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A little feedback about RB's and handling

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5K views 31 replies 16 participants last post by  reckless13  
#1 ·
I know its been a topic of the past about how the RB motors affect the handing and balance of a 240sx. The common answers ive seen has aways been "i cant tell the difference" or "it hardly changes the hadling." The fact of the matter is that putting an RB in a 240 (S13 chassis discussed here) does have a significant effect on the handlin and balance of the car and even more so, the feel of the car. There are significant changes in both grip and drift dynamics vs a SR or KA powered car. I am an an active track drifter and i engage in grip driving every now an then on the street. Ive done both things with KA, SR and RB powered cars but feel free to give input on the topic.

The mechanics:
There are two key differences between a KA/SR powered S13 and an RB powered S13. One factor being weight, the second and most critical, where that weight is located. SR/KA motors allow the placement of the motor to be almost entirely behind or just inline with axis of the front wheels. In newer performance FR cars its all about "Front Midship" which places the motor behind the front wheel axis of the car, hence the term "midship." found on cars like the 350z, G35 etc.. Front/Rear weight distribution greatly affects the nature of a cars handling. 50/50 arguably the best. This is where the RB comes in. No matter what mount kit you have for the RB, the position of the motor in terms of its longitudinal position, is limited by the firewall. Most kits aim to place the motor as far back as possiblem which is good, but 6cylinders not only means more pistons, but more length. The lengths of RB motors is roughly 50% longer than KA.SR motors. This length results in weight in position in front of the front wheel axis. Of course, in combination, with the added weight of the RB motors (RB25's are estimated 180lbs heavier than a KA, motor and tranny combined according to SCC). So instead of a, say 52/48 split, now we have a 55/45 split. Yes some of the weight does come from the beefy transmissoin of the RB25's but id say RB transmisssoins(NOT GTR) are hardly more than 40lbs greater than KA/SR/RB20 transmiossions. Overall more weight, and more of that weight over the front wheel axis, results in more initial load on the front tires of the car.

The dynamics:
So what does all this mean? So what if we're a little front heavy? I was running a stock KA in my car for quite some time and did a fair amount of track drifting at Drift Day events. I swapped in an R34 NEO RB25 not too long ago and have been to the same tracks with the new motor and the same suspension setup, a world of difference. Jumping to grip driving for a second, you can FEEL the front weight driving. steering response is slightly hindered, also the car is slower to turn in. A Down hill clover leaf results in increased understeer at the limit (expected). Up hill clover leaves however offered a noticable increase in cornering stability.
The real changes come while drifting. You have to muscle the car around the track, really man handle the car to get it to do what you want. In comparison with the KA or SR powered cars, they are more balanced and easier to manuver. The car felt slightly less predictable in switch backs. Perhaps the most annoying thing was the car's tendancy to dive into the apex early, even with the extra power and speed, "pushing" towrds the apex in abnormal way.

The solution:
Suspesion Tuning. Wheel/tire selection, spring preloads, camber and toe angle. everything. To compesate for the extra weight, a slightly stiffer spring rate up front may be advisable, also running a smaller stagger for tire size. ie 235/245 insdead of a 225/245. You may want to play around with front tire sizes and compunds to find the setup that works for you. I was planning to modify the firewall and move the motor back 6-7 inches but formula D rules do not allow firewall modification so that plan is scrapped. In all, by no means do RB's make 240's handle bad, but they do offere a significand change in handling charactersitics. Maybe some of you who have drivin EVO's and STi's can better relate to what i mean.

I havent posted on the forms for a while so just thought id give a more clear contribution to the subject of RB's and handling in S13 chasiss, input and feedback are always welcome. This is just my personal experience having drivin a number of KA/SR/RB 240's.
 
#3 ·
I agree with you to a certain degree yes it changes the weight balance but also it is really only noticeable in the s13 chassis imo. Here is why, those cars already have a lot more front end flex than the s14 chassis, when you put the rb into the s14 chassis your really cant feel the difference at all, it really only shows up occasionaly and usually it is right at the edge of the handling envelope and it is also eccentuated by driver error. Now im not saying you dont know how to drive, deffinately not what im trying to say. Im just saying in the s14 chassis its almost non existant. To fix this problem though is 2 easy things that you can do besides resetting your suspension settings.

1. Stitch weld the entire chassis up but at the very least the engine bay (especially on s13 chassis because of the bad front end flex they have compared to the s14 chassis)

2. Put a full cage in it this will help a whole hell of a lot towards stiffening the chassis more and ridding the car of understeer.

Now those two things are only going to go so far though as to remedying the problem. You will have to mess with the suspension less on the s14 chassis no matter what you do to the s13. Its just the dynamics of that chassis, suspension setup and chassis rigidity on the s13 is much more important than on the s14 because the s13's handling characteristics are slightly inferior to begin with compared to the s14. But thats not saying that you wont have to do anything to the s14 to make it feel right but it just takes less work. The s13 can handle beutifully with an rb in it, you just have to take the time and really care about ride height adjustment, brake balance, camber and toe settings as well as carefull thought about what sway bar to run in conjunction with what spring rates, then you need to play with the rebound and compression if you can on your coilovers. If you tweak enough bit by bit you can really dial the car to whatever your preference is. It will just take a little longer on the s13 as it is more understeer happy to begin with.
 
#6 ·
try stitch welding up the engine bay if not the whole chassis on the s14 it should completely rid it of all understeering tendancys if you have your spring rates set right. But i know you prolly dont want to pull the motor again rad lol. But ya you can feel a lil more heaviness but it doesnt really affect anything like it does on an s13 its just the damn front end flex those chassis have.
 
#8 ·
having owned an rb s13 and an rb s14 im gonna say this, the s13 chassis is trash compared to the s14.
the s14 is superior in every way, stiffer ballanced and much more agile.
while the motor might change the weight ballance of the car a good driver will be able to compensate for it and honestly i perfer a bit more weight up front now...cars with a 4 up front feel a bit strange.
as long as you have a well ballanced suspention setup the car should respond as you want it to...
on my car ive got the following suspention bits:
nismo power brace
solid subframe and differential
full urathane front and rear bushings
new tierods and ball joints
ST sways front and rear
ats deftforce 2 way lsd
tokico dspec shocks
eibach prokit
cusco strut tower bars front and rear
car is easily tossable...and loads of fun to drive.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Great thread xracer. I agree like every one else the s13 you can feel a big differance. but I own an s14 and ofcourse you can feel the wieght but the handleing is not effected much at all. I acually like the extra wight up front as well, you could use it to your adavntage while drifting. it works great for drag racing.

"Yes, it is more weight, around 150lbs more for a rb25 swap. the weight isnt important tho, its the weight shift. it really depends on engine/transmission and how you mount it (i.e. crossmember or aftermarket mounts), but realistically your looking at 2-3% overall weight shift. if you look at the numbers in a 3000lb car thats only a 60-90lb shift forward. just to put that in perspective, 12 gallons of gas weighs roughly 100lbs so there is more of a shift between a full and empty tank, than a RB swap. IT DOES NOT DESTROY THE WEIGHT BALANCE OF THE CAR" I got this from RBoosted.com
 
#12 ·
just to correct one little thing in your post, while you may think that more weight up front in drag racing is good its the exact opposite for rwd, now dont get me wrong you need at least enough to keep the front end on the ground all the way through the quarter, but with a rwd car the weight shifts to the rear on launch and the more weight you have up front the less traction you will have when you need it most. Now its not a problem with the rb its still plenty light enough im just speaking about a general concept. Now if it was a fwd car you would want the most resonable amount of weight you could get over the front wheels to give you good traction and drive.:thumbsup
 
#15 ·
Ok wow im inspired!!!
First off everyone is making good points but i think some key issues have been missed.
1. Yes adding more weight up front is going to create havoc on your current setup. The anwser? Well you corner weight the car. This invloves having your spring setup adjustable. This is the real racing purpose behind coil overs. Like earlier when it was mentioned that you can increase your front spring rate, this is similar. Increasing your spring weight is a good start but by no means a remedy. For apropriate handling you need to tune your suspension. Once you have the spring rates in the correct area you would then put your car on individual scales and read the weight your car is giving at each corner. You want the left front and the right rear to add up to within 10 lbs or so of the right front and left rear. this puts the weight of your car in the center of your car. Thuse cancelling out the added weight you just put under your hood. Idealy you want your weights to add up to the same number but this is a very tricky feat that will take some luck and lots of practice.

2.When front wheel drive drag racers wanted to start going fast they had to add weight over the front axle to keep the wheels hooked. The idea was to have as much downward force as possible over the drive tires.

When Rear wheel drive cars launch they move all the enertia to the back over the drive wheels which is why a rear wheel drive car hooks better then a front wheel drive car. In drag racing you want your rear weights that are exerted over the rear tires to be equal also. If you look at a well done drag car the battery and other acessories are normally on the right rear of the car. This takes up for the added weight of the driver being on the left. When we raced our 10 second camaro we would meassure the gas so we always had the same weight and run 2 and 1/2 to 3 lbs less air in the right tire so that it would hook better since it didnt have as much weight on it. Another words putting more weight up front on a rear wheel drive car is useless the car will track strait with the front wheels in the air if it is setup correctly. More weight means your going slower. Look at a funny car and see how much weight is even close to the front axle. In a rear wheel drive your on a sea saw of sorts when the weight and force push down and back on your rear wheels you end up on your wheelie bar hoping that back halfed rear end you let your drunk buddy help you with is welded in stright.
 
#19 ·
My rb 240 handles damn near the same, but I did eliminate p/s, a/c, and lot's of extra weight..Im sure if I did a swap and kept everything, there would be more weight on the nose.
 
#21 ·
I have an rb20 s13. It does affect your handling like others have said, but it absolutley does not destroy it. Ive drifted at the track several times over the last couple of months. Every time i go my suspension/tire combo is set up completely different from the previous track day. im finally reaching the point were im really comfortable with the ride height and dampening. I have to change tire set up again due to track temps drastically dropping. I love the way my car feels, im an agressive driver, so when im teamed up with a kind nose heavy car it results in me initiating way early with tons of speed! I dont have to do any sort of weight transfer, by the time i steer into the corner and dump the clutch, the ass end is already swinging like a bat outta hell!
People who watch me drift dont understand it, i dont really know either, i just do it.
hopefully ill have vids of the amature comp i was at this weekend up soon.
 
#23 ·
no i think it would be sick to have the amazing n/a power that can be made out of honda engines. but im not gonna do it. if i was gonna do a crazy expensive swap it would be the TT 3.0L strait 6 from BMW

edit: but i can even afford coilovers... and to get my ka24de running so there will probably not be any swap from me anytime soon.
 
#28 ·
Great thread and great explanations. I've drifted an s13 rb20, a s13 rb25, ka's, and sr's. My opinoin on the RB's in s13's is that the car, as stated before, has to be properly tuned. When I drifted the RB20 it felt like biggest piece of shit car I've ever driven/drifted in my life. The car was increadibly poorly set up, clutch was bad, engine overheated, just a big piece of shit. The car did have some coilovers on it but the car still drifted horrible, I could feel the car weighing the front end down a lot. Now when I drifted the RB25 the car felt awesome, felt better then my ka (thats not saying much cause its a stock KA). The car had a lot of the same suspension as mine, JIC FLT-A2's, cusco 2-way, nismo power brace, toe arms, tie rods, sway bars etc etc and the car was tuned really well. When I drifted the car I didn't even feel the front weight at all, made me really consider going rb25 after driving it. I myself will probably be going SR but I will def not knock on the RB's, if the car is tuned properly they are a great engine for the car.
 
#31 ·
more weight up front means more/faster tire wear. But tire wear can't be too big of an issue if you building a D1 car. IMO If you want to do it right. Move the front strut towers foreward inside the engine bay even a SR or KA powerd car would benifit. but why when you can compensate with a good suspension setup. it will be stiffer than the OEM S13 after your done also you you kill two birds with one crazy mod. the car would also need to extend your steering shaft and hopefuly that whouldn't throw off the stock steering ratio.