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Whats the best way to vent heat

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#21 ·
boxfresh said:
if your handy with doing work yourself, there are write ups on DIY hood vents using your stock hood. they end up looking pretty good too
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ive been looking for these diy hood vent and i cannot find them. can you post a link to help me out. btw, i dont know if im typing inside the search area correctly. but im putting "diy hood vents, hood vents, etc." anyway, i would appreciate the help.
 
#22 ·
*ka24e* said:
Bumping timing doesn't do a damn thing. We dyno'd a stock rebuild SOHC with stock timing, then dyno'd it with out the P/S belt, and 20* of timing only to gain 1hp....... Cooling isn't really about making power (though it does help) its more of a reliability/durability mod. The three main reasons of engine failure are heat, revs, and lack of lubrication.
Btw, an E-fan will do nothing but increase electrical load (on an already low amp alt) and raise temps, trust me I used to run an E-fan.
And who said anything about an SR swap? The OP wants lower engine/under hood temps.
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well i must have a magical KA then. almost everyone i know has swapped out thier clutch fan for a Efan. i noticed a tad bit more torque and it revs a bit quicker. the timming seemed to make it run smoother but that could just be in my head. i thought he was wanting to gain more power by lowering intake temps thats why i said it was kind of pointless because it wouldnt gain enough to notice anything thats why i was talking about swapping. i have never once had a problem with heat under the hood and i beat the living shit out of my KA from 150k-245k stock everything even timming chain. the Efan never once made my voltage jump or make my car hotter. i kept a close eye on my voltage and tested the load when i installed it as well as kept a good eye on my temps. for the most part now with the koyo rad it never really comes on anyway. as for revs i was always on my limmiter and hitting 7100 all day but i also maintained my KA like it was going out of style. good oil and contantly checking it (very important in a KA)

here is a video of my KA when it had 220k on it and i drove it like this all the time
YouTube - DMVM Chico Video

last night time video was open diff too :tongue4:

sorry not thread jacking but just saying what i have done and proven since 01. that video was 05-06 i think. alot of the video was old too.
 
#24 ·
newbs make me lol. if your car is stock there is no reason to vent your hook ( other then looks), and if your serious of making your car run cooler get duel fans or a push fan
 
#26 ·
fonix36 said:
newbs make me lol. if your car is stock there is no reason to vent your hook ( other then looks), and if your serious of making your car run cooler get duel fans or a push fan
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Yes. Better cooling can still help a stock motor, but it will not increase power in the way everyone thinks.
 
#27 ·
*ka24e* said:
There is such a thing as running too cold.
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You blow my mind every day

a cooler engine makes more power, regardless of what way it is..

Cooler oil promotes longevity and higher oil pressure, which means better valve performce for us with hydraulic lifters
Cooler coolant keeps your cylinder head much cooler to help prevent knocking, longerates the life of your plugs and injectors(which really wont matter in short term), and generally takes less of a toll on rubber parts and freeze plugs.
Cooler underhood temperatures decrease the intake temp, and increase the life of all the rubber parts that are close to sources of heat
Cooler metal means harder metal, so less wear will take place, as long as your lubricating properly as well
And dont forget that electric current runs allll thourough your engine bay, and your engine. And heat=resistance, which causes poorer electrical performance. you may think .01 ohms is nothing, but when your motor is trying to fire 4 spark spark plugs, alternate 4 fuel injectors, collect data from numerous sensors 2000 times a minute.. it does cause problems. The little ground straps atteatching the motor to the chassis are to keep current out of the bearings, which would cause electrolosis and rustification.

When all the points add up, even if your only one point ahead of the other guy, your ahead. take advantage of the easy stuff
 
#29 · (Edited)
mikethebiker said:
You blow my mind every day

a cooler engine makes more power, regardless of what way it is..

Cooler oil promotes longevity and higher oil pressure, which means better valve performce for us with hydraulic lifters
Cooler coolant keeps your cylinder head much cooler to help prevent knocking, longerates the life of your plugs and injectors(which really wont matter in short term), and generally takes less of a toll on rubber parts and freeze plugs.
Cooler underhood temperatures decrease the intake temp, and increase the life of all the rubber parts that are close to sources of heat
Cooler metal means harder metal, so less wear will take place, as long as your lubricating properly as well
And dont forget that electric current runs allll thourough your engine bay, and your engine. And heat=resistance, which causes poorer electrical performance. you may think .01 ohms is nothing, but when your motor is trying to fire 4 spark spark plugs, alternate 4 fuel injectors, collect data from numerous sensors 2000 times a minute.. it does cause problems. The little ground straps atteatching the motor to the chassis are to keep current out of the bearings, which would cause electrolosis and rustification.

When all the points add up, even if your only one point ahead of the other guy, your ahead. take advantage of the easy stuff
Click to expand...
I never said a cooler running engine doesn't make more power, I said you can run an engine "too" cold. An EFI engine determines how much fuel an engine should get based on temp, among other things. When an engine is warming up (cold start) it will run rich to keep it running. When an engine heats up, it leans the A/F mixture to obtain a stoich A/F ratio. Running an engine while the ECU thinks its still warming up does nothing but burn gas, dilute the oil with gas (rich mixture) and lose power.
Oil. When you start your car up in the morning and it has 10w-30 in the oil pan, your oil will be 10w, at 212*f it will be a 30w oil and obviously offer more protection. There's also such a thing as oil sheering. Ever wonder why manufacture says driving less than 5-10min is a severe driving condition? Cold oil will not protect your metal parts as well as warm/hot oil will, and the engine will literally "squeeze" the oil right off the bearings and touch the surface of the metal....not good.
Btw, cooler metal means greater clearances. This is why we gap our piston rings. Every metal part in an engine expands when it gets warm, and such material is designed and spec'd specifically for this. Combine thin oil (cold oil) with loose clearances and your just asking for a spun bearing.
 
#33 ·
i dont have a thermo because my old s14 sat at 220 degrees with the heat on and all the fans blowing with a 160 thermo in the summer here last year. and this year we are setting record highs. i want the car to be around 165ish...
i am gonna get a thermo and put it in for winter uses... i dont have a iacv or iacr so in Cold weather my car wont idle for a min... the otherday after playin with a vette and chirpin 5th(very lil chirp but still went crrp) and maxxing out the mph i was at 190ish will doing 140+mph but it was EXtreamly hot out.

for the oil lubing part^^^^^^ i always let the car sit for a min or 2 before i move... i might be getting a free hood. and if i do ima cut it up to add a scoop to it...
 
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#34 ·
First off... get rid of the cone filter in the engine bay, intakes like that are half assed. Or make a box around it and plumb cold air to it with a hose.

Make a duct to funnel air from the front opening of the bumper to the radiator, that will promote more airflow.
 
#35 ·
mikethebiker said:
You blow my mind every day

a cooler engine makes more power, regardless of what way it is..

Cooler oil promotes longevity and higher oil pressure, which means better valve performce for us with hydraulic lifters
Cooler coolant keeps your cylinder head much cooler to help prevent knocking, longerates the life of your plugs and injectors(which really wont matter in short term), and generally takes less of a toll on rubber parts and freeze plugs.
Cooler underhood temperatures decrease the intake temp, and increase the life of all the rubber parts that are close to sources of heat
Cooler metal means harder metal, so less wear will take place, as long as your lubricating properly as well
And dont forget that electric current runs allll thourough your engine bay, and your engine. And heat=resistance, which causes poorer electrical performance. you may think .01 ohms is nothing, but when your motor is trying to fire 4 spark spark plugs, alternate 4 fuel injectors, collect data from numerous sensors 2000 times a minute.. it does cause problems. The little ground straps atteatching the motor to the chassis are to keep current out of the bearings, which would cause electrolosis and rustification.

When all the points add up, even if your only one point ahead of the other guy, your ahead. take advantage of the easy stuff
Click to expand...
Point of the matter is the car is tuned to run at a specific temp range from the factory. If you make the car run colder (or hotter) then you will not be operating withing the original fuel and timing maps for optimal power. So you are not going to automatically gain power if you make the engine run at less degrees
 
#36 ·
Yes ^ and that issue gets much more strict on newer EFI systems. If the ECU notices a drop in temps, it will trigger the check engine light and you'll end up loosing power. Older ECU's are a little more tolerant, but a drastic change in temp can effect operation.
Btw, for anyone who doesn't know. The stock KA24E thermostat is 170F.
 
#37 ·
Joel 180 said:
Point of the matter is the car is tuned to run at a specific temp range from the factory. If you make the car run colder (or hotter) then you will not be operating withing the original fuel and timing maps for optimal power. So you are not going to automatically gain power if you make the engine run at less degrees
Click to expand...
which brings up the matter, that engines are also tuned to run with specific exhaust, intakes, emission controls, fuel pressures... the argument that you make less power is thrown out the window if any other modification is done to your car. For maximum power, you need to be tuned, we all agree on that. But having excess heat will ruin a lot of things. A motor makes plenty of heat to keep itself warm.

Here, were talking the argument, power vs heat. power is higher, in the high rpm ranges. MUCH more heat is made when your driving hard, and the only time we really concern ourselves with power is if were essentially driving in upper half of the rpm range. If you can make a car run cold over 3k rom, then you have proved me wrong. cooler air combusts with more power. cooler oil lubricates better. If you think im running worse because my motor is cooled properly, then you better not EVER drive your car before it is completely warmed up.

You want to make more power, you better cool your fucking engine. bottom line
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
mikethebiker said:
which brings up the matter, that engines are also tuned to run with specific exhaust, intakes, emission controls, fuel pressures... the argument that you make less power is thrown out the window if any other modification is done to your car. For maximum power, you need to be tuned, we all agree on that. But having excess heat will ruin a lot of things. A motor makes plenty of heat to keep itself warm.

Here, were talking the argument, power vs heat. power is higher, in the high rpm ranges. MUCH more heat is made when your driving hard, and the only time we really concern ourselves with power is if were essentially driving in upper half of the rpm range. If you can make a car run cold over 3k rom, then you have proved me wrong. cooler air combusts with more power. cooler oil lubricates better. If you think im running worse because my motor is cooled properly, then you better not EVER drive your car before it is completely warmed up.

You want to make more power, you better cool your fucking engine. bottom line
Click to expand...
EXACLY^. the best point made in this thread.

i dont think any moving thing in this world runs better hot then it would cool and that being, humans, computer prosessors, car engines e.t.c.
 
#39 ·
*ka24e* said:
I never said a cooler running engine doesn't make more power, I said you can run an engine "too" cold. An EFI engine determines how much fuel an engine should get based on temp, among other things. When an engine is warming up (cold start) it will run rich to keep it running. When an engine heats up, it leans the A/F mixture to obtain a stoich A/F ratio. Running an engine while the ECU thinks its still warming up does nothing but burn gas, dilute the oil with gas (rich mixture) and lose power.
Oil. When you start your car up in the morning and it has 10w-30 in the oil pan, your oil will be 10w, at 212*f it will be a 30w oil and obviously offer more protection. There's also such a thing as oil sheering. Ever wonder why manufacture says driving less than 5-10min is a severe driving condition? Cold oil will not protect your metal parts as well as warm/hot oil will, and the engine will literally "squeeze" the oil right off the bearings and touch the surface of the metal....not good.
Btw, cooler metal means greater clearances. This is why we gap our piston rings. Every metal part in an engine expands when it gets warm, and such material is designed and spec'd specifically for this. Combine thin oil (cold oil) with loose clearances and your just asking for a spun bearing.
Click to expand...
and regarding the oil point here, your "oil sheering" threat, is not going to happen in a running motor, but potentially at start-up if your in a colder environment. Oil shear happens with low viscosity oils, at cold temperatures. you WILL NOT find temperatures, in a running motor, in any typical environment, that are low enough to cause oil shear. pretty much any oil you put in your car(you can leave out the W, because that is a winter rating, and is not relevant) will have a flashpoint of somewhere between 400 and 450 degrees F. that is the temperature when oil turn into vapor, i.e. high oil consumption, and lots of oil vapor in your combustion chamber. Cylinder walls, pistons, con-rods, all see these temperatures. If you dont want your oil turning into vapor, then you best keep your internal engine parts as cool as possible.

I noticed you like to critisize my techniques. It seems to me, your thinking potentially i am cooling my oil enough to cause oil sheer at driving temperature? hahahahaha.
now that i got that out.. no, you can not cool engine oil enough to cause sheer in a running motor, unless you have a refrigerator or something i guess.
 
#40 · (Edited)
mikethebiker said:
cooler oil lubricates better.
If you think im running worse because my motor is cooled properly, then you better not EVER drive your car before it is completely warmed up.
You want to make more power, you better cool your fucking engine. bottom line
Click to expand...
Wrong. Cooler oil lubricates better to a certain point, but cold oil will not protect as good as hot oil. Like I said in a previous post, the last number of an oil rating (10w-30) will not be a 30 weight viscosity until 212f.
It's also a general rule of thumb to not run your car hard until you have properly warmed the engine oil and coolant temp to operating temps. This gives the oil a higher viscosity and better protection for moving parts. A cooler engine does not automatically mean its a more powerful engine. Did you look at the link 240kid posted?

mikethebiker said:
and regarding the oil point here, your "oil sheering" threat, is not going to happen in a running motor, but potentially at start-up if your in a colder environment. Oil shear happens with low viscosity oils, at cold temperatures. you WILL NOT find temperatures, in a running motor, in any typical environment, that are low enough to cause oil shear
Click to expand...
You obviously have no clue to what oil shearing is...... oil sheering does not happen in a running motor?, lol???
Oil sheering is when the oil molecules are "cut" down resulting in lower viscosity numbers, and this obviously happens when a motor is spinning. If your engine oil has a low HT/HS number and your using a 10w-30, your only going to reduce this number the more the oil sheer's. Sheering has nothing to do with how cold your oil is, oil can sheer at any temp. High temps, low temps and anything in between, and adding revolutions (2,000rpm vs 4,000rpm) will increase sheer as well.
Please, stop posting bs info. Unless you can show some dyno proof that an engine makes more power colder (again, check 240kids post) its not going to accomplish anything getting on here are arguing about it. Do some more research.
 
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