Nissan 240SX Forums banner

Whats the best way to vent heat

11K views 43 replies 17 participants last post by  Antihero_sx  
#1 ·
in my 1990 the only air inlet is from the bottom.Theres no top vent " witch is stupid because theres blocked off inlets at the top of the bumper by the manufacturer" so crazy amounts of heat get trapped in the bay and i can only imagine how much gets sucked into the intake and in the summer when its 95 out holy HEAT!!." FYI I dont have a stock airbox i have a cone filter on the end of the stock intake tube.I open the hood after driving and get blasted by heat. "Hot engine/Hot air intake =Cant be good = loss of power witch i noticed dramaticly" so i did a hood prop to let some heat out and it seems to be doin ok the only thing is theres nothing pushing the heat out because there no top end vent.So i removed the driver side head light and that worked GREAT!! hence the intake filter is right behind it!! and at night i noticed a nice power gain just from sucking in colder air. the only thing is a cop pulled me over because i had a headlight missing so i put it back on.I even have the sleepy eye thing goin on but thats more looks then vent because the dam light is blocking the air flow through the holes.So like the old 80`s song goes "THE HEAT IS ON!!:mad2:

So is there any other way to vent the heat besides hood prop and removing a headlight?:scratch:
 
#2 ·
If you are trying to get cool air to the intake, buy a cold air intake. Venting heat out of the engine bay will not really solve the problem of your intake sucking in warm air because the filter is on the same side as your exhaust manifold. You could also build a custom cold air box or heat shield out of sheetmetal, to protect the filter. If you want to vent heat out of the engine bay, you can buy an aftermarket front bumper with a bigger front inlet or a vented aftermarket hood.

By the way, I am pretty sure all of the S13 bumpers only have vents on the bottom (the pig nose might be different, I'm not sure). Center vents didn't really show up until the S14, and even then, not much air goes through them, into the engine bay.
 
#6 ·
yea ill probably just stick with the hood prop and custom a heat sheild between the filter and exhaust manifold. i guess theres no way to toatally escape heat.I mean even the "cold air intakes" still end up in the drivers side front corner by all the heat so im not sure why they call those cold air intakes unless you ram it. but yea ima just try and sheild it as best as i can i have a full welding/sheetmetal shop so its possible.

and yea thats crazy theres only bottom vents for the pignose.. kinda doesnt make sense because heat rises. id get a aftermarket bumper but i like the stock pig so once again "THE HEAT IS ON" lol
 
#4 ·
Dont waste your money on a cold air intake. Spacing the hood works well.
Ummm, yeah, he said he already did that, but it sounds like he is trying to get cooler air to his intake, not just cool the underhood temps. Gapping the hood won't do a whole lot to feed cool air to the intake. Plus, many people will debate whether or not spacing the hood will actually cool underhood temps, or not.
 
#5 ·
if your handy with doing work yourself, there are write ups on DIY hood vents using your stock hood. they end up looking pretty good too
 
#21 ·
ive been looking for these diy hood vent and i cannot find them. can you post a link to help me out. btw, i dont know if im typing inside the search area correctly. but im putting "diy hood vents, hood vents, etc." anyway, i would appreciate the help.
 
#7 ·
Actually, most true cold air intakes put the filter down in the fender somewhere, out of the engine bay. A warm air intake or short ram intake stays in the engine bay. A true cold air will still suffer from some heat soak through the tubing, but this can easily be solved with heat wrap of some kind.
 
#10 ·
yea thats what i thought, my brother has a honda civic and his is stuffed through a hold in the fender front area. not sure about the s13 though id have to cut a hole but i dont wanna tear things up over some cold air. i plan on boosting soon anyway so this is just temporary becasuse its been warm latly.but i shit you not when i removed the headlight there was a big throttle response difference from sucking up outside air mainly at night
 
#9 ·
Here's something I hadn't thought of until now. If you search a little harder than I did, you can find single ones, just for the left side headlight cover, and for cheaper. I am pretty sure you can find them on ebay.

Image
 
#12 ·
Well after all said and done i didnt get those carbon headlight vents.But i got the engine bay pretty well ventelated.Got hood prop goin, i cut open those 2 blocked off vents up at the top of the bumper and made a heatsheild around the intake blocking header and radiator heat.
 
#15 ·
Go into O'reillyes and get a Murray 160* universal thermostat.
Drill a weep hole and install it at 12 o'clock.
Flush cooling system and run either 100% water or a very small anti freeze mix (10%-15%)
Keep the clutch fan and shroud

I've never "needed" to upgrade my cooling, even with spirited driving and high ambient temps. Just run a lower temp thermostat and your KA will run nice and cool.
 
#16 ·
honestly i wouldnt even bother with trying to drop your temp. unless your getting extremely hot like way above normal temps then its not going to give you any noticeable gain. save your money and use it towards a SR swap if your looking for more HP.
my stock KA tricks for a bit more power was (electric fan conversion,intake,3 degree timming advance,under drive pulley) i gained about 20hp thats it. the electric fan and timming advance gives you way more than any intake or heat removal you can do. if your worried about getting cool air into your intake just build a makeshift duct system with dryer vent stuff. have it scoop air from the loer part of the bumper up into your cone filter on your intake.

for all its worth i wouldnt even worry about the whopping 3hp you wont notice from it.

man up and save the cash for suspension or a swap. more important stuff than dropping underhood temps a few degrese.
 
#17 ·
Bumping timing doesn't do a damn thing. We dyno'd a stock rebuild SOHC with stock timing, then dyno'd it with out the P/S belt, and 20* of timing only to gain 1hp....... Cooling isn't really about making power (though it does help) its more of a reliability/durability mod. The three main reasons of engine failure are heat, revs, and lack of lubrication.
Btw, an E-fan will do nothing but increase electrical load (on an already low amp alt) and raise temps, trust me I used to run an E-fan.
And who said anything about an SR swap? The OP wants lower engine/under hood temps.
 
#22 ·
well i must have a magical KA then. almost everyone i know has swapped out thier clutch fan for a Efan. i noticed a tad bit more torque and it revs a bit quicker. the timming seemed to make it run smoother but that could just be in my head. i thought he was wanting to gain more power by lowering intake temps thats why i said it was kind of pointless because it wouldnt gain enough to notice anything thats why i was talking about swapping. i have never once had a problem with heat under the hood and i beat the living shit out of my KA from 150k-245k stock everything even timming chain. the Efan never once made my voltage jump or make my car hotter. i kept a close eye on my voltage and tested the load when i installed it as well as kept a good eye on my temps. for the most part now with the koyo rad it never really comes on anyway. as for revs i was always on my limmiter and hitting 7100 all day but i also maintained my KA like it was going out of style. good oil and contantly checking it (very important in a KA)

here is a video of my KA when it had 220k on it and i drove it like this all the time
YouTube - DMVM Chico Video

last night time video was open diff too :tongue4:

sorry not thread jacking but just saying what i have done and proven since 01. that video was 05-06 i think. alot of the video was old too.
 
#18 ·
i proped my hood the other day.

a lil background...
s14 motor in s13
no thermostat.
my car(after a mile or 5 min of idling)
sat at roughly 165ish degrees with air temps of around 95-100...
i proped the hood(just a 1/4 inch(and gonna add another 1/4 for looks)) and my temp today after driving 40 miles barly broke 130...
i might have to put a thermo in.(dohc front end tho) i thought about cutting out those inserts on my old pignose... just take a dremal or a razor to it...
 
#19 ·
newbs, shit.

You want to vent heat? make a damn vent. I have one in my hood, like 10" wide. Summer or winter, you can see the heat waves rising from it. Any time its cool out or im driving down in elevation, my motor will run on the first line. Other cool thing about hood vents are that they removee some of the low pressure under the front of your car and put it on top, through the engine bay, cooling it. Also yeah, move your intake to the non-exhaust side of the engine bay.
 
#24 ·
newbs make me lol. if your car is stock there is no reason to vent your hook ( other then looks), and if your serious of making your car run cooler get duel fans or a push fan
 
#33 ·
i dont have a thermo because my old s14 sat at 220 degrees with the heat on and all the fans blowing with a 160 thermo in the summer here last year. and this year we are setting record highs. i want the car to be around 165ish...
i am gonna get a thermo and put it in for winter uses... i dont have a iacv or iacr so in Cold weather my car wont idle for a min... the otherday after playin with a vette and chirpin 5th(very lil chirp but still went crrp) and maxxing out the mph i was at 190ish will doing 140+mph but it was EXtreamly hot out.

for the oil lubing part^^^^^^ i always let the car sit for a min or 2 before i move... i might be getting a free hood. and if i do ima cut it up to add a scoop to it...
 
#34 ·
First off... get rid of the cone filter in the engine bay, intakes like that are half assed. Or make a box around it and plumb cold air to it with a hose.

Make a duct to funnel air from the front opening of the bumper to the radiator, that will promote more airflow.
 
#36 ·
Yes ^ and that issue gets much more strict on newer EFI systems. If the ECU notices a drop in temps, it will trigger the check engine light and you'll end up loosing power. Older ECU's are a little more tolerant, but a drastic change in temp can effect operation.
Btw, for anyone who doesn't know. The stock KA24E thermostat is 170F.
 
#42 ·
Wow, at this point I'm done trying to have an intelligent debate with you. Feel free to post a response, but I'm not going to continue this nonsense in this thread. Seriously with comments like this -
"your lucky i just fucked up and deleted everything i was writing." - your only making yourself look bad. A long time ago I posted a copy of the "Oil Bible". I suggest you find it and read it.
 
#43 ·
ha. do you have any more links to stuff everyone has already seen?
you should check out bobistheoilguy.com
and i agree, your brain is hopeless

also an amendment here, my elevation is over 4k feet. Which plays a big role in the way that i build my car.

but i'll accept your withdrawl? come on, arguing is fun dude. bring the knowledge
 
#44 ·
Not sure how some people got "running cold" outa this thread.Its impossible to run a cold engine unless you have a couple freezers under the hood and even then all the friction would create heat.But it is possible to run a warm engine instead of a blazing hot one just by venting some heat.With my car the only concern was venting heat away from the intake since hot air is a lot thinner and cooler air more dense creating more power.I tryed running a sealed off hood with no heat sheild or prop versus a proped hood and heat shield with the drivers side headlight removed and im not trippin there deffinantly was a difference in torque.