup being better for drifting. I think its a better setup for parking, but not for when the wheels are spinning at high speeds. Them little drumbs are gahy!

Think about my rear r32 setup (basicially the same as the z32) with the dual piston rear calipers and the 11.7" rotar. THAT is what I want clamping my wheels to stop them. Not some small caliper I retro fitted on the rear rotars or the stock rear calipers of the s13 or the tiny little shoes on the z32 breaks that hate heat.



I dont think your visualizing the setup properly. Think of it like this

master cylender output going to rear breaks----------------hand break---------------rear calipers

NOT
..............................................VVVhand break with its own fluidVV
master cylender---------------------------^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^-----------rear calipers
the one above could actually back feed fluid back into the master causing it to over flow and catch fire or could cause the front breaks to recieve pressure.


With it setup properly you breaks should act completly normal because its like the hand break isnt even there. But when you push the lever it closes off any input from the master and creats rear only breaking. Yes, your fronts will recieve 100% of the foot breaking force if you do happen to use the foot break at that time making the car spin happy if you decide to hit the foot break at that moment but when do you ever hit the foot break and the ebreak at the same time unless your actually trying to spin out, or if your highly skilled and are just trying to get the most angle as possible. I think it makes for a very feasable way to rotate your car 180* fast and since Im wanting to do some gymkhana this year I see the benefits of this breaking system outweighing any possible downfall of it.

 

ok... i didnt even finish reading what you posted because you have no idea what your talking about. clearly you dont drive enough to know the differences between these types of set ups. trust me, this advice is comming from an experienced drifter. yes you can lock em all up, every person i know who runs a hydro has locked them up at least once. The research you did was probably full of opinions by other people who dont know anything. trust me when i tell you i know what im talking about.
as for the z32 set up, its getting popular once agin. Most people upgrade the shoes to project mu for better clamping forces. If you have ever done a demo where you constantly ride the brakes in drift to put down crazy smoke, then take off into a corner like bat out of hell, then you would appreciate a divorced ebrake set up when you grab for your ebrake ( drum ebrake) . regular pads will glaze slightly and not offer the same clamping force.

 

That really irritates me when someone just point blank says "I didnt even read what you said because I dont think you know what your talking about" and then make a further assumption that is outlandish and have no real way of knowing me and ability to back it up such as "I clearly dont drive enough......." I will have you know I have been involved in motorsports as a driver from an early age of 12.
If you cant provide a detailed explanation of why pushing in a hydro ebreak lever that is hooked up inline with the rear breaks will actually lock up the front breaks as well then im just going to write you off as a blow hard.
You say things like "trust me" and "I know what Im talking about" and label yourself as an "experienced drifter", you seem to think you know how much seat time I have had, you dont care to take the time to read a post made by me explaining the different ways they can be setup and why some of them WILL cause bad result. You seem to think you know something about the reasearch I did, what do you have spy ware on my computer? And from the reasearch I did, the people that wrote their findings on hydro ebreak setups also didnt know anything? Wow! You have made yourself out to be very integillant. Im sure everyone is on the edge of their seat waiting for you to post again so they can get smarter and becom a better drifter.

At this point I dont know why Im even typing still, Im sure you got pissed and quit reading after the first 2 sentences. Thats why I can make a comment that I do agree with you on something. If you are left foot breaking and have the rear rotars hot and less effective the drum break (divorced ebrak) is a better thing to use rather than a hydro break due to the drums being there, but Im still going to have that breaking system too, and if I was just doing a manuver that possibly got my rotars hot I would use the cable break. I dont feel that a seperate caliper setup would even benefit you in a hydro ebreak setup as opposed to using the stock calipers during times of hot rotars because the heat is the big thing, little to do with the pad actually glazing.

Something wierd you said as well. Glazed pads not offering the same clamping force? That would be if your break fluid was boiling maybe, but the clamping force should be the same no matter how hot the rotars are or how glazed the pads are. The real problem is there is a layer of gas between a hot rotar and the pads that needs to be expelled or the pads have less contact with the rotar and less friction. Rest assured, they are clamping just as hard as ever.

 

^ Well put... So since the e brake has a cable that just goes to the rear calipers i believe ?

is there a way to T it off ?? Sorry for my ignorance, its just im not to good with breaking systems..

I do plan ok making this a serious drift car. no street driving. If only i started earlier i would take it more seriously.

Is it possible to start it off as a career at 19 ??

I know i need Alotta practice and its probly a huge dream thats sceptical but i wanna see what i can do.

right now since the 240 doesnt run i was thinking of trying to see what i can do with my MK4 ha.

ppl have told me that its not a good drift cuz but ive had lots of fun getting it side ways at about 60.

 

ok...so apperantly i nor any of my other friends know how to build a drift car. hurry up and install your ebrake. When that locking scenario happens to you at a comp, let me know how good of an idea you though it was then. Everyone who runs a hydro ebrake in fd use a seperate caliper. Look at all of the drift cars that come out of australia, they love the hydro brake there, but they do it right. Seperate resivour/master ebrake unit to a seperate caliper. some of the guys even use a line lock so that they can use it to park, i thought that was pretty sick. have fun.

 

Using a hydro break for parking is a dumb idea. Can you guess what happens if you happen to have a small leak in your caliper or line? Your car takes it where ever gravity decides to. Yall do it your way, ill do it mine.

 

race cars...we are talking race cars....let us know how you like your ebrake....post up in car/ slash outside vids so we can see how your set up is better than every one elses. Ill stick to my cable ebrake, and if you want, ill shoot some in car stuff for you as well, incase you want to compare reaction times and what not. PM me if you do post up vids.

 

Looks sick, do it, but do it right

 

wouldn't a simple check valve not allow pressure to "possibly" feed back in the master cylinder? If you use a cable brake how often do you have to replace the cable? Hydraulic I know is the way to go but my buddy has been telling me the same thing about using a separate rear caliper. I guess you are moving fluid when you engage (depress) the piston in to the cylinder(hydraulic ebrake) then that pressure is going to want find the easiest way out, which will mainly push on the caliper piston... but you can see that with out a valve to completely disallow fluid to feed back to the master cyilider... I just don't know, ok ok Lets say you notice your speed is to high to enter the turn so you apply the brakes then you hit the ebrake to enter, all that should happen is pressure is added to the rear caliper pistons and also feed backs to the master cylinder causing braking force on the pedal to change, requiring you to press hard on the brakes to get the same pressure on the front calipers, correct? But if theres a check valve you first have to over come the pressure thats applied by the master to close off the valve but then wouldn't that be like if all a sudden the rear calipers freeze up and you'll still have to apply more force to the brake pedal to get the front brakes to work.... damn now if your off the brakes and apply the hydraulic ebrake the pressure should go to the calipers and also feed back to the master, but as long that seals are good the fluid should not be able to oooooooooooh it all depends on how the master cylinder is designed. So if the seals do not seal a 100% there is a possibility to apply the front brakes with the ebrake, now also if the rear brake cylinder is in a certain spot in relation to the front cylinder (in the master cylinder) then front brakes can also be applied. Cool my brain still works lol now to drink a beer

 

Feedback? it should only push fluid to the Rear Calipers, not back to the MC. Alot of ppl run this set-up w/o complaining about any type of feedback...



Do any of these have a click/locking mech. like the stock one?

 

well I just think that pressure wants to go some where, the lines are connected to the master and then to the calipers. with the another cylinder in between forcing pressure in the line it should go both ways not just to the calipers. so I would think as long as that pressure can not find a way in to the "other" hydraulic system (front) there should be no problem.

I heard that the K-sport system has a locking mechanism that allows you to lock it in place for parking, but with all ebrakes you can not trust them as soon as the pads/shoes cool they reduce their size then theres not enough pressure/COF to hold the vehicle in place, always leave your car in gear when parked! but I'm no engineer.

 

It's an inline MC, when it is being ingauged it blocks of the line from the main MC and applies hydro pressure to the rear calipers...

and yeah your correct about the ksport locking mech., it a toothed locking bar design, aluminum so they don't recommend leaving to latched over a set period of time with pressure on the system ???

It shouldn't be affected that much by the thermal expansion of the brake fluid and pads/shoes... but what the heck, better safe than sorry, right?

 

hmmm I might just get one and try it out, what does the k-sport hydraulic ebrake come with? will have to buy lines and 2 Ts to connect it?

 

Umm... just the hydro brake w/MC as pictured above and they have SS flex line avalable also that should just "hook right up".

Just a flairing tool, pipe cutter(pizza wheel), and correct size brake line fitting for the SS lines(if you have to custom fab it)... Run it inline before the splitter for the left and right rear calipers... No T's required

 

Now to get it to fit under the Center console w/o anyone knowing...

 

They mount it in the same location as stock but the weld a reinforcement plate also

 

hmmm do you know of a write up?

 

Not right off hand, but I found out a local metal/scrap yard can be your best friend when you need to make s**t for the car (adapter mounts for racing seats to factory sliders, in my case, still need to shim them)

Umm... as far as reenforcing the mount area for the hydro brake, set the assembly where you want it, drill the mount holes(if needed), get a section of sheet steel +1 in. Longer x +1 in.Wider x 0.125-0.250in thickness and drill the needed mount holes, get some hardware (i.e factory bolts or grade 5-8 and nuts w/ same thread pitch and sofourth... tack the nuts to the steel sheet w/ the hydro slightly mounted in the car, remove the hydro assembly and tack all sides of the nuts (not too heavy though)...

If the steel sheet wont fit in the tunnel at the mount point, take a propane(rather use oxyacetylene) torch and heat the sheet at the affected area and beat it into submission, let it air cool or use a damp cloth to quench the metal, after it cools, paint that b**ch and bolt everything down

hydro mount
--------------- <<Trans tunnel
steel sheet (backing plate)

you can also drill some extra holes in the steel plate to "plug" weld the backing plate to the trans tunnel

hmm... I'll see about finding a write-up on the pumbing

 

awesome answer bro, I just welded my first time the other day and it's FUN! It's like drawing with metal, I love it! I'll be sending you a pm about welding. Let us know and any one else whos seen a write up.

 

Gotta love it!! Call me crazy, it has a great smell too and watch out for black boogers, funny as hell if your not use to it...

What welding setup did you use? The ones you listed are pretty good kits for the price, the server logged me off @1ish AM when I was replying, so I lost a bunch for the info for it:mad2:

Wait till you start using a plasma cutter to cut metal, it's really like writing on/in the metal



Sorry if this was a semi-thread jack,

Tim P.

 

i want a brake like this one. and i like the location they mount it in too
POWERED BY MAX: インテリア Interior Parts and Accessories

 

Yeah they virtualy the same setup and they said just about the same thing as far as install wise, just fewer words... Not to mention they have great shots of the plumbing so you get the jist of it...

 

yes they do look similar, but the PSM brake uses a wilwood cylinder, & ksports is a no name. thats the difference to me. plus, i just figure if ksports coilovers are crappy, their handbrake cant be all that much better

 

Haha true true, looking at it from a design/engineering POV the ksport also has a weak point in the bracket design... **cough cough** reenforce the the lock latch and handle pivot areas...

 

yeah im def getting a psm or making my own.