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Story of my sr20det swap

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Discussion starter · #141 ·
RuskeR said:
:eek:

It's better if I don't keep track of what I'm spending. I'm no where near 15k, but that may change once my car is running and I want it to go faster. :thumbsup
Click to expand...
haha consider that money already spent!
 
Discussion starter · #142 ·
Speaking of money spent, here's the next iteration on this car (assuming it ever runs):

Brakes:
- Skyline R32 GTR front and rear calipers and rotors (rear are shared with z32). The calipers will be getting shipped off to have rebuilt and powdercoated mirror black, so they'll look much nicer than they do now.
- Disc Brakes Australia 4000 series front rotors, 1-pc slotted, vented and balanced. 296mm x 32mm sized.
- Stillen Sport series rear rotors (DBA ones weren't in stock, and these are nearly as good). 297 x 18mm sized, vented and slotted.
- Hawk HPS brake pads all around. Never heard anything bad about these, so they must be good! Would like to upgrade to Bendix ultimates, but unfortunately they dont sell them in this country even though they're made in Mexico by Honeywell.
- Stillen/Goodridge SS braided line brake kits. Need I explain why?

Wheels/tires: (if they ever get here)
- R32 GTR 16" x 8" wheels +28 offset. They were ordered in Febuary and have never arrived. Yay.
- Yokohama AVS ES100 tires, 225/50/16. Best bang for your buck as long as it doesnt rain!

And of course the 5-lug conversion to top it all off and put it together. What's left to buy:
- s14 front ball joints
- z32 rear wheel bearings
- z32 rear ebrake assemblies and ebrake lines
- z31 1-1/16" Nabco brake master cylinder

After that... who knows? Now you know the stats, here are the pics!

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Some sexy stuff right there! Too bad the car doesnt run!
 
#144 ·
dude, i love the fmic setup, i was thinking about mounting one there, or pushing the radiator back to mount one there, but i got lazy and realized its pretty hard to move the ac condensor and all (im keeping ac), so i just bought an fmic kit.

it seems like every time i think up a really cool idea for my car, i get on here and find out that u already did it, lol (the custom oil cooler and oil filter relocation thing also).
 
Discussion starter · #145 ·
golfer17 said:
dude, i love the fmic setup, i was thinking about mounting one there, or pushing the radiator back to mount one there, but i got lazy and realized its pretty hard to move the ac condensor and all (im keeping ac), so i just bought an fmic kit.

it seems like every time i think up a really cool idea for my car, i get on here and find out that u already did it, lol (the custom oil cooler and oil filter relocation thing also).
Click to expand...
hehe thanks! I havent actually done it yet on the car, there are some crucial pieces missing but I think that will be coming next after the brakes and suspension.

hehe who needs AC?
 
#151 · (Edited)
WOW... them DBA's are nice..
The 5k's look cool, it being 2 peace and all

But the 4k are nice.. I might have to look in to them more..

I have 5lug already; I just got my front calipers, but no rotors/pads yet
So I might look in to the DBA's

Fronts ?
4909SL
4909SR

I am not trying to bite off you rexbo.. but just gonna do a little homework on them,
How did u hear about them, and what do you think about them ?
 
#152 ·
Don't you need at least 6" before and 6" after the MAF for a proper blow through setup?

I'm ignoring my windsheild fliud resevoir so I can get some straight piping put in place when I get my piping done tomorrow.

I think I can easily get 6" before/after this way.
 
Discussion starter · #153 ·
sr240dett3 said:
WOW... them DBA's are nice..
The 5k's look cool, it being 2 peace and all

But the 4k are nice.. I might have to look in to them more..

I have 5lug already; I just got my front calipers, but no rotors/pads yet
So I might look in to the DBA's

Fronts ?
4909SL
4909SR

I am not trying to bite off you rexbo.. but just gonna do a little homework on them,
How did u hear about them, and what do you think about them ?
Click to expand...
The reason i went with the 4000 series rotors is pretty much all cost. I got a good deal on them from Stillen, but even then they were a bit pricey. The front DBA rotors were about $160 apiece for the 4000 series and if I wanted to upgrade to the 5000 series the price would have gone to about $280 each. So for the performance that I'm expecting, it was unjustified to bust another couple hundred dollars on something that wouldnt be used to its full potential.

As so how I heard about them, well, I go on Skyline forums a lot to tell the truth. I want a skyline, and the 240 is the next best thing. Also I believe that the Aussies are completely insane and when they build cars they dont mess around. Check out the australian supercar series some time. Anyways, I see DBA brakes on their touring cars, on their 1000hp skylines, and not once did I ever see complaints on the forums about problems with the rotors. People would bitch and whine about pads and fluids, but I never saw a complaint about the rotors.

Plus when I see the manufacturing quality of the rotors, its amazing. Most companies dont take the time to include thermo paint on the rotors. there are 3 stripes of paint that when the rotor reaches a certain core temperature, they change color so its super easy to tell what max temp you're seeing on the track. The casting quality of the rotors is also superb. Normally in the wasted-wax method of casting in sand, you'll get some imperfections and maybe a few sand grains embedded in the cast metal. Not so on these. It appears that who does their castings uses the same sand quality as Garrett uses to cast their turbine and compressor housings, which is amazing for a brake rotor manufacturer. Things like that give me confidence in their engineering ability. Also the fact that they give you so much information on their website that you dont see many other places.

http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/HTML/home_menu.htm

So... I'm happy.

As to the 6" MAFS deal, you may be right. I've heard it before, but I've also seen it work before the way I have it. So pretty much I dont have an answer for you till the car runs.
 
Discussion starter · #155 ·
So it runs.

11 months later it runs! Not very well, but it drives!

here are the problems so far:
1) The car doesn't like to idle, and sounds like a Subaru
2) The O2 sensor is fried
3) *see pictures*
4) On deceleration, it belches white smoke (I think i know why, see pics)
5) My boost gauge and temp. gauge aren't hooked up.
6) Sometimes it hesitates and stumbles on acceleration and DEF. sounds like a subaru when you get on the throttle (i couldnt resist)

So here are the pictures:
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Here's what I found when I initially went to the blow-through setup; the car wouldn't start. As it turns out the valve cover breather (see in the last pic) turns out to be just a giant vacuum leak. Plugging that let the car start, but it still doesnt like starting at all and takes a good 30sec of cranking. After plugging that Tee (with duct tape of course) I found that it would blow out the dipstick (pressurizing the crankcase) and on deceleration would re-create that big vacuum leak and the engine would die. Now that i have them both taped down, here comes the last big problem. On heavy deceleration when there's lots of vacuum in the plenum, the car belches white oil smoke. I think this is because the heavy vacuum is sucking out some of the oil from the valve cover (where it is connected on the plenum side) and burning it, causing the smoke to come out. The solution? I'm thinking of disconnecting the vacuum source from the plenum side, capping it off and just running a breather or catch can to the capped part of the tee. We'll see if it works.

Thats just the immediate problem. Next up, we have the subaru-sounding problem, the idle problem, the stumbling problem, and the startup problem. I think it may be the MAFS. Its the original SOHC MAFS from my '89 KA, and it may have passed its prime days. So, I'm going to replace it and see if the problem gets any better. The startup problem may also be related to the bad o2 sensor. The heater element is burned out due to some bad wiring back when I started the swap just over 2 years ago (jebus! the first post is 8-18-2003!), and I'm fairly sure hurts my cold-startup.

If the MAFS is NOT bad, then my 240subaru may be because the MAFS is only about 3" away from the throttle body, and it is a blow through setup. All the air coming from the intercooler may be so turbulent that the sensor can't get an accurate reading and the fuel map is all messed up. The fix? either go back to the standard setup or switch to a z32 MAFS, or get a standalone and switch to a MAP sensor. Only time will tell.

As so the gauges not hooked up, im just lazy. I'll post again when I replace the sensors and throw on my brakes, which are out for powdercoating right now. Anyone have some spare s14 lower control arms and ball joints, and z32 rear ebrakes?
 
#156 ·
i saw this car in person

it needs a wash, like mine always did
but motor setup is CLEAN
cleanest done swap i have seen yet
plus steve is a gentlemen and a scholar

;)
 
Discussion starter · #158 ·
sdtouge said:
plus steve is a gentlemen and a scholar

;)
Click to expand...
did i mention that i started it 2 minutes AFTER you left?
 
#160 ·
sdtouge said:
started it as in going for a drive?

cuase it started when i was there.
remeber luke was like
zomg haxxor. wrx sounding im so happy

lol
Click to expand...
Hell yeah I was I want my car to sound like a WRX haha!!!
But Steve see what happens when have some motivation to get it running.
Can't wait to see it again
 
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