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unreal's S14/Build thread

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Discussion starter · #1,921 ·
fakingdeath said:
Get it now.

But ya that Fusion stuff is good shit on plastics, but like I said and with any paint work, the better the prep the better the end result. Sanding, sanding, sanding and a good cleaning.
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Got it.

Personally the lip is in pretty shoddy condition anyways, so im not worried about perfect looking prep. Just going to give it a little gritwork, some primer, and the flattest black i can find. Gloss just reveals the cracks and uneven paint that the lip has (im too lazy to sand it off - too much work) The lip looked best when it was covered in grey primer. It hid all the imperfections lol.
 
Discussion starter · #1,922 ·
Went to the track today (in full street trim - no weight removed) and ran some decent times. Had to get used to my cars recent "peppiness" when launching from a standstill. I lined up and launched at about 3.5-4k and straight up LIT the tires. 1st gear almost bounced off the limiter :) My 1st run was pretty meh, i spun like crazy and missed 3rd. ended up running a 17.4@79. 2nd run i spun again, and ran a 16.8@84 with a 2.55 60ft. 3rd was my best of the night with a 16.1@86 with a 2.3 60ft and 4th run was 17.3@82mph with a 2.8 60ft.

This was with my usual list of mods, but a leaky OBX header, bad alignment, street PSI in all tires, full weight, bad subframe/diff bushings (clunk clunk and lots of wheelhop) and stock ECU, etc. Next time i go out im running the 235s. And hopefully i can get a new header installed by the end of the season. Im sure im losing a lot of power. I believe with some sticky tires, and the fixed leak, i can trap 89-90mph. If not, i'll come back in the spring with JWT ECU, WOT BOX, and solid diff/subframe bushings...

Also i need a way to get the heat off of the intake. Was thinking of some gold foil, and wrapping the future DC headers with some header wrap,, but not sure on good brands. Any suggestions?
 
#1,923 ·
As far as header wrap there 99% the same IMO. They all use the same material AFAIK.
Also you should look into Nistune instead of JWT. $100 more and you could be tuning your own shiz.
 
Discussion starter · #1,924 ·
Scoot said:
As far as header wrap there 99% the same IMO. They all use the same material AFAIK.
Also you should look into Nistune instead of JWT. $100 more and you could be breaking your own shiz.
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fixed. :) I dont think i'd trust myself with Nistune :( that and i would have to convert to OBD1 ECU since Nistune doesnt offer an OBD2 solution.

My JWT idea stems from obtaining a used one for cheap, sending it to JWT to get it reflashed for 100, and Profit. The KA-T guys are alllways selling em. Just gotta get lucky. Maybe i'll land myself an obd2 one...

or i say fuck it, and convert to OBD1 ecu until my next inspection ;)
 
#1,925 ·
All header wraps are NOT created equal.

Tomei and some vendors still ship fiberglass wrap. Hence my day+ of /itchitchitchitchitch.

DEI's normal wrap is what I used on the Tomei manifold, I also used it on the STi. It's great. Soak, wrap, tie, dry, coat. Yum.

You also put on the silicone sealant after it's dry to really seal in heat and protect the wrap from the elements.

DEI also has a Titanium branded wrap now that does NOT need to be coated (says not to IIRC) and coats better.

Go look back through my pics/fb to see the wrap and all.
 
Discussion starter · #1,926 ·
BoostinIX said:
All header wraps are NOT created equal.

Tomei and some vendors still ship fiberglass wrap. Hence my day+ of /itchitchitchitchitch.

DEI's normal wrap is what I used on the Tomei manifold, I also used it on the STi. It's great. Soak, wrap, tie, dry, coat. Yum.

You also put on the silicone sealant after it's dry to really seal in heat and protect the wrap from the elements.

DEI also has a Titanium branded wrap now that does NOT need to be coated (says not to IIRC) and coats better.

Go look back through my pics/fb to see the wrap and all.
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Good stuff boostin. Im not sure if i need to wrap the header since im N/A. Plus the DC piece is already ceramic coated. Its going to be a few weeks, but i should have the new header in my hands by mid-october at the latest. And mayyybe one last 1/4 run before the temps get too cold.
 
#1,928 ·
The wrap I used on my header was the DEI Titanium stuff, and like Casey said; you don't use the spray sealant on it. You can however use dabs of copper RTV to adhere it to the exhaust you're covering. Casey tells me it's ghetto, but I don't care.

Also.... the TI wrap shit is MUCH less itchy, but I'd still use gloves if possible and a long sleeve t-shirt.
 
#1,929 ·
Haha yeah, they've gotten a lot better, but if you ever doubt it, dip the wraps in water for the soak and watch all the fibers come out in what would have been your skin.
 
Discussion starter · #1,932 ·
Wow havent updated this thread in a while...

Got the rear 5lug in with a few friends of mine. HOLY SHIT it was a PITA...Just a heads up for anyone doing this job:

1st: Do the obvious, like unbolting the caliper (14mm) , the caliper bracket (17mm i think), the axle nut (36mm), and the bolts in back of the hub (19mm)

- Unbolt the rear toe/traction/RUCA from the hub side.

- Use a hub puller to push the axle away from the hub (the step above makes this cake - otherwise the axle wont move anywhere after a certain point)

- Remove the LCA bolts (leave the balljoint connected) and take the whole assembly to be pressed out. We spent a little over 2.5hr trying to hammer the hub off from the axle housing/knuckle. Let me tell you that it was IMPOSSIBLE without a press. That sucker was in there TIGHT. Made the most horrific sound when it finally broke free. Only other way would be if you had a sledge hammer and a 3" steel ring to hit the bearing out.)

- Once the old bearing was pressed out of the axle housing the rest was cake. IF i were to do it again it could be done in 1/4 the time. Dont waste your time and engery hammering it, and just take it to get pressed out. Mine were obviously seized solid.

pics of semi-flusness tomorrow...its VERY VERY close (less than 3mm) to the inner fender (unrolled) Going to roll em in the near future and pop a 10mm on there.
 
Discussion starter · #1,935 ·
Scoot said:
You took the knuckle out? All I did was take out the axles and pound out the hubs. Soak them in WD though.

Took out my rear hubs twice in the past month lol.
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I took the knuckle and the LCA assembly out (held together by the ball joint) and had it pressed.

trust me, my hub was NOT coming out with a simple hammer and WD40. Even with the press they resisted a good amount. There was a good layer of rust on the inside of the hub/axle housing surface. Ive heard that some people's hubs pop right off, some need a little hammering, and some (like me) need it pressed. Depends on what straw you draw :)

If you have access to a press, do so. It will save you a LOT of time.

Sleepy_Steve said:
Where are the pics? I'm functionally illiterate.
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look at the last sentence of my post
 
#1,936 ·
I gotcha... I've always wondered how my car stacks up against the herra-frush fanboi's.... I think I wouldn't be too bad in terms of the tire being close to sheet metal in the rear, but I think there's some stupid rule about needing to stretch the tires inside the sheet metal and the rim outside the sheet metal to achieve handling performance I simply do not understand.
 
Discussion starter · #1,937 ·
Sleepy_Steve said:
I gotcha... I've always wondered how my car stacks up against the herra-frush fanboi's.... I think I wouldn't be too bad in terms of the tire being close to sheet metal in the rear, but I think there's some stupid rule about needing to stretch the tires inside the sheet metal and the rim outside the sheet metal to achieve handling performance I simply do not understand.
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ewww i hate stretch. i love having both a beefy tire and wheel, and managing to cram it in the fender while still maintaining "functional" camber.

having a 18x10.5 +0 with a 225/40 tire, and needing 3-4* of camber to fit it (in rear - for example) is retarded. Either get a smaller width wheel or lower the camber and get some widebody flares and throw some 265+ on there :)
 
Discussion starter · #1,939 ·
Scoot said:
265 on a 10.5? 255 is square on a 9.5. I wanna see some 275/285 on a 10.5 :)
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haha, i was thinking off the top of my head.

i mean, i can always save myself and say that its a wide 265* ;)





* For those tire companies that go wide on their sizes...some 265's are actually 275 in other company sizing.
 
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