I can get the clip from the guys for 1800, a red top sr. or i can let him do the entire job for 2800. 1k for the install isn’t that bad but I'm wondering if it's just best to try it myself. I am worried however about the horror stories I hear. So the question is, do I get the clip for 1800 and swap it myself or to pay 2800 and have a shop that stands by there work.
archangel0585
lol i wish it was 2800 then i'd have my own sr, but are you forgeting everything else you need to make your car run?
1. S13 Intercooler Kit $750.00
2. Heavy Throttle S13 Hot IC pipe for Greddy IC kit $ 90.00
3. S13 Greddy 3” Downpipe $ 175.00
4. ACT Street clutch disk, pressure plate $ 325.00
5. Throw out bearing $ 30.00
6. Blow Off Valve (Greddy, Blitz, etc) $ 200.00
7. Walbro in tank fuel pump, hi flow $ 120.00
8. Misc Hoses, Fluids, etc $ 100.00
9. 3" Test Pipe $ 60.00
10. 3" Apexi N1 catback $ 450.00
11. Battery Relocation Kit www.summittracing.com $ 60.00
12. Joe P MBC www.forcedperformance.net $ 50.00
13. Boost Gauge/Air Fuel gauge $ 175.00
14. 14" Electric Fan 3000cfm $ 150.00
15. Filter/adaptor $50.00
~2700, without sr20 engine
The Clip you want
~1800
Swap
~1000
Thats around 5.5 G's and those parts aren't including whatever taxes, shipping or anything, what about your shipping on the engine? If the swaps were 2800 in total almost everyone with a 240 on these forums would be going around with sr's
1. S13 Intercooler Kit $750.00
2. Heavy Throttle S13 Hot IC pipe for Greddy IC kit $ 90.00
3. S13 Greddy 3” Downpipe $ 175.00
4. ACT Street clutch disk, pressure plate $ 325.00
5. Throw out bearing $ 30.00
6. Blow Off Valve (Greddy, Blitz, etc) $ 200.00
7. Walbro in tank fuel pump, hi flow $ 120.00
8. Misc Hoses, Fluids, etc $ 100.00
9. 3" Test Pipe $ 60.00
10. 3" Apexi N1 catback $ 450.00
11. Battery Relocation Kit www.summittracing.com $ 60.00
12. Joe P MBC www.forcedperformance.net $ 50.00
13. Boost Gauge/Air Fuel gauge $ 175.00
14. 14" Electric Fan 3000cfm $ 150.00
15. Filter/adaptor $50.00
~2700, without sr20 engine
The Clip you want
~1800
Swap
~1000
Thats around 5.5 G's and those parts aren't including whatever taxes, shipping or anything, what about your shipping on the engine? If the swaps were 2800 in total almost everyone with a 240 on these forums would be going around with sr's
No really man, this is for my second 240, I totaled my first. However when I had it I was sponsored by next evolution racing, but this guy said he can get the work done for less then my last sponsor. I wear his vinyl on my car he does the swap for 2800. Kind of an advertising discount, It’s also a deal I got since I would be abler to send others from my drift crew to get work from him.
However I am wondering if I should do the sr or since I can get a heavy discount, go ahead and do an rb25. I don’t know the advantages of an rb since it seems to have less baking but any input either way would be great. When I had my last 240 the sr was as exotic as it got, but now the rb seems to be filling that void. It’s just that I don’t like 6’s I prefer to work with turbo 4’s I’m wondering how much fast an rb would be over an sr and how the weight difference would through the 240 off when I auto x. I’m going to be working off an s13 this time instead of an s14, but hey if this guy can do it I’ll let him. He is both an importer and a shop so he is cheapest across the board. It’s just a matter of the engine I want and the set up I prefer. He WILL make an sr run to factory spec (side mount intercooler ect.) for 2800. Then I can drive it for a bit and he’ll work off the running car for power adders. So its more of an “true” platform.
However then there’s the rb……bluntly put it’s not supposed to be there. it’s the equivalent of dropping a vr4 3000gt motor into a gsx. It would be an all or nothing deal. What do you think rb or sr? with the sr I wont have to fabricate every 3rd piece. But then again…isn’t that the fun of it….any input either way. Come on guys let the wild thoughts fly.
However I am wondering if I should do the sr or since I can get a heavy discount, go ahead and do an rb25. I don’t know the advantages of an rb since it seems to have less baking but any input either way would be great. When I had my last 240 the sr was as exotic as it got, but now the rb seems to be filling that void. It’s just that I don’t like 6’s I prefer to work with turbo 4’s I’m wondering how much fast an rb would be over an sr and how the weight difference would through the 240 off when I auto x. I’m going to be working off an s13 this time instead of an s14, but hey if this guy can do it I’ll let him. He is both an importer and a shop so he is cheapest across the board. It’s just a matter of the engine I want and the set up I prefer. He WILL make an sr run to factory spec (side mount intercooler ect.) for 2800. Then I can drive it for a bit and he’ll work off the running car for power adders. So its more of an “true” platform.
However then there’s the rb……bluntly put it’s not supposed to be there. it’s the equivalent of dropping a vr4 3000gt motor into a gsx. It would be an all or nothing deal. What do you think rb or sr? with the sr I wont have to fabricate every 3rd piece. But then again…isn’t that the fun of it….any input either way. Come on guys let the wild thoughts fly.
The SR is very easy to install. I installed mine for the price of my clip + $50 for various fluids. It is a very capable motor that can produce a lot of power.
The RB25 is also a great motor. You will need a custom driveshaft and a afew other things so it will cost a little more money to get it in.
As far as autocross goes, how serious are you? Some people claim that the added weight from the RB doesn't really show up if you setup the car right.
The RB25 is also a great motor. You will need a custom driveshaft and a afew other things so it will cost a little more money to get it in.
As far as autocross goes, how serious are you? Some people claim that the added weight from the RB doesn't really show up if you setup the car right.
if you do the swap, make sure its a good clip. read my swap story if you want to know what the worst case scenario could be. its been really informative and educational though!
It is possible to swap one for that much...but it will be stock and you would have to do it yourself.
Engine set = 2000
starter kit from HT = 100
stock intercooler and piping (if lucky) = 150
Maxima exedy clutch 125 off eBay
Down pipe from HT = 125
Electric fan from HT= 100
misc hoses, wires, oil and other shiz = 200
Thats like bare bones...nothing else...and if there are no problems with your swap...and you will be doing it yourself...oh yeah and you have to have all the tools too hahahaha
But it is possible...just ask yourself do i want too fart around with my swap, have it all stock and maybe fu*k it up...or save an extra 2500 bucks to do it right one time and have a kick ass car?
Laters
Engine set = 2000
starter kit from HT = 100
stock intercooler and piping (if lucky) = 150
Maxima exedy clutch 125 off eBay
Down pipe from HT = 125
Electric fan from HT= 100
misc hoses, wires, oil and other shiz = 200
Thats like bare bones...nothing else...and if there are no problems with your swap...and you will be doing it yourself...oh yeah and you have to have all the tools too hahahaha
But it is possible...just ask yourself do i want too fart around with my swap, have it all stock and maybe fu*k it up...or save an extra 2500 bucks to do it right one time and have a kick ass car?
Laters
hey even though my swap took forever and ruined my life, i've learned more about cars than ever before. Its all a trade-off. I personally feel way better about the car with the fact that I did it all myself with a lot of help from friends. Its much more satisfying to drive it knowing that you put in the time and effort to make it work.
I understand where you’re coming from, I have always worked on cars myself but I have had BIG trouble converting NA cars to turbo. In the end I have a shop that can do it. I may just let them get a nice clean little sr, maybe chip in the extra bucks for a blacktop, I don’t know. You guys think i should redtop of blacktop it?
Well im finishing up on my sr20 swap...I did it myself cause i trust myself in working on my car...yeah i trust some shops here in hawaii but i rather know how everything goes together and works...so that in the long run if it were to break then i would be able to fix it and not take it back to the shop. Granted i said that it might be better for the person that doesnt know too much about cars...which there is alot of them guys in hawaii...hey i admit i was one of them till i picked up a wrench and started stripping cars at the local yards.
Honestly i would tell you if you dont feel comfortable dealing with swapping a na to a turbo then go with a garage that knows there shiet. If you think you can do it yourself cause it isnt that hard...do it yourself cause youll learn alot from it...give yourself a down time of 2 weeks because you will run into problems.
About getting a black top and red top...its just preference...are you going to try getting a recondition car permit? It really depends on the age of your project car. i believe its law that you cant put in a older engine in a newer car...hahahaha but i going too. Black and red tops are basicly the same just one is newer...but both i think has the most potential with the high port design.
Hope that helps
Raven
Honestly i would tell you if you dont feel comfortable dealing with swapping a na to a turbo then go with a garage that knows there shiet. If you think you can do it yourself cause it isnt that hard...do it yourself cause youll learn alot from it...give yourself a down time of 2 weeks because you will run into problems.
About getting a black top and red top...its just preference...are you going to try getting a recondition car permit? It really depends on the age of your project car. i believe its law that you cant put in a older engine in a newer car...hahahaha but i going too. Black and red tops are basicly the same just one is newer...but both i think has the most potential with the high port design.
Hope that helps
Raven
Well, if everything works out and I get my sr20 down the road I plan to install it myself. It will take me more than 2 weeks but this isn't my daily driver. From what I've read, if you don't run into too many problems it shouldn't be real hard. I don't think everyone should try it but I think it will be a good learning experience for me wether I run into problems or not. Just have to be patient and read up on the swap beforehand.
I'd say do it yourself and put the extra $1k you'll save back into the car for all the upgrades you'll need, pump, IC, etc..
I'd say do it yourself and put the extra $1k you'll save back into the car for all the upgrades you'll need, pump, IC, etc..
Whoa there he's not building a drag/drift car, he's just doing a bare minimum swap. These are the essentials:240Andrew said:
1. S13 Intercooler Kit $750.00 - DON'T NEED (USE SIDE MOUNT)
2. S13 Hot IC pipe for Greddy IC kit $ 90.00 - DON'T NEED
3. S13 Greddy 3” Downpipe $ 175.00
4. ACT Street clutch disk, pressure plate $ 325.00
5. Throw out bearing $ 30.00
6. Blow Off Valve (Greddy, Blitz, etc) $ 200.00 - DON'T NEED
7. Walbro in tank fuel pump, hi flow $ 120.00
8. Misc Hoses, Fluids, etc $ 100.00
9. 3" Test Pipe $ 60.00
10. 3" Apexi N1 catback $ 450.00
11. Battery Relocation Kit $ 60.00 - DON'T NEED
12. Joe P MBC $ 50.00 - DON'T NEED
13. Boost Gauge/Air Fuel gauge $ 175.00
14. 14" Electric Fan 3000cfm $ 150.00 - DON'T NEED (USE STOCK FAN)
15. Filter/adaptor $50.00
With this setup you will have a pretty much stock sr20det which is how you should run it WHILE BREAKING IT IN. You can do the other stuff once you determine the motor is reliable :thumbsup
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